oldguy

with a 4" lift in the front you are....

here's the deal with rotating the distributor. The rotor inside spins. Takes the spark from the coil that goes into the center of the cap and "distributes" it to each cylinder by points inside the cap. When you rotate it, you adjust the timing at which this spark is distributed and thus how early or late in the cylinder cycle the spark plug fires. The rotor rotates clockwise (i'm pretty sure but it's been a while since I've looked, YMMV) So by rotating the distributor housing clockwise you retard the timing. You DO NOT take the distributor out of the engine. You loosen up the pinch bolt at the bottom and then rotate the outer housing. The inside bits will stay still. If you rotate it counter clockwise it will advance the timing and give you a little more power. We're talking small amount here. Not like a quarter turn. More like 1/4-1/2" of rotation. It's a fine touch you get a feeling for. Some get it and some don't. You can verify this with a timing light with adjustable advance knob and some basic manual pages. Some of us do it by ear though.

while true... if this were happening it wouldn't be loosing 1" of coolant over "weeks" but over "day or days". More or less I'm inclined that he's got condensation in the exhaust, and a leaky intake manifold hose that's rotten from age.. (only because that's one of the harder ones to inspect and I'm sure he's checked the easy to see ones) If it was a cracked head or headgasket.. overheating and a pressurized cooling system usually result...

can you feel the groves with the back of your thumbnail? if not then take it to a machine shop.. ask them to micropolish this... it will prob be like $20-$30.. and it'll be shiney with just minimal scratches... then reinstall. It's rare the cam would get eaten like that since it's bore is aluminum the bore should wear much earlier than the cam. Probably a rod failure put alot of particles in the oil and someone drove on it a while. If you can feel the groves with your thumbnail... well then it'd make an awefully nice lamp...

I've actually seen a chain wear out on these cars several times... it's surprisingly not that "rare"

Pull up on the tab and they rock forward so people can get into the back... it lets them tilt forward a good way without going all the way through the adjustment to rock forward.

So.. a thread came across an OT board that I saw.. Worlds most beautiful garage's.. Some of these are serious man caves... Then in the middle of the first page.. I see this Just thought out of all those expensive classic's he's got there (note the marlboro f1 car in the back corner).. He's also got an 02... What good tastes this owner has Edit Link to other thread with some serious coin spent http://www.luxury4play.com/automotive/36568-worlds-most-beautiful-garages-exotics-insane-garage-picture-thread-50-pics.html?source=9593

that's a nice copy... to bad they don't have the NLA red/yellow/orange Recaro fabric or people would be buying them to cut up. You may find they have issues with the shoulder support and the door. Most cheapie seats I've bought like that are cheap. The bolsters around your theighs are flimsy and the material fades if it's out in sun.. quicker than most... those are pretty pricey so they maybe high class fake seats.. mine were cheaper than 300 each.. more like 400 for 2...

standard 2002 board interest... 30 people interested... 29 fall out once the price goes above $5 with free shipping.. 3 people then come out to critique how they would do it differently if they were building them or how it's not "original" if it doesn't have x feature.

the difficult part of making a 2002 dash in fiberglass/carbon fiber would be the tray on the right side. You'd either need a multi part mold which would put a parting line right where you didn't want it. or you'd have to make that "tray" zero deep and be a more a shelf. I'd thought about coating my cracked rotted dash in glass then using acetone to remove the foam and old dead dash from underneath. I think a fiberglass dash sprayed in wrinkle coat like a valve cover would look vintage enough and you'd never worry about it cracking.

surpisingly I've had extremely good luck with the cheap chineese vented rotors on ebay and the "sport" pads they come with. No cracks and have them on 3 cars with 60k on one set, 35k on one set, 85k on another. Held up surprisingly well.

Going over some of your pictures... The bearings in that were worn but not from starvation. The flek or two of damage.. if it didn't dig groves in the crank it was probably aluminum. #4 picture down shows issues with the alignment of the journals or a thrust issue. If that's #5 and he's running a heavy pressure plate clutch then it's thrust. If that's #1 then that block needs to be align honed. Your pistons are scuffing from inadequate clearance or to lean of a mixture. Can't see the burn pattern on top but run it looser next time. More than likely the shavings you found in the accusump were either cast iron boring bar chips from the machine work or aluminum pieces of the skirt. Highly doubtful the AN lines caused it. I've heard that for years and years and have never seen it. Could have been left over chips from the machining of the accusump or a used accusump. Needless this is why I don't aprove of them. To much crap to break. Check and see with a magnet if they're aluminum or steel. The ding on the rod doesn't matter unless it mushroomed out and removed sideclearance. touch it up with a belt sander and it's good to go. The grinding is for balancing. What's the advantage to the bmw ms bearing? holes vs slots?

depends on placement and type... Aftermarket ones have a long time to light off.. If you've got some type of airpump system on the car that's key in getting them to light off. A precat of a modern car maybe more helpfull and you could attach it right after the manifold and it would light off quick. I don't know if they make you perform the test warm or cold. If you can try the smog test warm with the cats all warmed up then go for it. Hot rod did an article showing most modern aftermarket cats take about 2-3HP out of an engine. They've come a long way.

While I'm sure carroll smith's books apply. 2 things need to happen so I can make a suggestion in which direction you need to move in. What tires do you have? And how big are the racetracks that this "race car" races at. You can't compare race cars to other race cars. The weight balance of a nascar road course car will be closer to a trans-am car and more like carroll smith's example than to an 02 race car. They are all RWD with motors in the front though. One is running giant slicks and 800hp and you maybe running soft DOT tires and 180hp. Hoosier DOT slicks or full on race slicks. Magazine after magazine has spewed 50/50 as where it should be and batteries should be moved to the trunk. The problem with this is that sometimes it doesn't make sense. When you brake sometimes you may want weight transfer. Some times you don't. Some people believe 02's are light enough that their suspension should be rigid and gokart like. Slap big tires on and no swaybars. IF you were running race slicks and in gt3 you're probably in this class. This car is horsepower limited. If you're running street tires then you're probably in the big swaybar, slightly softer spring. This car is traction limited. These two cars would run different weight balances. Best book on understanding this is "The racing & high-performance tire: using the tires to tune for grip and balance" by Paul Haney The examples are old but the knowledge still applies. To understand why you want your chassis to do something. You must understand the needs of the rubber and how to quantify if an improvement really improved anything.

Take total weight of car - weight of engine and gearbox. Aproximate center of each mass in car. IE. If you've got 2000 lbs at 56/44 that's 1120lbs up front and 880 rear. Or essentially 240lbs heavier in the front. Assuming the m10 engine weighs 225lbs (that's 185 from one page and 275 from a different page. your motor maybe lighter or not.. weigh it) This motor is actually placed almost right on the centerline of the front axle. So almost all of the weight is on the front wheels. So out of 1120 lbs probably 225 of it is motor. Take the wheel base length. Move 225 lbs back 3" and then recalculate the proportion between the two wheels. So say it was 60" between front and back. (which we know it's longer) Then if you moved it 3" back it would now be 57" back and 3" front. 3/60=.05 or 5% of the motors weight would be moved back. So assuming our 225lb motor. We'd move 225*.05= 11.25lbs backwards. So Think of it like 2 movers carrying a sofa with a big fat ass sitting on it. The location of the fat ass that is sitting on the sofa determines how much load each mover bears. I think you'll find that you won't be close to really moving any of that weight back any real meaningful amount. Maybe if you removed the engine completely you'd be close but the car wouldn't move under it's own power then. Back to the original more intensive question. Why do you want 50/50? Cause some magazine says so? What handling characteristics do you think will be solved by this change? Also you can throw some weight in the back of the car and see if the handling improves with the 50/50 balance just more weight. Moving the engine and gearbox back would help but not cure.

cutting springs on car + dremel = facepalm buy some aftermarket ones, please

ur kidding right? listen for valves touching the pistons? you think milling a head and using a regular head gasket is going to give you 30psi more? It would have to be on the surfacer all day. .010" isn't going to give you 30psi more. .060" may get you a little closer but you'll run out of head and valve seat soon. The most you could really surface off a head is about .5 in the ratio. Going from 9:1 to 9.5:1 isn't going to generate that boost. To the OP. compression tests can't be used to calculate the compression ratio. There's no correlation. Rather there's alot of factors that go into it. Camshaft selection is one of them. Warm vs Cold. Oil in cylinder vs not. etc etc. Compression tests should be used to compare the cylinders to each other. Assuming you've got a compression tester that is accurate. Meaning 180psi is really 180psi. Then you've got a warmed over motor with no real cam in it. my guess is that maxsil pistons were used with the stock cam. Your 32/36 will be fine. May try a richer main jet and see if you like it. It would be important to check the actual jets in the carb if you don't know. since you asked for an example. 12:1 motor with 300 regrind made 168psi. Same motor with a 304 schrick advanced 2 degrees made 156psi. The cam overlap at starting speeds cuts alot of compression down. Your motor has more compression. Lets race

It is a bolt in "roll bar". Anyone who puts cages in these mustangs says that floor is thin thin thin. You must tie them into the subframe connectors and cut holes in the floor. if you read the thread there's alot of "experts" talking about how he should have trail braked into the crest to blah blah blah.. he was just going to fast in a non race car.

I use this http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=95670 It has a tach pickup as well as a temp probe. You can catch them onsale for $20.

you should ask the seller. While CD's description of a long block is nice. It's generous. Usually at a minimum a long block has the head on it. Anything between the two ends is where most fall.

Just letting you know the $10 band clamp compressor at autozone will work great. Those cone compressors are generally used for very thin light rings that have little tension.

poor crackheads live where there's free hand outs quit being the home of every hippie liberal... and they'll move on.. I think there was a southpark episode about this...

although they refuse to admit it. Fat mat is roofing product sold in home depot. I've found they all get tary and sticky in some hot sun.

This piston squirter mod is for a horizontally opposed flat motor. It will not generate much if any extra oil in a M10 Here's why. The rod has a side clearance and a bearing clearance. You'll also notice the big end width is wider than the bearing width. This is for two reasons. One, this allows the rod bearing to be a proper width and the to give the crank shaft room to transition from the vertical counterweight to the horizontal rod journal via a nice rounded transition called a fillet. These fillets are important as they prevent stress risers and the crank from breaking. The rod bearing clearance is what keeps oil under pressure. Kind of like your thumb over the end of your hose. After the oil escapes out of the bearing clearance it is slung around and escapes out the side of the rod. Which brings us to rod side clearance. Some people wrongly believe this is a spec. It's a minimum value. The difference is on a spec if you have to much then you have a problem. You can have tons of rode side clearance and it won't hurt a thing. Some race motors run with 1/8" if they're running certain classes where this would be advantageous. It does not effect oil pressure at all. Side clearance was designed to "keep the rod centered" but some aluminum collars on the sides of the pin will also work. So whether you have .020" or .200" side clearance is a non pressurized area. There's more of a slinging effect. Now if you wanted to put a piston cooler on a m10 because you were convinced that you needed one. The best way would be to drill a hole through the rod and then through the bearing to tap pressure off of it. Many japanese sports cars come with this. The unique thing is that almost every aftermarket rod manufacturer dumps it later. So factory rod comes cooled. Aftermarket Crower, Eagle, Tomei, etc don't come piston cooled. They say it wasn't important anyway and more oil pressure is better for motors than more oil cooling. So if your fighting gravity, not really that great. Probably didn't need it anyway.

I got a timing chain for it this week that's all. I'm really slammed with school and work. My primary ride blew the rear end out so I've been fixing it instead. It's no real rush for me. I'll take pics when it's done.