Removing windshield intact

[Fletcher]

I need to patch this and obviously need the windshield out to do it.  The seal seems to be joined at the bottom middle by what looks to me like a big staple.  I’ve read a bit about the rope trick, but that seems oriented towards getting the windshield back in again, how do I get it and the seal out intact?  Someone mentioned spraying the seal with silicone to soften it up before attempting to remove the glass?  Once staple removed and seal softened do I then push the glass out from within and if so do I start at one of the corners?  Thanks!

[dlacey]

Pull the plastic filler/finisher strip out first...

It will be tough to get the screen back in with the tough old seal...so therefore you may as well sacrifice it to get the screen out... Use a sharp knife to cut the outer rubber away from the glass and lift the screen out. Buy a new rubber to avoid the risk of breaking your screen.

If you wanna try to reuse the rubber, get inside the car & peel/pull the rubber away from the headliner in the corners and push forwards, glass and rubber come out together.

Edited September 11, 2020 by dlacey

['76mintgrün'02]

I am afraid that original rubber is beyond reusing, so I agree with the technique of cutting it to get the glass out intact.  You'll still have to be very careful not to flex the glass, if it has any chips or dings, since the cracks will be eager to run.

 

Patching those holes does seem like a priority, but I am not sure that is where I would start; since you'll have a chunk of work ahead of you and will be waiting for rubber to arrive in the mail.  (That would not comply with Dave's suggestion to do one-day projects, in order to keep the car on the road).  Before you order the seal, read up on the trouble people have had with the URO seal... then order the genuine BMW rubber.

 

This might be a source for replacement metal to use in the patch.  

 

Here is his CL ad https://seattle.craigslist.org/skc/pts/d/black-diamond-parting-1972-bmw-2002/7193383043.html

 

It does makes sense to patch the holes that will let water into the cabin, but you do have a garage to park it in, so you can avoid getting it wet until those patches are done.  I'm thinking you'll have quite a shopping list and can save some money on shipping, if you order more parts at once.  

 

This thread ties into your "what to do first?" thread... I think I'd start with brakes and then try to get it out on the road (while we are enjoying the last of the dry season).

 

Tom

[TobyB]

I agree with Tom- drive it a bit, THEN attack the rust.  With any luck, the memories of getting towed home

half a dozen times will motivate you to dive in and find ALL the problems over the wetter, chilly season.

 

That said, cut the gasket.  With an older, crusty gasket, you get to decide between glass and rubber.

If you don't decide, you end up saving the rubber.

Cut away the lip that holds the glass in place, and if it's glued in, THEN go inside and cut away the inner lip

(you can fold it away from the roof with pliers or a spatula to avoid cutting the headliner)

 

Of course, that's also step one of 6 to replace the headliner....

 

t

oh, crack

[Conserv]

4 hours ago, TobyB said:

 

... If you don't decide, you end up saving the rubber...

 

+1

 

Which you will probably find is too hard and dried out to re-use...

Old windshields generally have their share of flaws — chips, de-lamination, cracks — but they are considerably more recyclable than windshield gaskets!

 

Regards,

 

Steve

 

[Mike Self]

One more + on get it running (and stopping!)--i.e. mechanically reliable--before tackling the body repair work.  A quick and dirty fix for those holes around the windshield--that'll turn your glovebox into an aquarium in a rainstorm--is strip caulk, AKA dum-dum.  It's soft, black sealer that comes (wait for it!) in strips (thus the name)--made by 3M and other companies.  

 

Take a strip or two and knead it into a chunk--the heat from your hands will make it a bit more pliable) and stuff it into the gap between the windshield rubber and remaining metal.  It'll do a good job of sealing out the water, and can easily be removed when the time comes to do a proper repair.  

 

It's been my experience--and gleaned from observing others--that having a running, driveable car will give you much more incentive to then tackle the cosmetics, 'cause you're gonna want to get it back on the road and have fun driving it again.  In the meantime, you can start accumulating the parts you'll need to do the prettifying; that way you'll have 'em all when the time comes.  

 

cheers, and happy tinkering

mike

[NYNick]

You don't take the windshield out and try to preserve the rubber seal. You CUT the seal with a sharp razor knife and then pull the windshield out. A new rubber seal is used to replace it when you're ready.

 

I'm afraid you have other fish to fry before that will ever happen, however.

[Fletcher]

Going with Mike’s Strip Calk solution.  Thanks!

[roadhog0]

When you pull the lockstrip is when you find out if you can save the gasket or not. If it's flexible you can usually push the window out from the top center-ish and it should almost pop out. Done it on a few 02's. Also broke a piece of glass that way....

[2002FjordBaur]

Sorry for the slightly off topic reply, but it'll save the forum a new thread!

Is that little screw (circled Red) factory? I've always been intrigued that my car has a screw on one wing but not the other.

And this is the first time I've seen a picture showing that screw on other car? 

 

I suspect its factory but seems a strange fixing?

 

Edited September 12, 2020 by 2002FjordBaur

[AustrianVespaGuy]

On 9/11/2020 at 11:57 AM, TobyB said:

Of course, that's also step one of 6 to replace the headliner....

Don't remind me Toby, had the front and rear glass out for painting and I consciously decided naw, enough work on this go, don't want to tack the headliner right now too. . . probably my only regret of that rebuild! ?

[Mike Self]

12 hours ago, 2002FjordBaur said:

Is that little screw (circled Red) factory? I've always been intrigued that my car has a screw on one wing but not the other.

And this is the first time I've seen a picture showing that screw on other car? 

 

I suspect its factory but seems a strange fixing?

Yep, it's factory. New factory fenders come with a little dimple that shows you where to drill.  So it's possible that your screwless fender was a replacement.

 

However I have always thought that the factory did away with that little screw sometime during the car's production run, as I've seen more than a few later '02s with the dimple but no screw.  Can squarelight owners (Steve, you're an original squarelight owner) verify that their front fenders came with that little screw from the factory?

 

mike

[Conserv]

On 9/13/2020 at 12:07 AM, Mike Self said:

Yep, it's factory. New factory fenders come with a little dimple that shows you where to drill.  So it's possible that your screwless fender was a replacement.

 

However I have always thought that the factory did away with that little screw sometime during the car's production run, as I've seen more than a few later '02s with the dimple but no screw.  Can squarelight owners (Steve, you're an original squarelight owner) verify that their front fenders came with that little screw from the factory?

 

mike

Yep, Mike, both front fenders on the ‘76 came with the screws from the factory. And since my car was built April 23, 1976 (VIN 2742541) — pretty late in the ‘02 game — I would confidently predict that all ‘02’s left the factory with screws holding the fender ears.

 

I’ve also seen, what I suspect are aftermarket fenders, (a.) without a dimple, and (b.) sufficiently skimpy in that corner that they might not even reach the original screw hole. Given that even the quality of OEM replacement fenders has varied widely over these last 50 years, however, perhaps my “aftermarket suspicion” is simply a personal prejudice, and not founded in facts.

Below, the first photo shows the original left front fender on my ‘76 as the car was being prepped for the Big Re-Paint. The second photo shows the new fender after paint; it was an old OEM replacement fender, but not orange label (fit and finish happened to be very good).

 

Certainly for Rust Belt cars, the front fenders were the “most replaced” body parts, by a landslide. And mediocre or poor quality replacements, whether they be OEM or aftermarket, were being installed since the late 1960’s. And second-rate body shops, or body shops unfamiliar with ‘02’s, have been omitting those screws since that time.

 

Here’s a thread from last month discussing the issue:

 

 

Best regards,

 

Steve

 

[roadhog0]

I will also agree with the upper screw being there the whole run. I am the second owner on a '76 and it has the screws.

[Mike Self]

22 hours ago, Conserv said:

Yep, Mike, both front fenders on the ‘76 came with the screws from the factory.

 

3 hours ago, roadhog0 said:

I will also agree with the upper screw being there the whole run. I am the second owner on a '76 and it has the screws.

Good to know, gentlemen.  Thanks for your input.  I've seen enough '02 sans screws to think that perhaps they were omitted on later cars, but apparently what I was seeing were cars with replacement fenders and lazy body shops.  

 

BTW, the original front fenders on my '69 had started to bubble along the trailing edges by late 1971/early 1972...It's on its third set, but they've been on the car since 1986 or so and have never rusted--because I doused that trailing edge with anti rust paint before installing the fenders, and didn't fill the seam with schutz like the factory did.

 

mike