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What did you do to your 2002 today !


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I was just about to put crank back in block, final checks and found that as my thrust bearing got toasted my crank died too. End play about 2 mm. So back to part shelves & crank department and there was good std 48/55 mm. Prepped it and put it in. Waiting to rod bolts to arrive...

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Edited by tzei
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2002 -73 M2, 2002 -71 forced induction. bnr32 -91

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21 hours ago, tzei said:

I was just about to put crank back in block, final checks and found that as my thrust bearing got toasted my crank died too. End play about 2 mm.

 

 

I've had the thrust welded / repaired / re-ground ... not inexpensive, but sometimes practical if it's a special crankshaft. -KB

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Thanks! Not gonna bin it - have to look into repairing it someday. It’s nothing special, std M10 crank but i think they’re nla from factory. Last time i got one there was like 3 left.

2002 -73 M2, 2002 -71 forced induction. bnr32 -91

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Got back my freshly checked and rebuilt Cold Start boxes from @JsnPpp. He replaced the innards of my barely functioning box and cleaned/reinforced my good one too. Not only that, but being the great guy he is - he polished my backup for me too. I'm very happy with the results, process, communication etc - I can't say enough good things about Jason. Now to slap the new Zeitschalter label from Mo onto the backup and I'm all set!

 

 

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Edited by Rodolfo Lasparri
Sp
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1973 2002tii Taiga

1969 2002 Chamonix

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More progress! 
I think I’m nearly there. Took it all apart again. Discovered double gaskets on one intake tube, where it was showing a leak. Don’t know how I missed it, except it was silver like the tube aluminum, but whatever. 
Got it all back together and started it. Runs well! 
Idles high. Idle settles down but only down to about 2400rpm. Idle screw ineffective below that, but will raise it if screwed in more. I already set the tubs can so not sure next step there. 
There’s still a little surge but progress is progress. Now to drive it to shake it down. 
Also found the oil leak. Thought it was rear seal but it’s the dizzy bolt, the washer oring needs replacing. 
 

This was cold start:

 

 

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2003 e39 M5 (daily)

1986 e30 325es (sons car)

1972 2002tii (fun daily alternative)

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More progress! 
I had a few minutes with the car this afternoon, not really time enough to work on it but I wanted to drive it and shake it down a little.
Idle was high but definitely came down when I adjusted the timing by ear. No light, I just turned dizzy to see the effect, and the idle came down quite a bit but still a bit high. Also the throttle linkage isn’t returning to zero so the idle sounds close to where it should be when I pull the linkage tight.

Progress! 

 

First time the car has seen the light of day in months. 
 

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2003 e39 M5 (daily)

1986 e30 325es (sons car)

1972 2002tii (fun daily alternative)

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Rod bolts came so put basement back together. 

 

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Special tools for S14 rods. Once big end is in bore and points downwards it's easypeasy - no nics on journals.

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Old bolts heads grinded. Some 5 mm rods welded and plastic tube over. Works.

 

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2002 -73 M2, 2002 -71 forced induction. bnr32 -91

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We took Friday off from work to finish the placement of the rear right shock tower panel.

Last thing to do before spot welding it into place was placing some of our steel wiring clamps to hold the fuel line in place. Using the spotwelded these got added, as well as the original bracket in the front corner that we recovered from the original panel.

 

After one last measurement of it's placement, also reconfirming the location of the subframe mount and it's height compared to the other side, it was time to attach it for good!

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The outer flange on the inside is stitch welded to the inner structure of the body. I didn't weld in one straight line but rather "spotwelds" to prevent from blowing through.
Also the trunk floor and triangular bracket are stitch welded to the shocktower panel

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Better view of the original fuel line bracket and steel clamps. Here, we still needed to stitch weld the inner rocker to the reinforcement piece of the shock tower panel.

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After finishing the placement of the shock tower panel, we started with fitting up the outer rocker panel, door and quarter panel. Overall very happy with the fitment.
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I don't have a picture of the stainless steel trim piece fitted to the car, but the gap is nice and even. We might move the door slightly more towards the rear to close the gap just a little more. (we also fitted the NOS front fenders and the gap there was a little tighter. However I'm sure we can still play with the fitment of the hood as well.

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As it was getting late, we cleaned down the panels and sprayed them with paint.

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Lastly, the NOS fuel sender also arrived this week.

The one that was fitted on our Touring as a smaller sender that was modified, there was a pickup tube installed to reach all the way to the bottom of the tank. Being that it was a lot smaller, the reading we would have gotten from it would no have been correct. Luckily I found a seller that listed several NOS units for sale so I snatched one up.

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On 11/23/2023 at 12:59 PM, tzei said:

Special tools for S14 rods. Once big end is in bore and points downwards it's easypeasy - no nics on journals.

Old bolts heads grinded. Some 5 mm rods welded and plastic tube over. Works.

 

 

Nice - custom tools are the best. -KB

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1974 tii (PerTronix)

 

The car tended to skip occasionally at MidAmerica and again this month.  Not much but you know how we can get when we feel a skip...  

 

New Bremi cap, Bremi rotor, Karlyn wires, Champion N9YC plugs, and advance curve.  8-yo PerTronix.  Now she's humming like a mother and pulling like a brother...at least to 6,000.  I could not get her to max above 30 degrees.  The eyeballed best fit line in the curve is not mathematically correct; however, it's probably close.  How far off is this curve from what you guys have found with a tii?

Larry

 

IMG_70213.thumb.JPG.67c55585c100e0ec4061ffb28184e864.JPG

 

 

Edited by 2002#3
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