Is my Guibo to far gone for The Vintage

[2002#3]

Slight post diversion which might help someone with guiboitis and DMS*.

 

Here's how I do the DS-guibo-trans flange alignment.  I find this way to be much easier than trying to look for minuscule movements, wiggles, distortions, and waves of the guibo as it is turned by hand.  Not my invention - found it here in 2002FAQ Wonderland. 

 

The DS, guibo, and trans flange are in alignment when all of the following happen BEFORE the bolts are tightened:

• all guibo bolts (regardless of direction) are in place in the DS-guibo-trans flange continuum holes and their nuts are loosely attached,
• all bolts can slide easily in/out of their DS-guibo-flange continuum holes by only finger pressure, and
• all bolts can slide easily in/out at the same time, i.e., all are aligned, none bind regardless of how the guibo is turned.

If the aforementioned cannot be done, adjust the DS and guibo (and maybe even the transmission a little) (whatever it takes) until all bolts slide in/out freely at the same time and regardless of where and how the guibo is turned by hand.

 

Result:  DS, guibo, and trans output are aligned and guibo is neither distorted nor preloaded.  Just what you want.  OK to tighten.  

 

From Elan:

"...also, cue discussion about direction of the bolts. Curious to hear what people think now. I used to never see people have the bolts all going the same direction, now it's more common."

 

In case someone does not know...  All bolts can be installed in the same direction (preferably nuts-to-the-transmission) IF and only IF the 3 or 4 nuts or bolt heads that touch the guibo are held in place tightly and NOT TURNED AT ALL while their other ends are tightened.  Such action will help assure the guibo is not twisted, strained, squished, distorted, or abnormally preloaded.  

 

Larry

 

*Driveshaft Misalignment Syndrome

 

 

[jgerock]

Hate to write this, but anyone who is planning on taking an old car on a long trip should crawl under the car for a complete inspection - preferably more than a few days ahead of the intended departure date.  Anything can happen. 
 

Even if you take a spare giubo, would you be prepared to swap one out on the side of the road?

[ray_]

1 hour ago, jgerock said:

Hate to write this, but anyone who is planning on taking an old car on a long trip should crawl under the car for a complete inspection - preferably more than a few days ahead of the intended departure date.  Anything can happen. 
 

Even if you take a spare giubo, would you be prepared to swap one out on the side of the road?

They do usually give good warning before self destructing.

 

I think.

 

Therefore finding a more comfortable location for the operation is usually in the cards.

 

IME.

 

Cheers,

[jgerock]

It’ll be fine- really. ?

[ray_]

See? That one ^ lasted much longer than JP's!

 

[Son of Marty]

When the 6 bolt guibo's fail they seem to shred but not throw huge chunks of rubber off like the 8 bolt ones do from what I've seen anyway.

[jp5Touring]

2 hours ago, jgerock said:

Hate to write this, but anyone who is planning on taking an old car on a long trip should crawl under the car for a complete inspection - preferably more than a few days ahead of the intended departure date.  Anything can happen. 
 

Even if you take a spare giubo, would you be prepared to swap one out on the side of the road?

I couldn't agree more I planed on doing this two weeks ago  but life happens.

[jp5Touring]

I did order guibo and hardware from Blunttech.  I did not over night it.

After a long conversation with everyone at home we decided to call it and not go this year.

We've been super busy the past month, Vintage race weekend, moving my 28yo into his first house and we did Mid Ohio Imsa event this past week end.  We're all exhausted and an eleven hour car adventure is not easy for me any more.

I'm doing much better health wise but some of this stuff still just kicks my ass.

I'm some what disappointed.  I do like beer, cars and good people but there will be other great events.

 

Thanks to everyone for all the info, insight  and help. The faq never fails.

I'll be reading up on the proper way to get it all installed correctly.

 

Safe travels 

[Son of Marty]

I get it you need to take care of your self first. Best wishes on your recovery?.

[Mike Self]

The original guibo on my '69 was made quite differently from the ones they sell now:  the spaces between the bolt holes were mostly filled with teardrop-shaped metal pieces; the rubber just kinda held those pieces and the metal sleeves the bolts go through together in one piece.  

 

After several months of feeling a bit of driveshaft vibration I took the car to a shop, where a very bad guibo was diagnosed as the culprit.  When they removed it, the guibo came off in six or seven pieces--the bolts and metal pieces held everything together.  Today's guibos don't have the metal pieces so come apart much more readily when they crack.  

 

mike

['76mintgrün'02]

Some giubos that have reinforcement built in and others are solid rubber.

 

Is there consistency in terms of branding/reinforcement?  

The reinforced rubber seems like it would be more durable.

 

Jim's photo above

 

 

solid rubber style

 

 

Tom

[jp5Touring]

Doesn't look near as bad off the car as it did on.  Parts should show up Friday.  

Guibo bolts felt a lot tighter than 49 lb.ft.  if that would matter.

Guessing 10k to 20k miles on it.  

 

[John76]

It's probably the misalignment that causes the cracks to open up.

Still not safe.... at any speed.

[JohnS]

You're lucky that you caught the cracked guibo ahead of time and are taking action on it.  On my 74tii I had the guibo fail catastrophically (explode) because I wasn't checking it regularly.  Due to the failure, the bolts ended up totally buggering up both the output flange on the transmission as well as the the flange on the driveshaft too.  Expensive lesson for me.  Consider yourself lucky, ?

John

[jp5Touring]

Have all new hardware and going together now.

Old hardware was a mismatch of 8.8 bolts  and a couple nylock nuts.

Center bearing had a bunch of mismatched washers.