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mike472

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Everything posted by mike472

  1. mike472
    I have been eyeballing this system since I saw Eurotrash post about it. It looks like a great alternative to stock. Did you size up the space required? What are you using for a condenser and compressor? I like this unit because you can probably use the original cable controls and you get everything in one unit. A little fabbing is required but what you end up with is a modern blower and evap that probably moves a lot more air then any of the clardy, Behr or fridgiking units available. You have no fresh air with this but I don't think it makes much difference. Hoses have to be run up to the existing heater hoses but that's no big deal. Please take a couple of photos when you do it. On my list of future projects for the Inka gangster.
  2. mike472
    You probably did not install the Petronix in the right spot. You have to position it so it is triggering as the rotor hits a terminal in the distributor cap, or close to it. You should make sure it is timed right after you do this. You should be able to turn the distributor a little til you get it to start then time it with a light with the ball appearring in the window of the bellhousing at 1500 rpm
  3. mike472
    Don't buy a rust bucket! You'll spend way more bringing it back then if you just bought one thats in solid shape that someone else already spent the money on. You should also not get hung up on getting a tii. Any 02 is fun and can be set up to perform just about as good as a tii with a Weber 2 barrel. Concentrate on getting a good car with lots of the hard work done already. Your money will go a lot further. Spend time perusing this forum and you'll see lots of great cars for sale. Be patient and don't jump on the first thing you see. Don't bite off more then you can chew with a car that needs everything. You might get burnt out doing it all and it may stop being fun and become an anchor around your neck! It can take a lot of time to do a proper ground up restoration or resto-mod. I started with a bare rust free shell on one of my projects and I just getting it back together after a year and a half. I am not in a rush to finish it because I have another daily driver to get my 02 fix. You may want more immediate gratification.
  4. mike472
    The heat shield is piece #9 in the main drawing: http://www.penskeparts.com/DiagramsMain.aspx?vid=47140&rnd=03192010
  5. mike472
    That little yellow zinc plated cover is a separate piece. It usually comes taped to the new center bearing. Make sure you get one. You will definitely accelerate the wear of your bearing without it. If you really want to be complete, get the heat shield that protects the center bearing rubber from getting cooked by the center muffler. You can actually make that from a piece of scrap sheet metal pretty easily.
  6. mike472
    Don't forget the little dust cover that shield crap from getting in the bearing that goes on first before you drive the center bearing back on.
  7. mike472
    All you need is a 24mm box wrench that's been ground down a little thinner to fit in the joint. Once you start loosening the nut try a screwdriver to start pushing the two pieces apart or else there won't be any room to take the nut off. Getting your new center bearing off and turned around without messing it up may be a little tough. Problem is its easy enough to drive it down onto the shaft. There is no good way to pull it off without destroying it.
  8. mike472
    What! No pictures of the cut up remains? I want to see the entrails.
  9. mike472
    How much for the intank fuel pump/sending unit?
  10. mike472
    Tim I'm curious. Did you put anything at all in the holes? I would think unless the decal is really thick, you would see little indentations where the holes are.
  11. mike472
    I just celebrated 28 years on 7/1. You know you're BMW adled when The only wedding gift You remember and still have is a factory shop manual for a 733i given to you by a fellow NJ chapter member.(hi Steve) Congratulations!
  12. mike472
    that's correct... btw, i wonder if one of those center mufflers would work as a single rear muffler...how loud might they be I don't think it would work because the rear muffler in their system and most stock style mufflers are basically round shaped to clear the gas tank, the IE center piece is made in a thinner wider oval shape to give you ground clearance and not hit the driveshaft. It would definitely have clearance problems if you tried to install it in the rear even if it was plumbed properly.
  13. mike472
    Those HF 1.5 ton jacks are nice for changing tires at the track, but if you want a great shop jack go to costco and buy an Arcon 3 ton jack for $99. It is heavy duty goes low, lifts high and best of all, it's got a long reach. You can jack up the whole front or rear of your car in one shot. You will not be lifting this jack in and out of your trunk, but that's not what it's for. It's a great shop jack. I agree with Marshall on the 1.5 ton jacks being a little dicey. The 3 tons HF versions are good. You can get a pair of 5 ton stands at sears that will let you get the car high enough to drop the engine from underneath.
  14. mike472
    Use a 1/2 inch socket and breaker bar to tighten the clamps. I did that after mine slipped a little. I have one of IE's new designs and I love it. It's got just the right amount of a nice sound coming out the tailpipe without wearing on you.
  15. mike472
    Basically what Simeon said is an Italian tuneup. A good 1/2 hour highway drive will help in 4th between 3500 and 4000 RPM. It will help keep the carbon off the valves. You should also be using 20w50 weight in the summer months or warm weather areas. 10w40 is good in cold weather when the temperature really drops. 20w50 is a little thicker in viscosity and less likely to get sucked down the valve guides. You might try a good synthetic oil like Redline or Amsoil to help free things up a little too. It's good you used a little thinner oil for a car that's been sitting awhile. The thinner oil might help dissolve some of the sludge in the engine. Give it a good run then dump it for the thicker oil.
  16. mike472
    Sounds like valve stem seals if it only happens on deceleration. Once you close the throttle at higher speeds you create a high vacuum in the combustion chamber which will draw down oil through worn valve guides and/or valve stem seals. They may have dried out in storage and broke up when you started the engine. Newer seals that BMW now uses require new style guides and do a better job of sealing. You can also get Teflon stem seals that are even better if you want to go the extra mile. These require machining the end of your valve guides to put a groove in to hold the seal on. Head has to come off and if you have to take it apart you may want to think about just having it rebuilt by a competent shop that has the proper tools. Do a compression test before you take anything apart so you know the general condition of the engine. Try an Italian tune up first to free up anything that might be stuck. By the way, did you change the oil?
  17. mike472
    Interested in the center console for the manual transmission. Do you have the rubber boot? mikekatsoris@gmail.com
  18. mike472
    Tried again and it works fine. Sorry to bother you
  19. mike472
    Have a set of Metric Mechanic bars that are similar to IE bars that attach to subframe in front. $125 for front and rear. Use email button
  20. mike472
    You should have pointed the camera out the front window dude! I could barely hear the engine but did notice you broke 100mph from a fleeting glimpse of the speedometer. Need more drama from you.
  21. mike472
    Mikekatsoris@gmail.com
  22. mike472
    If it turns out to be the timing chain it's not too hard to do. You will have to take off the front covers and get gaskets and front crank pulley seal. You need the proper socket 30mm for the crank pulley nut and an impact driver. You'll need the chain, the tensioning rail, and the plastic guide. Align the cam sprocket mark with mark before you take the sprocket and chain off. You will need to take off tension plug and release spring pressure. When you put the parts back on and the bottom cover is in place, fill the small reservoir around the end of the tensioner and pry the piston in and out a few times with a screwdriver to burp any air out of it. Put enough oil in to keep the end of the piston submerged in oil. You will noticeably feel an increase In resistance as the air bleeds out. If your front lower cover was off the engine and you didn't do this burping of the tensioner you will have mucho noise. This might also have happened if you removed the tensioner plug and spring and didn't burp it afterwards. You can do it from above with the valve cover off using a long screwdriver to pry the tensioners back and forth. You will see bubbles coming out until its bled. Hope this is your problem because it's easy to fix.
  23. mike472
    If it turns out to be the timing chain it's not too hard to do. You will have to take off the front covers and get gaskets and front crank pulley seal. You need the proper socket 30mm for the crank pulley nut and an impact driver. You'll need the chain, the tensioning rail, and the plastic guide. Align the cam sprocket mark with mark before you take the sprocket and chain off. You will need to take off tension plug and release spring pressure. When you put the parts back on and the bottom cover is in place, fill the small reservoir around the end of the tensioner and pry the piston in and out a few times with a screwdriver to burp any air out of it. Put enough oil in to keep the end of the piston submerged in oil. You will noticeably feel an increase In resistance as the air bleeds out. If your front lower cover was off the engine and you didn't do this burping of the tensioner you will have mucho noise. This might also have happened if you removed the tensioner plug and spring and didn't burp it afterwards. You can do it from above with the valve cover off using a long screwdriver to pry the tensioners back and forth. You will see bubbles coming out until its bled. Hope this is your problem because it's easy to fix.
  24. mike472
    Steve Got on your website but the store link just hung there not opening. The other links there worked fine. I am using an iPad . Don't know what's going on but wanted to let you know
  25. mike472
    Steve Your link doesn't seem to be working
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