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jimk

Solex
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About jimk

  • Birthday 09/28/1943

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  1. Connector 31 is there though. I use it to power the cruise control. The index to connectors identifies it as the fuel pump connector on the OEM diagram I have for a 2002 roundie. BMW 2002 USA 12Volt 12 Fuse RoundTailight.pdf
  2. The screws on mine were SS and I can vouch for it was the first time apart since new.
  3. Bearing picture appears to be of the outside of the bearing. That area should not have any marks. If it has, then it was spun.
  4. Search your wiring diagram for connector 31. It is the connector supplied on both Tii and non-Tii cars. It is located under the dash, drivers side above the kick panel. It is a fused connector just dangling. A fuse block fuse protects it.
  5. Here are 2 space ship logs at WOT or near WOT, one at about 4900ft Elev (85 kPa Baro), and one at about 800 ft Elev (98 kPa Baro). I played the logs back with the trace on on the injection advance table. It can be seen the 4900 ft Elev run cannot achieve the same air charge (and consequently a lower cylinder pressure) as the 800ft Elev run.has. Observe where the ignition advance traces at more advance at the lower elevation operation. (Excuse, I loaded one image twice.)
  6. Looks like a spun bearing to me. Rod caps on in the correct orientation?. Crank needs polishing too.
  7. You need the "Ported vacuum nipple". Vacuum advance provided added advance for cruising not power.
  8. I tune both ignition advance and fuel by Grams Air per Cylinder charge and RPM, so I don't deal with any curves.. This even compensates for loss of pressure due to major elevation changes for driving in Colo. Of course it's a Haltech ECU and a MAF. It's also easy to see where the cam "comes on".
  9. If the pump power comes from the coil, then it's power also comes thru the ignition switch. If the ignition switch burns out, replacement will be a problem. Search on ignition switches here and the issues will give you a headache.
  10. Agree that the distributor is all there was in the 70s. I just got tired of it all having started adjusting points and timing in the 60s. I wanted a car I could drive and not spend all the time it adjusting. You guys must get bored when you cant twist or turn something. I'd rather be tipping something cool.
  11. Zinc diecast is the material and is the reason the end of the torsion rod made the block creep. Zinc diecast will creep under constant stress. The steel insert is the best solution, even better than an entire steel block. A steel block would give a bunch of corrosion because the joint is not lubricated. I wanted to make inserts too, but with the later block, I swapped it for now and also have two rather expensive new blocks in a bag. It is surprising what seem to be a minor amount of twist on the rods do for that snap up hood holding.
  12. The idle timing issue being discussed here ad nauseam goes away with the application of some later technology like a 123 distributor or an EFI controlling ignition.
  13. Didn't @kaptanoglu have an issue with this line and he posted pics of his new line on here? As I recall, the fitting on the inlet end of the line has an orifice to control the flow and reduce the pressure in the line and is probably the reason for a simple plastic hose.


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