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  1. yes 25mm2 is cross section area and 10mm OD includes insulation. 0.03 (single coppper strand) X 322 (strands) = 9.66mm diameter 9.66-10mm OD = 0.34mm pvc insulation for thin wall automotive cables.
  2. The first number is no of wire strands and strand thickness; welding and other home type cables has less for same diameter cable and very different sheeth not designed for automotive use. The thick strands fracture with vibration these can easily peirce through its sheeth causing premature failure for same reason i avoid using old cables. Going by wire guage doesn't tell you the info you need. The correct cable should be min 322/0.30 25mm², 10.0mm OD, 170A Recommended 539/0.30 40mm², 12.7mm OD, 300A ALWAYS put inline fuse in NEAR battery. The fuse should be smallest you can get away with with all electrics on (cold start wipers lights heater everything on full) Negative cable should be identical to power cable in size with shortest path to body as possible. Always add smaller gauge wire for local grounds for switch gear, lights ect.. nothing wrong with too many grounds.
  3. Even with surcharge its a great deal, infact im going to get one for myself https://www.linwar.com/e10_134_31105_45.html
  4. Many people tried swapping LDH and RHD MC as cheap way out but its false economny. You cannot use LHD MC on RHD or other way around for a number of reasons: stroke length inside is different, ports are get covered at rest therefore front-rear bias changes, pedal ratio and pedal feel is worse brakes tend to stick when released and need multiple jabs to stop dragging... Some people made it work ok by adding restrictors, bias valves different brake material ect... and i tried these and its nowhere near ok imho and costs far more than correct MC costs new or refurb.
  5. Best carb cleaning method i use is water based degreaser or baking soda and kettle of hot water, leave in bucket over night. Next day rinse with hot water and microfibre towel then waste is non-hazardous with no smelly fumes. Alternatively after worse debris is off sneak them into your empty dishwasher. Vapour blasting is essentially is quicker version. Never use any acid because it can continue eat away at bronze and alloy even after rinsed and dried, will also stain quicker afterwards with modern petrol.
  6. The silent jobs first then check timing, condensor with test light/multimeter and take air filter off and look down at throttle body butterfly. Then engine needs to be running at operating temp to go any further to diagnose or setup its impossible otherwise were just guessing here and there.
  7. Have you got engine upto temp yet or just cold start? Not much adjustment apart from idle mix screw and idle speed screw so follow steps above to rule out the common faults. Idle mix screw halfway out and idle speed all the way in and slowly undo until it starts. High idle is either timing too advanced, butterfly not closing fully at rest and vacuum leaks. If no better then check fuel float level and fuel pressure near carb as possible with a suitable fuel pressure gauge. If there is a problem work backwards down the fuel line towards the tank to find it, blocked breather at fuel filler neck also causes similar choke like problem. The last resort would be strip the carb and double checking jet sizes and clean everything up, thankfully they are easiest carb to rebuild at home without special tools. Remember never use gasket scraper on mating faces or wire to poke down the jets.
  8. I presume 1602 has single carb, I need to know exact model and version of your carb to help further as each have slight but critical differences in set up. 1st thing make sure your timing is correct at static your marks line up as per manual. Check condensor on dizzy haynes manual explains how to check this, replace if in doubt so many people overlook this cheap part but weak one will cause issues long before it fails with fuel like symptoms. 2. check vacuum leaks however it runs with choke spray some brake and clutch give good 10secs between each squirt to make sure. If find leaks on hoses replace them, on carb itself some normal bearing grease to temp plug the leak will help you double make sure if multiple leaks are found. 3. make sure linkages are not too tight especially choke and throttle. The choke cable should be fully off with the knob 1-2mm from the base 4. check butterfly fully closes, if it doesn't not enough vacuum to pull fuel through hence full choke needed.
  9. To be honest all tandem m/c and twin servo brake setups are frustrating to bleed and get a good pedal thats firm and high. 5l + of brake fluid used in bleeding a dry system it can be that bad so don't worry too much. Discard first 2-3l then if fluid is clean with just air bubbles you can re-use if left to stand over night. There is a few techniques Rear brake shoes adjusted so handbrake is on hard by 4 clicks on both sides With or without pressure bleeder, jack axle your bleeding up high as possible, bleed master cylinder by cracking the brake unions, then do same with the both brake servos bottom then top. Next first front left then right caliper nipple bottom middle then top on caliper. Then rear (chasing the air bubbles out in sections from rather than pushing them all the way down the lines to rears first) Than second time around do everything opposite way round ie correct way as per manual start from rear than front calipers top middle the bottom. If for whatever reason you keep getting air from servos, remove breather and check for oil and one way valve condition. Try running engine whilst bleeding if its easier its working if no change you have air leak m/c servo side and don't discount the hoses and pipes. Also check MC rod is not pushed in too far at rest because it will cover or block ports inside it doesnt take much travel to do this. Another reason i noticed some have Tee piece plumbed in upside down this can be bled by cracking the unions open or re-install correct way with feed line going in from bottom. Not the side or top which creates air trap. If you use pressure bleeder keep low sub 5psi. Any more it pushes seals wrong way (strip and rebuild to fix) or adds air into the fluid before it the master cylinder. Hope that helps i find the above a reliable method.
  10. Unless rear strut brace is bolted through the boot floor box section its free to move in all directions most importantly up and down. Top of the shocks deflection can be simply measured with a long ruler, pipe anything rigid really by marking the distance between 2 fixed points then jacking up one corner at a time. Then hang a plub line from between middle of rear struts so line just touches the boot floor, jack a corner up again and see the gap move there is your flex. . Alloy flexes more in tension than steel and steel flexes more than cold rolled seamless tube used in certified roll cages, alloy brace = show brace.
  11. BEWARE refurbished units they are simply cleaned poorly with new rubber bits to make it look nice, yes BMW main dealer you included. Pastparts is only place I use or recommend who refurbishes hydraulics properly is by drilling out and resleeving so it has smooth internal bore and much much longer life without leaks. www.pastparts.co.uk
  12. Its great for cars that get used very rarely for corrosion protection. If you have problem and need to top up the rad, replace a hose ect your on the road you most likely end up putting water in then flushing then refilling or calling for a recovery. In the real world nothing cools better than distilled water and regular antifreeze. PS its not banned in racing or any series im aware off for safety, envrionmental or other reasons apart from sponsership.
  13. Work in shaded area and be comfortable, use stool, chair, foam cushions, long reach tools ect. Basically don't do yourself an injury manually doing something when an affordable tool is available.
  14. Have you fitted the angled bar supporting the platform to the gear box? because it seems whole lot is moving when it should be rigid to the gearbox 25111201238
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