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Rodolfo Lasparri

Turbo
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    The Pacific Northwest

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  1. Finally - off to the blasters and then to epoxy. A personal favorite was the fender removal on the driver side, it was so thick at the pillar it had to be torched to free up the fender. I also enjoyed the lead removal at the seam, a lot more lead than I expected; thankful for my respirator.
  2. Lots going on with this car to say the least, love the color though as many have noted. My 73 Tii is presently (as of this morning) at the blasters and once ready will be going back to it's factory Taiga color as well (last repainted Golf). Once done it certainly won't be on BAT or at least not for as long as I am around.
  3. Give these two a look: https://www.bmw2002faq.com/articles/technical-articles/suspension-and-steering/ https://www.bmw2002faq.com/articles/technical-articles/suspension-and-steering/suspension-rehab-r99/
  4. Removed the wiring harness today, next week it’s off to the blasters. For what it’s worth, while it is possible to remove the entire assembly into the body; in my case I had to de-pin two smaller connectors.
  5. For my '73 Tii, after stripping out the tar and repairing the floor; I used the Silver POR15 and POR patch for the seam sealer. Later when it get's painted, it'll be done to match the exterior. That will require scuffing it all up prior to adding the topcoat, which you're supposed to do if it will exposed to UV light at all. That shouldn't be an issue under the floor. My advice would be to topcoat with the Chamonix since you have it already (like Marty said) and apply it as soon as the second POR coat is barely tacky to the touch - then no additional prep is needed.
  6. Hi Barney, Last I checked, costs were between $1,100 and $1,500 depending on who you chose. Ingram was the highest. Wes Ingram - 360-707-5701 Gus, Pacific Fuel Injection - 650-588-8880 Jerry Fairchild - 530-474-4646 Marty, H&R - 631-589-1600 Best, Bret
  7. +1 - I am running the same MSD with a Red Coil, Tach adapter like mentioned and older Pertronix in my '73 Tii - improved idle and performance right out of the gate as I recall. Never had a problem with it in well over 10 years of use.
  8. Dry ice all the way for the flat sections, then hit it with a ball peen; comes out super clean. For the thinner side panels and tunnel, use a heat gun and scraper followed by mineral spirits to clean those; looks great afterwards. Nice work!
  9. Many thanks, appreciate the input! My 73 is getting done in about 3 weeks and that's what I was planning to use as well :).
  10. Looking good, what media type did you use for blasting?
  11. Thanks Steve -appreciate the advice, was hesitant to use too harsh a chemical based on finish; but will follow your guidance here
  12. Great thread Vince and timing on my headlight restoration as well as other plated parts; thanks for the reminder on this article Steve. When you have a significant amount of overspray to clean off parts before plating - what's the consensus on the best way to do this without harming the plating surface? I was contemplating bead blasting, but in seeing this I'm now at a loss.
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