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JsnPpp

Solex
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  1. Also see what looks like fiberglass. For piece of mind may want to poke around there more to understand the extent of the repair. Jason
  2. Great adventure, Great looking car... More photos please! Jason
  3. When you shake the bumper can you see what is rattling specifically? May require a second set of eyes. Photos of both mounts would be good! Jason
  4. Looks like a nice car, GLWS!
  5. Impressive! For a "new to welding" person, you seem to be doing just fine. The only thing I can think of - on the metal that you have repaired and covered in gray primer - keep in mind you want to make sure those panels protected, not just primer if you can help it - you don't want it to rust again. Car looks great and yes, what color will it be? Thank you for posting, was fun to look at all the photos. Jason
  6. I agree with @albatcha. More than that, this theory applies to ANY vintage/collectable/valuable item being sold on the interwebs today, be it classic cars, motorcycles, cameras, stamps, you name it. If one is looking for top dollar: take as many photos from as many angles as possible, provide as much color as possible, provide recent history, previous owner history. Any roses, any thorns. Prior to selling it, spend time on the top collectors websites and understand what is important and what is not. Post a link on the "for sale" section of those sites to announce intention. Ask earnest questions and you will likely find earnest answers. This is all on the seller, not on the buyer. It takes serious time to do right; months and months possibly. Whether its worth it to the seller depends on what the perceived value of the object is and what the seller wants to get out of it - especially on a bidding website. If a seller knows what they want, avoid the hassle and take an ad out on craigslist. ~Jason
  7. Ha! My first thought was to go take a photo of it on my car then circle the pieces - would have been the best answer. But then decided to try to describe it. I'm glad folks were able to figure out what was in my head... Appreciate the advice on the sheet neoprene, looks like the way to go! And thank you for the part numbers Les. Solved!
  8. Woot! Looking forward to following the progress. Couldn't be in better hands. Cheers, Jason
  9. I didn't know a pump rebuild kit was "a thing" - nice awareness... thanks. Link above didn't seem to work, but this looks to be the same, only with bearings: https://www.ebay.com/itm/kugelfischer-pl04-gaskets-bearings-kit-for-bmw-2002-fiat-131-abarth/113741082885 Jason
  10. Man, I looked under vehicle trim too. @Tech71 - thanks! I'll take a look..
  11. Horrible description. But making it really hard to find a part number. I'm looking for the name/number of the two rubber rectangular sheets that are glued to the engine bay on both sides of the heater core in the engine compartment. Looks like sound/heat insulation but not clear. Its the two pieces on the engine side of the channel where the heater core and windshield wiper motor sits. Hows that for clear? Hopefully someone has an idea, I've been searching for feels like an hour.., anything helps. 1973, but pretty sure on most/all years of cars, maybe not the really early ones. Cheers, Jason
  12. Just catching up on this thread - don't worry, it's all a learning curve! I was part of the camp that installed the locking strip after the seal was installed. I like the theory of installing the strip before installing the window, but the practical side of making the seal less flexible and a bit "wider" made me choose the other. Using the wheel locking strip tool made it relatively easy, but like most things again, its a learning curve on where you position yourself and what forces to use and how to keep the strip straight while turning the corners, etc. I'm pretty good mechanically and so it wasn't a major concern to me. You'll get it! Like I said I installed/pulled it three times to get it how I wanted. Learning curve. Jason
  13. Fun conversation and informative on the nuances of differences b/w Tii and carb'd cars. Love this depth! I believe the car is not rebodied, but if I was in doubt and thinking of purchasing to be sure I'd look under the passenger fender and see for welding residue if the stamped VIN was swapped. That would tell all... ~Jason
  14. Just did the rear window seal on my '73 about a month or so ago. It's a bit of a pain but it's absolutely doable. I had my daughter help by pushing slightly on the outside where the string was pulling out. I was on the inside back seat pulling the string. Couple of points - make sure the window is absolutely centered left and right and adjust as needed while the string is pulling out. A little too much and the seal will curl in on one side. Second, I started the rope pull at the bottom of the seal. I tried both ways and the bottom works best. As your partner pushes gently from the outside, you pull the string and the window will pull in as it is supposed to. Don't hesitate to stop and adjust the window as needed, pushing down from the top, etc. I also unlatched the side windows so I could put my arm out and pull the glass in around the corners, which IMO are the hardest parts. Push down on the glass when doing the top - note that this means your force is parallel to the glass, pushing it to the ground more than pushing it against the car.. I used windex and it worked. Took me three times to get it how I wanted it. And when you are done, go and buy the locking strip tool with the little wheel. It makes a difference. Another learning curve... Good luck, don't give up! Jason
  15. Can I just set an auto "like" response to all photos in this thread? Great cars! Thanks for sharing.. Jason


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