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SplitDash

Solex
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Everything posted by SplitDash

  1. More good ideas there @OldRoller. I'm leaning towards the aluminium L profile. 6/8 of them combined with some longer brackets on the bottom should make for a solid fixing. I think I'll use SS rivnuts . Of course I'll update here when I do the job. It's a little ways down the list ! Thanks again
  2. @OldRoller Thats a great idea🤙 and one I hadnt thought of! I have a brand new nose cone for my car so I could do the fitup & glass on the bench,
  3. I got this original kamai bumper for little money. Anyway, it needs a few repairs around the mounting holes. Any tips for doing this ? I didn't want to add any thickness to the mounting flange but I don't think I'll have much choice Thanks
  4. The door/hood on his first 2002 is so out of line 😄
  5. @zambo How do you get it so nice looking? Just polish or did you get it coated ? Nice work 😎
  6. Before I came up with the method above I was going to replace that section completely and push the gap closed then trim back. I even made a panel on the english wheel but decided that It was too risky (for my skill level).
  7. I thought about this problem then I looked at it for a while. The green line below is the current body line, center line is the line I want & right line is the door line. I cut out and tacked in this bit of metal. Trimmed it back a bit Welded it in Ground it back flush & cleaned up that line where the alu trim sits. Before & after Hard to get across how big of a difference this has made to the car. It just looked so sloppy before. I know it looks a bit rough around that trim hole but remember this is before filler/blocking. Should be sweet when painted.
  8. Interesting. I would say they are two very different shapes. Mines also a 74 and closer to your 74. Your 72 has tidy lines..... Yea , as I said the door was pried open and that whole panel was caved in. I've done a lot of work to get it to this stage but more needed.
  9. Thanks Tommy. Funny enough I suspect the QP was replaced way way back in the day. I guess I'll have to try my hand at lead loading......time to buy more tools and hit youtube.....
  10. I've spent a long time repairing my door. internal rust and reskinning the lower part. Anyway I am happy with all the gaps except the gap above the handle. I'm fairly sure the door was crowbarred open at some stage in its life so the body was a bit out of whack in that area. There was also quite a bit of lead loading around the gap on the body side. Can someone share some pictures of their doors? picture of mine, door & body are not even the same shape......?! I'm tempted to add more to the door and grind it back to a nice fit.
  11. I went through my pics and found this. Welds on the parcel shelf and spot welds on the pinched upstand (2). I pugged the new panel in from the top.
  12. No need to drill from the underside of your taking it all out. The spots all along where the parcel shelf meet the outer scuttle. And maybe straight down from the parcel shelf. I can't remember!
  13. You should start by drilling the spot welds and separating the panel here to see what you are dealing with ! Mine looked ok on the outside but the underside was heavily pitted. This is inside the trunk looking up into the original window surround. Water was getting in there.
  14. Yea they do. I replaced mine. Was the first major bit of visible welding I had to do (ever) and it was very straight forward. Once you drill out the rear parcel shelf spot welds the shelf locates it nicely. I welded out the 2 seams that were left visible from the factory. They are why it rusted on mine. "Finished" in this pic, fitment of the MVP panel was decent
  15. Wow. I've printed this picture out and its going on my inspiration wall! Can I ask about those indicators lens ? They look savage 😎
  16. Little bit of door repair .......after the other door i am never doing it again 😁 Bought a cheapo english wheel to to shape the door panel. Just gotta weld it in and not make it into a bananna......
  17. Very nice. I hope to be at this stage in the next few months....... Any way. I notice nobody has mentioned the headliner. Am I right in saying it needs to go in before the glass? Also IIRC correctly the dash needs to be in before the windscreen?
  18. New nose panel. Ive had the nose for about 3 years ...... The sides of the nose were also rotten and had a few bad repairs which had also rotted. Nose offered up last night. Looking like a car again
  19. That inner area has been taken off repaired and put back on 😁. Thanks Mike and everyone for the answers
  20. No clips in the A pillar flange (on mine anyway). Heres a pic. Anyone got a pic of the door jam? with the door open 😀 I just dont remember seeing the pointy end of the bolts in there !
  21. thanks @Tommy I think you are right. I have two bags of these and there is more of the hex head screws than the the receiver clips. But do they screw in from the door jamb side? I guess they must or they would be poking out into the door. But then again they would be more secure with the cap inside the wheel arch!
  22. Am I right in saying these screws go from the wheel well side into the A pillar ? And what about this part of the fender ? This doesn't look right to me, I know its covered by the hood but It doesnt feel right to me as is. I'm not sure if my fenders are OG, possibly replaced in the 90s by my dad!
  23. I think it was as some stage ! It's been a BMW for at least 35 years 🤣
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