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peterman

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About peterman

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  1. Hi guys, I am getting ready to send suspension components out to powder coat and my control arms look like hell. Looking for a new/used but good condition set. Thanks, Pete
  2. It looks like your tie rods are Delrin or is it brushed paint? If Delrin, I hope just for mock up.
  3. The replacement nose I have for my Euro car is a late model big bumper nose. So it had the big square holes cut out of it. I welded them up, so I need the euro bumper slot size (height and width). Their location off the bottom chin would also be helpful. Would anybody mind running out with a tape measure and putting up a few pictures of the measurements of the slots? It would be greatly appreciated. Happy 4th! Pete
  4. Thanks, Mike. The sub-frame is square to the chassis. The only thing bolted to the chassis is the sub-frame so no hubcap check possible. I used the dimensions in the factory book to determine that. The nose is a used nose that I am in the process of putting on the bare chassis. I will be squaring it up with the fenders when they get here. Is the drive side hook seems to be a different shape than the passenger side. Which one is the correct shape? Thanks, Pete
  5. How close should the tow hooks be to the nose clip? Driver side seems to be bent up making it way too close. Passenger side seems to be ok but still too close??? Anybody have similar pictures they can share so I can get a good sense of location? This car has been apart for way too long. Thanks, Pete Sent from my SM-G935V using Tapatalk
  6. You can get it all through McMaster Carr. www.Mcmaster.com Quite possibly one of the best online hardware stores in existence.
  7. They are not specialty washers, but thrust bearings. the thrust bearing goes between two flat washers. One on each side of the lever.
  8. Thanks, guys. It's certainly not easy. Doug, Fill the void is a great way of putting it. He will never be replaced but we will rescue again to help us and help another dog without a home. I did take a metal shaping class which probably shot me forward quite a bit in just the creative process of using what you have to get things done. The instructors didn't use crazy expensive equipment although they had it. They made a lot of their own tools out of scrap metal, welded pieces, wood, modified pliers, etc. Just seeing that ingenuity alone helped out so much in my own process.
  9. A question was posed to me once a few years ago: If you could fly, be invisible, teleport, be a billionaire, or have your dog live as long as you, which would you choose? I’d choose my dog every day of the week. There is something so emotionally childish about losing a dog. Especially one that you don’t really consider a dog, but a true, full, meaningful part of your life. Almost more than a family member, more like an extension of yourself. Not to be political, but I always wondered how you could take a soldier’s dog, one who probably saved his/her life countless times, at the end of a soldiers tour. You want to guarantee PTSD? That’s one way to do it. I don’t care how old you are, how tough you are, if you have a bond with a dog, your reason, acceptance, and composure are reduced to toddler levels when they go. On December 7th we lost our beloved shop manager, Poncho. It was a day I always knew was coming, but one that I knew I would never be ready for. Every night in the garage I would take a few minutes from working and sit on the floor. Poncho would wander over and lie down on my lap, rolling over to sniff my apron or paw at my chest for belly rubs. I knew that when he left us I didn’t want to be able to say “I never knew how good we had it”. I took these little breaks on the floor every day so to remind myself that I knew exactly how good we had it. We had the best dog ever. The whole neighborhood knew him. The other dogs, the three walking ladies we’d see every morning, the kids that would run up to hug him. He was never on a leash. He stopped at the curb and waited for me to cross the street. He’d wait till I said “go say hi” (when he could hear) to run up to other dogs. He was a champ. Loved by all. Losing him has been a part of life that really truly sucks. The only good that I can see coming from it is the ability to rescue another. We have taken a few months to get ourselves together with the new baby, but we plan on rescuing one or two boxers in the fall time frame. Adopt, don’t shop. And not just puppies, old dogs need homes, too. Poncho loved steak and he got plenty of it in his old age. So instead of cheers to Poncho, eat a good steak. That's what he would have wanted. But have a beer with the steak, too. When I left off last, I was stripping down the driver side door. I finished pulling the paint and layers upon layers of Bondo to find a clearly damaged door… This car just keeps giving. There was a line about mid-height that extended the length of the door. It seems as though it was a glancing blow by a car backing out of an adjacent parking spot. Pulling all the Bondo left me with an intact but badly oil canned door. I worked on the low spots that I could, and after getting them up, I noticed the oil canning wasn’t getting any better. I tried my hand with a small propane torch, but it wasn’t hot enough to get the metal to shrinking status. I picked up an oxy-acetylene setup and was able to put some tension back in the door skin. The door is still not perfectly smooth, in fact it’s a long way from it, but I am headed in the right direction. I will work on getting it as close as I can, but if I go for perfection, I’ll never get to drive the car. The first video shows the door and all the oil canning prior to heating with the torch. The second video pretty clearly shows where I shrunk the metal with the torch to tighten up the door skin. The line can be seen in the both videos pictures just above my middle and ring finger. I did some work on the nose as well. I thought it was an early nose because of the bumper holes being the slots and not the big squares for the later modes, but I was wrong. Somebody jogged the metal and spot welded a patch over the square cutout then Bondo’d the hell out of it. I ended up cutting it out and rolling a new patch panel on the English wheel. I filed the patch panel to have as close as a line on line fit as I could. I practiced a little fusion welding (no filler just the TIG torch) then went at the patch panel. It came out ok. There were areas where I needed to use filler and other areas where the fusion welding went well. The hardest part was making sure it contours were saved after welding... I'd be lying if I said it looked great, but I'll give it a 6 out of 10. Not sure why I left the little part of the slot open. That was foolish on my part. I will close that up. I had to do some hammer and dolly work. It will require a little body filler but hopefully not too much. I'm on the hunt for more body hammers, especially fender hammers that can let me get into some tight places I can't reach with my current set. I started sanding the nose above the kidneys to get to bare metal and wouldn’t you know! More Bondo! I guess they rear ended something or something backed into them because there were pretty heavy dents. After getting it back down to bare metal out came the hammer and dolly. There was a lot of heavy strikes in this area to get it back into shape. It didn’t take too long to get it pretty close to good. It also looks like they drilled holes in the metal to shove the Bondo through so they had some mechanical grip. Why wouldn’t the previous owner/repair shop spend the 30 minutes with a hammer and dolly and use just a skim of body filler? Below the kidneys? More dents and Bondo. It’s pretty tiring finding all this damage. I still have another square bumper hole to fill and the dents to pull on the bottom of the nose, but hopefully I can get that back on the car soon. I am on the hunt for a pair of good fenders. From what I’ve read, the BMW fenders have lost some of their quality over the years and I may be just as well getting aftermarket ones for a fraction of the price. Hug those pups. Give them some steak. And love them more than you ever thought you could when they get old.
  10. Jim, you are right about Jerry Callo. It's a great scene. I'll send details of the new addition. I am not. I had to look it up because I didn't know what it was. That looks like one heck of a project!
  11. I'm Jerry Callo! You will all be happy to know that Shop Manager Poncho turned 98 last March and is still kicking, as well. Skip to the picture of Shop Manager Poncho If you want to get right into the build updates. But I had some pretty great distractions. I was hell-bent on not being dormant on the FAQ for this long, but it happened. Life happened. It's still happening! 15 whole months without a blog entry. Work on the '02 has not stopped. However we did get into some other things during those months. But first - Benchmark abrasives is running a promo for flap discs. https://benchmarkabrasives.com/collections/flap-discs/products/4-1-2-x-7-8-t29-zirconia-high-density-flap-disc-mixed-grit-10-pack promo code: FREEMIX Just pay for shipping. Discs came in 2 days. 10 discs for 10 bucks. Anyone buying flap discs knows this is a great deal. The distractions from the '02: In September 2017 I rode my first dirtbike. Instantly hooked. 4 days later I bought my first dirt bike. 2006 Honda CRF450X. Still hooked. Quite possibly the most fun I have ever had. This took up most of my weekends, so work on the BMW slowed. That October we decided to trade in the Abarth while it was still worth something and get something that is utilitarian and safe for a growing family. We ended up with a Colorado Z71 Duramax Diesel – to haul the dirt bike of course! (and trailers full of cars). So far I have 11,000 miles averaging 27mpg doing both. Great buy, most fuel efficient car we own and pretty comfy. Last November I took a metal shaping class with Robert McCartney of McCartney Paint and Customs and another metal shaper, Pat Brubaker who is out of the mid-West. Robert's shop is in Southern Maryland and runs a class every year. It wasn't cheap but it was some of the best education I have received in a long time. These guys are incredibly skilled and talented. I hammered, rolled and bent up a lower patch for a driver side fender. I liken it coding. The immense logic is what is confusing. The difficulty is in its simplicity. It took me 2 days to make the panel. The instructors said it would take them just a few hours. July 2018 – picked up a Porsche 356, Pre-A. Wait, what? Yup. And it's pretty much complete. It was outside for the last 30 years well wrapped under tarps, but now its in a nice dry garage, up on stands. Floor needs to be redone and a bunch more, but this project does not get touched until the '02 is registered and on the road. This is my way of ensuring I do not have 2, half done projects and no money. It has also been a direct motivator to keep moving on the '02. October 7th, 2018 I became a dad! She is awesome and perfect and will be a great shop assistant, President, F1 Champ, MotoCross Champ, plumber, electrician, welder, CEO, accountant, or whatever else she wants to be. I. Am. Stoked. I picked up some extra tools in that time as well. I found a Harbor freight English wheel on craigslist for 200 bucks. That was well worth the money. That has made metal shaping so much easier. The anvils were not machined super smooth but they do seem to be true. I took them to work and buffed out the rolling surfaces to a semi mirror finish. 4130 is tough steel, so the buffing took quite a while. This makes working with metal much easier and the finish much nicer. It makes the panel closer to paintable right off the bat because I'm not stuck trying to planish out all the little marks from the manual and hammer bends. I also picked up an Everlast 185DV AC/DC TIG welder from Home Depot. They carry them online. I have the Home Depot credit card so I bought it with a few other things and got 24 months 0% financing. I also asked them to match the sale price on the Everlast website and they did. So I got it shipped to my local HD for free, and it even came with a pedal, which is a rare win, apparently. I got a great No. 2 Arbor press from a a guy near Baltimore and a bunch of ball peen hammers and big chunks of steel both stainless and carbon. I've been using it all. On to the build updates! I'll try to detail out the progress on the '02 without too much lost information. Last post was about the driver side rear quarter patch panel and the new shop. In my haste to do more visual body work, I put off replacing the inner fender on the rear driver side wheel well. That was a really poor decision. It was very difficult to fit and weld in the inner fender once the outer fender was already in place. This took a lot of extra time and was, honestly, a deterrent for getting in the garage. I did finally get it welded in, and with pretty good results, but it wasn't easy, or fun. Work inside out, not outside in. Once that was done I moved back to the front of the car and welded the upper firewall back in. I filled a few holes in it, welded it back in, and moved on. I cut off some metal on the support bracket that goes from the upper firewall back to the heater box cut away, so that had to be replaced as well. Next up was round two on my first repair, the lower part of the passenger inner wing. I cut out my original, flux core repair panel along with my homemade frame rail. I had a new frame rail from W&N so I decided to use it. I positioned my new frame rail per factory specs and tried to fit up my sub frame to double check. No good. Aligning pins didn't line up. I knew that the car had been in an accident or three, so I wasn't too surprised. The front sub frame had damage, but its pretty stout, so I didn't think it was warped. A closer look however proved that it had racked about a 1/4”. which is quite a bit. Grice was nice enough to pull one out of his stash for me. A quick check with the new, color matching sub frame proved a good fit. Frame rail aligned, subframe holding square, I started plug welding the frame rail to the passenger floor pan. Once that was in I moved to mocking up a patch panel for the inner wing. First out of cardboard, then transferring the rough template to 18 gauge sheet steel. I cut it out roughly with an angle grinder, then did more detailed work with my throat-less shear. Fit up was difficult because there were a lot of compound curves in this lower area. The English wheel proved to be a good investment. Trimming and fitting took a long time. I rolled in a structural feature to match (somewhat) the factory look with my bead roller. I filed down the patch panel to get pretty close to a line on line fitment, then trimmed the bottom and added 1/4” holes for plug welds. I had an old 1/4” drill bit so I ground the tip flat. I used this to clean out the paint under the hole for the plug weld. This helped ensure I had no contaminants in the weld. The panel was then welded in and welds ground smooth where possible. Thankfully, that was the last of the structural repairs. Next was to fit up the nose. In order to do that, I wanted to get the fenders and doors on to make sure it will all line up before anything is welded in. I put on the fenders that Jim (jgerock) gave me and put on the doors. Initial fitment looked pretty good. There is something funky going on on the passenger side. I'm hoping it's a door hanging adjustment. Bottom of fender collides with door when opening it. More investigation required. There was a huge dent in the driver door that I forgot about. I ended up bringing it down to bare metal and used some heat to get 80 percent of it out, I made a weld on slide hammer and pulled as much of the rest out as I could. Looks pretty good. Will need to do some Bondo work to get it right. There was a small crack near the top of the door, where another dent was. I hammered out the dent then TIG'd up the crack. Smallest tungsten I have is 3/32”. 1/16" would have been better, as I likely wouldn't have burned in the undercut at the edge. The door skin was covered in Bondo and was still pretty warped. I decided to pull the paint on the door. I am using paint stripper on the door skin. If I keep it away from seams and holes I should be able to eliminate any residue issues when it comes to paint. I found that after pulling the Bondo, the door had a better shape. I'm not sure why. It still needs working but its a start. A shrinking disk will be useful, or a terrible idea. Work continues!
  12. Dave, Just sent you a PM. Thanks, Pete


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