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What did you do to your 2002 today !


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Well, I went and done did it… bought me a stablemate for the ‘74 off of BAT! ‘72 project car, with good solid bones, even if there are many areas of refurbishment to come. This will be my first big retirement project. Pics to follow after I pick it up on Saturday. I’m sooooooo excited! A new roundie!

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Got it home after a leisurely 3.5 hour tow… today I took inventory of the parts that came with the car then dove into the car looking at key spots for dreaded rot. Outside of the right front fender, there is none! Pulled the back seat to see what critters had be using it for a summer home and found the cleanest back seat I’ve ever owned. Look at the pics. No rust on the bottom or back seat frames. I couldn’t find rust anywhere under the seats. Plenty of surface rust in other areas, but not rot. Took a hundred pics of various parts of the car. Cleaned the back seat area and hit it with Aero 303. Looks real nice. Then pushed it over by its new younger sibling and took more pics. They look happy together. Next week I’m pulling off the lower part of the dash to check the wiring (found plenty of mouse turds in other parts of the interior) then change out all of the fuses, put in a battery and check the electrical system. I will add more details as I dig in. 

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9 hours ago, 0257 said:

Please report🤞🏼!

Bled the kfisher. 
First pulled the coil wire, adjusted the distributor back to where it was, and cranked the car over opening each line at the pump. 
First one spilled gas when opened, but not any more when cranking. 
second had steady stream of gas out the drain home just below the fitting, soon as I cracked it open. 
Those were the two on driver side. 
Third and fourth were like first. 
 

Reconnected coil and tried starting it holding the cold start button.
No dice.

Cold start seems to work as there was gas in the intake (having taken the airbox off prior). 
 

mean the battery dead trying to crank it. Currently at auto parts store getting recharged. 
 

In my mind, the kfisher and fuel system should be working fine, save for some air in the injector lines, if that affects it. Car started and drove in here before I pulled the head. 
So, I think it has to be dizzy is out of timing. Anything else? Frustrated and down. 

2003 e39 M5 (daily)

1986 e30 325es (sons car)

1972 2002tii (fun daily alternative)

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21 minutes ago, Pablo M said:

Bled the kfisher. 
First pulled the coil wire, adjusted the distributor back to where it was, and cranked the car over opening each line at the pump. 
First one spilled gas when opened, but not any more when cranking. 
second had steady stream of gas out the drain home just below the fitting, soon as I cracked it open. 
Those were the two on driver side. 
Third and fourth were like first. 
 

Reconnected coil and tried starting it holding the cold start button.
No dice.

Cold start seems to work as there was gas in the intake (having taken the airbox off prior). 
 

mean the battery dead trying to crank it. Currently at auto parts store getting recharged. 
 

In my mind, the kfisher and fuel system should be working fine, save for some air in the injector lines, if that affects it. Car started and drove in here before I pulled the head. 
So, I think it has to be dizzy is out of timing. Anything else? Frustrated and down. 

I was interested generally, but particularly because I replaced all my lines and bleeding was not an issue.  My cold start didn’t work at all for the longest time, and the only issue that gave me was that on a first morning start I’d have to “cough” the engine to life (that’s in FL, where real cold mornings are rare). If you’re getting injection off your cold start button that shouldn’t be an issue.  Taking aside the pump settings themselves (v-screw and idle/mixture screw(s)), and assuming your throttle linkage is tight and properly adjusted (did everything work before you started in on the project?), fuel shouldn’t be the issue. Timing issues can really affect starting, so I’d definitely check, doublecheck and triplecheck timing.  If you’re running a 123, be sure your static timing is dead on — don’t believe the installation instruction that says you’re good as long as you twist the dizzy till you get a green light.  Numerous posts on that.

‘74 Fjord 2002tii (Zouave)

’80 Alpenweiss 528i (Evelyn)

’05 R53 Chili Red Mini S

‘56 Savage Model 99 in .250-3000

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16 minutes ago, 0257 said:

Taking aside the pump settings themselves (v-screw and idle/mixture screw(s)), and assuming your throttle linkage is tight and properly adjusted (did everything work before you started in on the project?), fuel shouldn’t be the issue. Timing issues can really affect starting, so I’d definitely check, doublecheck and triplecheck timing.  If you’re running a 123, be sure your static timing is dead on — don’t believe the installation instruction that says you’re good as long as you twist the dizzy till you get a green light.  Numerous posts on that.

I havent installed the 123 yet because I wanted to get it running again first. 

I pulled the head and had it rebuilt. So the dizzy came off as part of that. I am certain the cam/timing chain/crank are properly timed together, the head was #1TDC when it went back on.

And I drove the car to my friends house and into his garage, so it was running when I parked it couple months ago to remove the head (which had a bad exh valve). 

So, in my mind the only real setting that changed was the dizzy setting. I'm trying to find a photo of the dizzy so I can compare and see if I did get it in the same position as before it came out. Otherwise I don't know how to set the distributor on a non running motor. 

2003 e39 M5 (daily)

1986 e30 325es (sons car)

1972 2002tii (fun daily alternative)

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3 minutes ago, Pablo M said:

Otherwise I don't know how to set the distributor on a non running motor.

 

This is likely where your trouble lies.  

 

The Haynes manual and Blue Books go into detail on how to reset the dizzy to TDC.  It's not difficult.  If you think the dizzy was set pretty close, simply have someone cranking it and turn the dizzy a few degrees in each direction to see if it will fire.

 

If you think you've flooded it, stop and pull the plugs and make sure they aren't wet with fuel.  A wet plug won't easily fire...

 

You'll get it, soon enough, no worries.

 

Ed

 

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'69 Granada... long, long ago  

'71 Manila..such a great car

'67 Granada 2000CS...way cool

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On 11/5/2023 at 10:28 AM, stephers said:

I am about to put together a 4.1 to 1 motorsport ring and pinion with a Quaife diff.   What ring gear bolys are you using or going to use?

 

Thanks, Rick

 

Rick, there are more than one version of OE bolt.  Try to find the OE bolt with the serrated under head.  I've found it to hold in place better than the smooth bottom.

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Anyone pull the emissions gear off of your 1972 ‘02 and have it sitting around? While my car will be smog exempt here in California, I will not be able to register it (bought it under planned non operating status) until it passes smog and a big part of that is the visual inspection. Please let me know…and thanks for any help!

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3 minutes ago, cdbeemin said:

Anyone pull the emissions gear off of your 1972 ‘02 and have it sitting around? While my car will be smog exempt here in California, I will not be able to register it (bought it under planned non operating status) until it passes smog and a big part of that is the visual inspection. Please let me know…and thanks for any help!

There’s no smog equipment for 1972. I have a 72 and I’m CA also. I think 76 was first year of smog equipment. 
 

edit: also there’s no smog check at all for 1972 (or any 1975 or older) cars. 

Edited by Pablo M

2003 e39 M5 (daily)

1986 e30 325es (sons car)

1972 2002tii (fun daily alternative)

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I’m getting a rumble under the floor behind me on vigorous acceleration. Two weeks ago my mechanic told me he had found a loose bolt on the guibo and replaced it.  Advised me the drive shaft needs attention.  Rumbling continues so I went under the car to inspect drive train  today.  It looks like my flange on the drive shaft is hogged out at the guibo where the loose bolt was replaced.  And the new bolt isn’t going to hold for long either. 
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