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jmp

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About jmp

  • Birthday 11/03/1988

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  1. New brake master cylinder (https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=1621492&jsn=10421) New Centric brake shoes (https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=1626082&jsn=10417) New Raybestos brake pads (https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=298231&jsn=3) OEM engine compartment cowl drain tube (http://www.rogerstii.com/bmw-2002-engine-compartment-cowl-drain-hose/) Ireland Engineering front bushings (incomplete set, only the big ones) from this kit: http://www.iemotorsport.com/bmw/item/02frtbush.html Exhaust header to down-pipe gasket Shock spring compressors Sound-proofing roller thing (used for applying dynamat or similar) Fuel-injection type hose clamps (for 3/8" ID hose) * I have boxes for the Centric parts, but to save shipping space I'm planning on mailing everything together in a big box. If you want the Centric boxes included let me know. Clearing out space, so I'm only gonna sell these random things together. $150 (shipped) OBO. Contact me with any questions. Thanks, -Jonathan
  2. Everything's brand new. I bought these to replace my rear window seal, but was fortuitously rear ended, and ended up having the other driver's insurance company pay for a mechanic to do it. Anyway, all these parts are genuine OEM parts because I've had bad experiences with URO brand. Includes the seal, the moulding, the little plastic joint clip, a special windshield strip tool, and a furniture moving suction cup thing to lift the window out. If I remember correctly, this is just about all you need to replace the rear seal. Depending on which method you use to get the seal back on, you might also need some thin rope. Asking $175 shipped within the US (+additional shipping elsewhere). Message me with questions. Cheers, -Jonathan
  3. Yeah, the 1976 thing is a bummer. Ironic thing is I think the tailpipe emissions should be much better than when it was carbed, so anywhere without the OE requirement should be fine, but California is probably tricky.
  4. Thanks! I've put a lot of time and work into it. The price is definitely low by FAQ standards. I expected it'd sell for more like 8-9k, but I haven't had much luck with local craigslist, or even ebay so I reduced the price. If it doesn't sell in the next week It'll have to wait until August and I'll be a bit more ambitious with the price. Right now though I'd like to get it off my hands before I leave town for the summer.
  5. Up for sale is my 1976 BMW 2002 with Megasquirt EFI conversion, and lots of upgrades. I've owned this car for the past nine years. It's been extremely well cared for. It had 295,000 miles on the odometer when the odometer stopped working, and now is probably a little over 300k. Note, though, that most parts have been rebuilt or replaced at some point in its life (many of those since I've owned it) so the mileage on any given component is typically much less than that.More pictures here: https://inverted.earth/2002forsale/A few of the more significant upgrades over the past couple of years are:* Megasquirt EFI (fuel injection) conversion* distributorless electronic ignition (also programmable via megasquirt)* Recently replaced brake calipers, drums, rotors* Stainless steel brake lines* Bilstein Sport strut inserts, Bilstein HD shock absorbers* Optima red top battery (relocated to trunk)* Shock brace* New exhaust system (stainless steel header and down pipe, ANSA resonator and muffler)* Head rebuilt during Megasquirt conversion (<20,000 miles ago)* 65 Amp Bosch alternator* Larger BMW 318i radiator* Silicone coolant hoses* Electric fan* Freshly restored (blasted+ powder coated) E30 318i basketweave wheels* Brand new tires (0 miles)* Momo steering wheel* Custom center console* Refurbished trunk* New spare wheel + tire* Euro turn signals* New carpet* New front seats* Replaced many plastic bits, added sound deadening, etc for quieter ride* Too many more upgrades to list here, but see pictures, and ask questions for more details.All modifications have been extensively documented for maintainability.The car isn't perfect, and I'll do my best here to give a complete list of problems for full disclosure. The ones that can be photographed are included in the pictures. If you have any questions about something here, or want more pictures of something just let me know.* Four rust patches (two on the nose, one on the lower drivers side fender, and one in the spare wheel well). No other rust problems.* The idle is higher than I'd like (~2k) -- fixing would require tweaking start-up parameters on the Megasquirt to compensate for lower idle during cold starts. It consistently idles higher after warm starts for some reason. I've been meaning to deal with this but haven't gotten around to it.* I replaced the heater valve with a hardware store hose valve (means you need to turn a big red knob under the hood to adjust the heater. Easy to change back)* The cabin smells like gas while it's running. That's super common for these cars, but it's annoying none the less.* The tachometer doesn't work because the distributor was removed during the megasquirt upgrade. *** The odometer randomly stopped working a few years ago **** I'm currently working on designing and building a digital speedometer and tachometer for the 2002 -- using the original gauge faces (pictures here: https://inverted.earth/2002-digital-gauges/ ). I have a working prototype, but the design needs to be polished up. Whoever buys this car can have one for free once I finish that project -- aiming for finishing that this winter.I'm really sad to see it go, but it's just not financially practical for me to keep it right now. Please feel free to contact me with any questions, concerns, requests for more pictures, or to make an offer. I'd be happy to see it go to an FAQ'er!
  6. Thanks to the several people who corrected me I tried again. Turns out I just didn't pay enough attention. The code is a "Source Code", not a coupon code or whatever. I bought one too! Thanks again for the heads up!
  7. Looks like the code expired, unfortunately. Thanks for the heads up anyway!
  8. jmp

    jmp

  9. Huh, interesting. Oh well, I can modify the original one to fit, but it's sort of annoying that he got the wrong part.
  10. I recently had a body shop replace the rear end panel of my '76 2002, and when he finished he found that the "2002" emblem no longer fits. The little pins that hold it in are misaligned. The right and middle pins line up, but the left one on the original emblem is on the bottom-left, but the new panel has the hole on the top-left. What happened? I can only assume he used a panel from a different year, but as far as I can tell on realoem the emblem is the same model number for all years. Did he use a tail from a tii, or something?
  11. @conkitchen I had never heard of BaT before, but it looks great. I'm thinking of posting my car up there. Can I say that you referred me to the site? I think you get $100 if I do.


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