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What did you do to your 2002 today !


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15 hours ago, AceAndrew said:

 

 

Good on you!  There are too many who are too afraid to peel that back.  It's an essential part of a full proper restoration.

 

Its amazing how  much crud was in there. Only some of it was rust because the rail really isn't that rusty.
There was a label off a tomato sauce jar in there 😮.

 

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36 minutes ago, SplitDash said:

 

Its amazing how  much crud was in there. Only some of it was rust because the rail really isn't that rusty.
There was a label off a tomato sauce jar in there 😮.

 

 

How did you pull it apart?  Did you drill out the spot welds?  From above or below? I need to replace my passenger floor pan and will need to separate it from the frame rail like you did.

Karl B.

1974 2002tii Malaga ("Conrad") -->> Conrad's Restoration Blog

2003 330i ZHP 6-spd

2011 328i xDrive

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Decided to give the speedo the 02Restoration's repair today. After some FAQ research, I was able to remove the cluster without taking the whole car apart😉 I had my son help me dissassemble the gauges. Since he is always taking his toys apart, I thought he might like to take my toy apart. 

 

While I was in there I wanted to get rid of the fine 1970's wood grain trim. I had started by hitting it with some red scotch brite and noticed the wood coating came off really quickly. So I figured why not try to brake kleen it off? I then proceeded to wipe all the "wood" off with a red shop rag and brake kleen. It came off pretty quickly and then I was able to buff the plastic out with some quick cut compound and my mini buffing wheel on the drill. I was surprised how slick it came out and with minimal effort. I think I ended up fixing the erratic speedo but Ill find out once I take it for a spin. I had a case of scope creep and ended up re wiring my Brantz and map light to relocate the Brantz below my radio in the console. 

 

3F28CFD3-B845-4969-ABB3-9A617062BBB0.heic 18F60917-6012-448C-9A9D-E095DDF15FCE.heic 41770011-481B-428A-90B9-ACD983FED4CD.heic

Edited by sczapiga
Added photos
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2 hours ago, bergie33 said:

 

How did you pull it apart?  Did you drill out the spot welds?  From above or below? I need to replace my passenger floor pan and will need to separate it from the frame rail like you did.

Yea just drilled the welds from above . very easy .

I use a drill bit like this.

I started putting it back together last night.

Good luck!

 

 

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On 3/17/2023 at 3:13 AM, tech71 said:

Got outside today and extracted an upper engine bay firewall panel from a chunk of Rust Bucket I had in the barn. Its dirty work and I hate doing it in my limited space garage.

Going to use to repair poor little Franzies rusted out panel.

Only question now is how much to use, changing out the entire panel in a complete car looks difficult to say the least, Maybe better to flush in a section.

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I actually did remove the full panel (and am glad I did), there was quite some rust between the flanges at the heater box hole.

Decided to make a small forming die to punch in the little step for the drain tubes.

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By removing it, I got access to the underside of the windshield opening

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5 hours ago, sczapiga said:

Decided to give the speedo the 02Restoration's repair today. After some FAQ research, I was able to remove the cluster without taking the whole car apart😉 I had my son help me dissassemble the gauges. Since he is always taking his toys apart, I thought he might like to take my toy apart. 

 

While I was in there I wanted to get rid of the fine 1970's wood grain trim. I had started by hitting it with some red scotch brite and noticed the wood coating came off really quickly. So I figured why not try to brake kleen it off? I then proceeded to wipe all the "wood" off with a red shop rag and brake kleen. It came off pretty quickly and then I was able to buff the plastic out with some quick cut compound and my mini buffing wheel on the drill. I was surprised how slick it came out and with minimal effort. I think I ended up fixing the erratic speedo but Ill find out once I take it for a spin. I had a case of scope creep and ended up re wiring my Brantz and map light to relocate the Brantz below my radio in the console. 

 

3F28CFD3-B845-4969-ABB3-9A617062BBB0.heic 2.15 MB · 16 downloads 18F60917-6012-448C-9A9D-E095DDF15FCE.heic 4.04 MB · 8 downloads 41770011-481B-428A-90B9-ACD983FED4CD.heic 2.25 MB · 6 downloads

Did you install another ground while you were in there?

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This happened on my '74tii (The Thrasher).  Living up to her name 🙂

 

Is this a common breakage point?  I think/know a subframe rebuild is in order...

 

Cracked1.jpg

Cracked2.jpg

Edited by JohnS
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'73tii Inka 🍊

'74tii Fjord 🏄‍♂️

 

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3 hours ago, JohnS said:

This happened on my '74tii (The Thrasher).  Living up to her name 🙂

 

Is this a common breakage point?  I think/know a subframe rebuild is in order...

 

I'm not certain about '02s, but the construction is very similar on an E9.  Here are some nasty stress cracks that I found on my coupe front subframe.  

20210328-stresscrack1.thumb.jpg.d2e991280f19ed622878a1f638a06e09.jpg

20210328-stresscrack2.thumb.jpg.6b22b47a433e6234dc30952feeb987b6.jpg

 

And my slightly heavy handed welding and grinding solution.  It no longer looks "stock", but is hopefully stronger.

20211118-roundededges.thumb.jpg.ed91945b0c59e315250781fba22d6a3b.jpg

 

The car had a heavier sway bar on it and these reinforced  clips, too.

20210306-reinforcedclip1.thumb.jpg.b68c6e0c8b894e3b325ba2d99eacbf34.jpg

20210306-reinforcedclip2.thumb.jpg.8a70873decfd97975a6bc686200df6d2.jpg

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Stephen Bruns

1968 1600-2  "Stuart"

1973 3.0CS  "Raven"  https://e9coupe.com/forum/threads/the-raven-e9-project.26879/

1967 VW Beetle  "Templeton"

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UPDATE AND A QUESTION

I am still chasing the source for my interior blinker light not working.  All exterior lights work correctly, as does the hazard lights.  But the interior lamp will not blink at all.  I replaced the lamp, still nothing.  I thought I'd try to add a ground as I've read.  That was a nice project, but unfortunately it didn't fix the problem. 

20230321-dashopen.thumb.jpg.2a36c2c098344b5d87becbfb6c6f7cce.jpg

 

20230321-ICground.thumb.jpg.5b5f1a59c0cffb053e8438f3f193d66c.jpg

 

20230321-clusterground.thumb.jpg.06d6e8781a57f5448fa051c7600d340c.jpg

 

While working in there, a knurled nut fell out of the dash (or possibly from the sky or thin air).  It is the smaller/older nut in the photos.  The larger/shinier nuts are what hold the instrument cluster in the car.  The smaller one has different threads (will not thread onto the IC posts).  Any insight on what this is from?

20230321-fellfromthesky1.thumb.jpg.fcb11ffe130daa205cc2298bf108a060.jpg

20230321-fellfromthesky2.thumb.jpg.fbed4d1a14fb8e4011b4709b90e33162.jpg

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Stephen Bruns

1968 1600-2  "Stuart"

1973 3.0CS  "Raven"  https://e9coupe.com/forum/threads/the-raven-e9-project.26879/

1967 VW Beetle  "Templeton"

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My car has been running a bit rough these last few days.  Hard starting and stumbling off the line while demonstrating an erratic idle but ran decent on sustained acceleration or higher speed cruising.  Yesterday I took a look at the carburetor. Checked the idle jet, fuel filter and screen and took a look at the fuel pump output but everything looked clean and normal. Today after work I took a look at the distributor. Bingo! 

 

I have never seen such a corroded dirty mess of a cap and rotor in my entire automotive career!   I couldn't even find the spring loaded center contact, must have fallen out when I removed the cap. I cleaned up the rotor w/ alcohol and sandpaper and found a spare distributor cap and all is well again. Glad I did that because I have to go for a pretty far drive tomorrow.

 

I have to share these pictures.  This car has been used at least 2 or 3 days a week the entire winter with the exception of the couple weeks of snow/ice and salt a couple months ago. Obviously, I'm not paying enough attention to the distributor, cap and rotor.

 

 

DSC_0965.JPG

DSC_0966.JPG

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