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02for2

Solex
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  1. Hankook Tires has formed a new company - Laufenn Tires. Their G FIT AS all-season radials are available in multiple aspect ratios in both 13" and 14" sizes. Tire Rack has these starting at about $40 for the 13 inchers. This is a great option for those wanting to keep and use their stock wheels. cheers!
  2. For Sale - Center for OEM Steering Wheel If yours is tired, split or torn, this one will dramatically improve your car's interior. Price does NOT include shipping which will be quoted actual cost. Location: MN, USA
  3. We are having a Minnes02 Group get-together on Sat. 10/20 at the Gasthaus Bavarian Hunter ( http://www.gasthausbavarianhunter.com/ ) in Stillwater ( MAP - http://maps.google.com/maps?saddr=&daddr=+8390+Lofton+Avenue%2C+Stillwater+MN+55082&hl=en ). The Gasthaus is an excellent place, a decent drive, and has a large parking area. Several of us discussed this last weekend at Steve's BBQ. Anyway, I have discussed a group gathering with the restaurant and we would need a show of hands (That means Yea or Nay). We'll meet between 2:30 or 3:00pm 'til ..? The Minnes02 Group is a local group of 2002 and other vintage BMWs. We'd also like to invite some of our fellow vintage BMW owners from east-central Wisconsin to join us. Stillwater is only about 80 min. from Eau Claire, for instance. So please, let me know what your thoughts are. We'd love to get even one good Social Gathering in this year, and hope to see you there ! Cheers! jim
  4. OK... Silly question, but did you properly set the air gap between the Pertronix magnet wheel and the sensor? IIRC, the Pertronix has a VERY generous range to the Gap, so it's kinda difficult to get it wrong, still... It's also not impossible that the unit is simply faulty right out of the box. A friend had that happen to one he bought for his Europa several years back. Good Luck ! Cheers!
  5. Doing the E24 here ! Like the look Cheers!
  6. As mentioned, Ride Quality is VERY subjective. I am running the Korman Road Force kit - Bilstein HDs, H&R Springs and Suspension Techniques Sways with ALL Poly (Street, not Track Hard) Bushings - lowered the car 1"-1.25". To me, this is a perfect setup. But, having said that, as you can see by my Sig., I have, and have had, a lot of Sports Cars over most of my life (and they're not all listed). So I'm used to a little more taught suspension/ride, but HATE a Track ride on the Street. Everyone who's driven, or driven in, my 2002 says the ride is great... not too soft, but not a Bone-Rattler either. Something more to add to your considerations is what the general quality of the Roads are in the areas you most travel. I am up in the Snow Belt and we have maybe the worst general Road conditions in the Country... a patch, expansion joint or manhole virtually every 50 feet. NOTHING like the quality of roads I've driven down South, or out West, if I were driving on those roads, I might want it a little more taught, but as I said... it's all subjective. Cheers!
  7. Coil is located where the early cars are too. Tha later cars have the Coil on the P-side inner fender next to the Radiator. Cheers!
  8. I bet your Condenser wire is arcing to ground and shorting out the ignition, which is why everything works once the Condenser is hooked back up with the points. Wrap the Condenser Lead in electrical tape to isolate it, and see if that doesn't fix the issue. Cheers!
  9. @Napes... I totally believe that ! A Coil is a fairly simple and robust thing, and generally the last thing you suspect. But believe it or not, I have come across two cars in our local group in the past 6 mos. where, after exhausting every other possibility, it turned out to be bad Coils. Swapped the Coils out and these cars have run trouble-free since. So, you never know with these 40 y.o. cars. Cheers!
  10. Good Catch !! I was talking about the Bosch Black Coil alone (admittedly an assumption on my part), with no consideration for Ballast resistance or another Bosch Coil such as Blue (built-in resistance) or Red. Cheers!
  11. Easy enough to check the Coil using a DMM by measuring the resistance values. Set DMM to ohmmeter function and test Primary Winding by placing test probes to each of the terminals on the coil (+/-). You want to see values between 0.4Ω - 0.6Ω. Now check Secondary Winding by placing test probes on the + terminal and the Center terminal. Look for values between 5.0kΩ - 7.2kΩ. If you get these values, coil is most likely good. If not, coil is definitely bad. You could get these values and still have a faulty coil, but this would be due to internal shorting which would not become apparent until the coil reached (exceeded) normal operating temperature in which case, the engine would falter/stop. Check Coil temperature after fully warmed up - s/b warm to the touch but not HOT. But, this failure would not affect a cold start. Cheers!
  12. @justin: Seems you're getting just a little disrespectful here so it's time for me to let it go and move to other topics. Use whatever Brake Hoses you're comfortable with, for whatever reason. Cheers!
  13. @tjones: God... I almost forgot about that old brown aviation sealant - that is really nasty to try and remove !! One trick I use to clean up the mating surfaces is to use a cheap $0.15 bakelite (probably Nylon now) blank switchplate available from Loews, Home Depot, Hardware stores, etc. Snapping them in two gives a very sharp edge and since they are much softer than the aluminum mating surfaces, you can use a lot of force scraping the gasket off with no risk of marring the surface. Once the edge goes away, you simply snap off a clean new edge. I always have a couple in the tool chest just for this purpose. Cheers!


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