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What did you do to your 2002 today !


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10 hours ago, d.hitchcock said:

irdave:

Ah OK, I get it then. Hard to miss the S14, of course. I was specifically asking about the way the upper mounting point for the struts had been modified. Sounds freakin' fantastic. Lots of work, I can tell.

 

 

Yeah, he made it so that when the strut alignment was appropriate, the sheetmetal was square with the top of the mounting plate.  It really was an obscene amount of work.  And the guy that was paying for it never got it to a point where he felt happy about it, which is really sad.  I think the scope of the project was just too big.  I think they both would be a little bummed if they saw how much of the work I've undone, but I think they'd both smile a bit if they drove it- works so much better now, and it's about to be even more better.  :)  (I've pulled over 300 pounds of crap out of the car so far... and there's still more to go.)

 

Fortunately for me, I have simpler tastes- hot-rod 2002 is all I want.

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Dave.

'76, totally stock. Completely.

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17 hours ago, d.hitchcock said:

irdave:

Ah OK, I get it then. Hard to miss the S14, of course. I was specifically asking about the way the upper mounting point for the struts had been modified. Sounds freakin' fantastic. Lots of work, I can tell.

 

From the pictures it looks like they cut the factory strut tower sheetmetal off of the firewall and took a pie cut out of the inner fender well. Then bent the strut tower down to the correct angle for the e30 m3 strut and welded it back together. The fab work looks good, just a little unfinished.

 

7 hours ago, irdave said:

 

Yeah, he made it so that when the strut alignment was appropriate, the sheetmetal was square with the top of the mounting plate.  It really was an obscene amount of work.  And the guy that was paying for it never got it to a point where he felt happy about it, which is really sad.  I think the scope of the project was just too big.  I think they both would be a little bummed if they saw how much of the work I've undone, but I think they'd both smile a bit if they drove it- works so much better now, and it's about to be even more better.  :) (I've pulled over 300 pounds of crap out of the car so far... and there's still more to go.)

 

Fortunately for me, I have simpler tastes- hot-rod 2002 is all I want.

Sounds like the previous owner was a perfectionist and the shop probably wasn't up to there high standards.

 

I think they would definitely agree you've improved it.

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Today, I stood in the shop cussing at my 2002 as I plan the front sub frame/engine/trans drop all so I can fix the leaky RMS housing gasket.
 

I’m really trying hard to avoid scope creep on this one.  I keep telling myself “You don’t need to blast and powder coat everything.  You don’t need to weld in the stiffener.  You don’t need to replace the ball joints, and all the rubber with poly.”   Yeah right!  You guys know where this is going....

Edited by Tdh
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OK so I am wondering what the purpose of this is?  

 

3490A74F-43A5-444D-9587-96CA1FC3B38E_1_105_c.jpeg

It is a cube of sponge like material from 1970 I am sure.  But why?  Here it is again from the side and pulled out a bit.

 

8E754564-C73D-4441-B272-0BEDAE3A0610_1_105_c.jpeg

And in case you are wondering why I care - I need to put it back in?  So it can catch more water and start the fifty year rust process over again?    I bet you Blunt has them?  ? 

 

CF3B036B-D5EF-4270-BA07-1FC245A73B69_1_105_c.jpeg

 

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On 1/30/2021 at 3:04 PM, 0257 said:

Apologies if this is the third time i have posted this, but the site is giving me fits today.  Managed to get the center link off — after the rear hub and spindle, the hardest thing I’ve done yet! — and drop the steering box.  Intend to rebuild using the Argentine parts imported for several of us by Rob Ford.  Several degrees of difficulty above either of the aforementioned jobs, I fear.

 

Hard to see in the attached photo, but my steering box cap originally was painted the same orange/red as the 177 boxes.  HAS ANYONE GOT THE PAINT COLOR CODE FOR THAT RED?

FEC30606-50D5-4916-9C13-DFE267096FC5.jpeg

indeed.  I tackled it for a bit and took a breather.  You are going to need to hone out the bushings.  You are going to have to machine off the worm gear and then weld? on the new one so it will never come off.  It is not for the faint of heart if you plan to use all the items in the kit.  I posted a bunch of my findings on it a while back before covid and my crazy decision to paint my car...

 

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Made a couple more firewall wiring harness / firewall isolation pad clips, they are a pretty much exact copy of the originals, make a small die press with the 3D printer.

These are used in the inside/trunk area as well. If you're interested in purchasing a set.. feel free to send a PM

 

50898645781_2eb91fa163_b.jpg

Edited by D.martijn
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After I had the F7 emulsion tubes to get around the lean spot I had a problem with WOT at 2.5-3 krpm -so rich it started coughing and bogging.

Recently I met a guy with 15+ years dyno experience on some of the best dynos in the world (Mercedes F1) looked at my dyno data and recommended using even longer trumpets.

So I went for 90 mm instead of the 75mm - and it was even worse - then went back with my jetting from 145/F7/180-60F8 to what I had before 145/F9/180 (but still keeping the 60F8) it was ok, but still not good. Then went back to the Idle Jet I had before the experiment with the F7 Emulsion tubes -55F6- and what can I say: my car is now so nice to drive- At 3.4 volts at the TPS (about cruising) where I always was very lean I now am near 14.someting - bingo. So the +15mm trumpets really did a trick. I'll confirm torque data on the dyno when I'm back on summer tires.

Edited by uai
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Spent the day Kuglefischering

Ive been experiencing a slowly increasing miss on my Tii, barely noticeable until recently.

Changed out the WUR as a job I’ve been putting off for ages, and heaps of other ignition work. So the old girl was laid up for a few weeks.

On startup the car ran poorly with the miss much more pronounced.

So investigation started

Timing check

Fuel pressure check

Valves check (needed doing anyway)

Broke out the trusty (and now crusty) injection manual.

  • Started by pulling plug leads, #3 was not a happy Chappy 
  • All ignition side checked out fine.
  • Loosened the injection pipes one at a time, pump end, each one leaked fuel out of the threads, engine note chagnged for all except the feed for #3 (no fuel leakage)
  • Ah ha we have the culprit
  • Swapped suction valves between 3+4 positions on the pump.
  • No change #3 no worky still no fuel coming out of delivery valve
  • Swapped the delivery valves around still no fuel at #3
  • Engine note changes for all other valves which leaked fuel

Looks like I’ve found the culprit!

So it’s off for a recon pump, won’t be cheap but it’s another new part for the old girl.

This must be the longest rolling resto (otherwise known as maintenance ?)

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9 minutes ago, John76 said:

Text Missing

 

Cleaned the Grill

 

My wife asked..."Hon, can you clean the grill for Super Bowl Sunday?"

Me..."Yes Dear, I'll  get right on it!"

 

Came out nice.

 

Doc said the stitches can come out in about a week.

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