What did you do to your 2002 today !

[Shiparino]

Finally got back to work on the 75. Filled some empty holes.

[its55]

6 hours ago, Pablo M said:

Started on my brake overhaul. 
-new discs and rebuilding my calipers

-new stainless brake lines ft & rr

-new drums and shoes, plus new wheel cylinders

-new reservoir and hoses to master. 
-repack hub bearings. They don’t look like they need replacing. 
Will be cleaning and repainting as I go. Not to restoration level but for my own peace of mind. Will sand and paint backing plates, hubs, strut bodies:

Will also replace shocks with Bilstein, springs with H&R. 
 

Replacing strut tops also. 

 

 

scope creep:

Calipers don’t look rebuildable. This is the worse one.

Even if it were rebuildable I’m not comfortable doing so. Will be sourcing remans somewhere. I read on this forum the Carbone brand ones are to be avoided but what Napa and RockAuto sell are good. 

 

My son is helping me. 
(I helped him with his e30 lol). 

 

Fun job!  Did some upgrading myself over the summer.  Well, more like maintenance.  Next year I plan to do again w/ the s/s brake lines and perhaps replace all hard lines.

 

Suggestion - keep the brake bleeders from the old calipers.  New one's come with longer bleeders which may hit your wheels and cause a mess.  If needed you'll only need to put the shorter bleeder on the one (outside I think?) that would most likely contact the wheel.  If you have aftermarket wheels it may not be a problem, but if original steelies you will need the shorter bleeders. Been there and learned! 

 

Also - you'll probably end up w/ Cardone anyway - I went everywhere including Napa and Rock Auto and ended up w/ Cardone.  I think they're fine.

 

 

['76mintgrün'02]

10 hours ago, Pablo M said:

Calipers don’t look rebuildable. This is the worse one.

Even if it were rebuildable I’m not comfortable doing so. Will be sourcing remans somewhere. I read on this forum the Carbone brand ones are to be avoided but what Napa and RockAuto sell are good. 

 

If those are Ate calipers, you might want to consider selling them to someone who will rebuild them; as opposed to turning them in as cores.  New pistons are available at Rock Auto for $10 each, if any of them are pitted.  My guess is that they're mostly just dirty.  The pistons are chrome plated.  The bores tend to rust in the outer 1/4", outside of the seals, but it isn't hard to clean them up.  That was the reason mine were sticking/dragging.  I scraped the rust out and they've been working fine ever since.

 

EDIT--

I just checked RockAuto and the pistons are currently $5 each.

More Information for CARLSON 7745

WWW.ROCKAUTO.COM

 

But, it just occurred to me that I searched for '76 pistons.  They don't list pistons for a '72 Tii.  Maybe they're bigger.  (?)  They do list the same pistons for a '72 carbureted car, so I guess they must not be the same.

 

Chances are, the ones in your calipers are still fine.  I had two deeply pitted ones in mine, so I bought replacements.

 

Tom

Edited December 27, 2022 by '76mintgrün'02

[kbmb02]

On 12/26/2022 at 6:59 AM, jimk said:

They are Ken, but the purpose of the post was to shed some light on what goes into an oil and why.  Racing oils have certain properties and everyday oils have others.  But neither excel in all properties.

 

 

I understand, @jimk  - but when the info and comparisons end up promoting a specific (sponsored) product line, there's a risk of blurry science (whether real or perceived). -KB  

 

(btw - I have a Banks turbo kit in my Ford 7.3 F250 Super Duty - and like it.)

[jimk]

3 hours ago, kbmb02 said:

(btw - I have a Banks turbo kit in my Ford 7.3 F250 Super Duty - and like it.)

I guess it just blows you away 😁

[0257]

Cooking a freshly bought warmup regulator today, pleased that it seals very tight at 10mm of extension.  At the same time, at 68F the cone sits a couple of millimeters south of flush.  So I’m going to try to loosen and spin the cone counterclockwise a turn or two to correct that.

 

Any reason anyone can think of why the PO would have deliberately set this WUR to be too low at 68F?  It’s pretty clear it has been adjusted in the past, as the 3mm set screw is turned toward the armature such that I could barely fit a standard 3mm Allen wrench to it without interference.

[Pablo M]

Suspension and brake refresh progressing.
While I have everything apart I’m cleaning, scuffing and painting some things. It’s just spray paint, not powder coating, and definitely not concourse level, but it makes me happy. 
and it’s raining outside. 
 

 

[Pablo M]

Used my Christmas present this morning. 
 

 

 

definitely needing coffee as well. Rear brakes ongoing. 

 

['76mintgrün'02]

20 minutes ago, Pablo M said:

Rear brakes ongoing. 

 

Here's a thread showing the top spring orientation, which is the opposite of how yours was installed.

 

FWIW,

Tom

[John76]

1 hour ago, '76mintgrün'02 said:

Here's a thread showing the top spring orientation,

The top spring should be installed with the hooks pointing out.

The long leg goes between the brake shoe and the parking brake lever.

Pablo @PabloM has it right....IMHO.

['76mintgrün'02]

Okay.  

You might as well post that here too.

 

 

[Leucadian]

Got Blunts Euro bumper kit installed on the front side (still waiting on the over riders to show up)

 

Overall, really satisfied with the way it came out.  The cover plates and plugs do the trick until I can get the bodywork done

 

 

Time to do the rear bumper

[Pablo M]

52 minutes ago, John76 said:

The top spring should be installed with the hooks pointing out.

The long leg goes between the brake shoe and the parking brake lever.

Pablo @PabloM has it right....IMHO.

Thanks. I had researched on here and that was what I came up with too-that the orientation of the spring was important and pointing in was not correct. 

[Pablo M]

Interspersed between the brake and suspension work I have going on at the moment I also took a moment to wrap the heater controls with brown carbon vinyl. This coordinates with the same I added to the door panel trim and will add it to the instrument cluster (where newer cars have wood). Corners aren’t perfect but will look acceptable once in. 
 

also added @mo02 decals, a Christmas gift. 
 

[D.martijn]

Finally made some more progress.

We started with fitting the outer rocker as previously we noticed that the little lip where the rear quarter panel get spotwelded onto was sitting to low. I also had to grind of a little of the slanted edge at the end of the rocker as it otherwise would not fit.

 

 

I later moved the little lip so it bends at the line 

 

Then it was time to start repairing the lip of the outer wheel well. only some small sections needed repair.
I did get the W&N repair panel but it's not the greatest quality

 

Most of these patches required some shrinking and stretching to get it to fit right with the panel

 

 

Also the rear lower lip needed some work. we still need to finish the actually lip of the arch

Some TIG rod and a chisel + hamering and we got pretty close to the original sealant rib

 

While I was busy repairing the wheel well, my brother cleaned up the inside of the support brace between the two shock towers to bare metal. finally he sprayed it with Brunox