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mike472

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Everything posted by mike472

  1. mike472
    That port is not throttled and is suitable for your MAP sensor
  2. mike472
    Connect your MAP vacuum line to a port on the manifold, not the throttled vacuum port on the carb. That's for a vacuum advance connection to a stock distributor.
  3. mike472
    Pat, I never heard back from you on my order. Please let me know if you have a unit for me and I will send you the dough. Thanks, Mike
  4. mike472
    Here's a couple
  5. mike472
    Rob was kind enough to offer them to me for free when I emailed him. Thanks for enlightening me anyway.
  6. mike472
    Rob I'll need them for the wheels on your former car. Let me know how you would like payment. Hope all is well with you. Mike
  7. mike472
    It's tough not to go all the way with trim and everything if your doing a repaint. Choose the color you want. I was never crazy about that Anthracite metallic. The important thing is that you strip the car of every part before painting if you change the color. After you get the car back painted looking mint you're going to hate putting a shitty piece back on it. Take my word for it, do it once and do it right,even if it takes a little more time. Find yourself another car to drive while this is going on. And I think your estimate is low unless you are doing the paint job yourself. Even then it's easy to spend 10k in parts. That's not even rebuilding the engine. I have experienced it firsthand. It's called "mission creep" The best thing to do is hang around this forum for a while till you get an education on all the things you might want to do. I wish I had spent more time reading myself before I jumped into a couple of things I did. Could have saved myself a few headaches. Ask questions and ye shall be answered.
  8. mike472
    Plug every open hose and hole including carb. Saran or stretch film comes in handy for wrapping over an opening. As Blunt mentioned It would be good to put it away with fresh oil. A year is nothing. Even two. As long as it's inside you're good.
  9. mike472
    Pat Please put me down for one. Just let me know the details. Thanks
  10. mike472
    Pat Do you still have any of these left? Thanks
  11. mike472
    9.3 pistons with E21 Korman stage 2 head with dual springs and titanium retainers. Megasquirt with 325i throttle body and 318i manifold. Oil pan wind age and baffle plates. Tii exhaust manifold into IE exhaust system.
  12. mike472
    I think Ireland has a throttle rod that works with this conversion. Been thinking about making this switch myself. I have a 32/36 with quick link that seems good but I think I'd rather have a carb that was designed to have synchronous opening of both barrels. I would be interested to hear your opinion after you solve your throttle linkage problem. Also where did you purchase and did they give you jetting that was good for your car? Good luck
  13. mike472
    Put it in a blast cabinet and blast away. It's the only way to make it look really good. I did this with my Harbor freight $225 cabinet. You need to seal it with something to keep it looking clean and to be able to clean it. It is a porous surface so any stain you get on it embeds itself into the aluminum. Even if you try to clean it it will not come back to the way it looked when you took it out of the blaster. I used POR15 in the clear version on this 318i manifold. If you blast it and don't coat it, you'll leave a smudge every time you touch it. You have to wash it with soap and hot water to make sure you get any grit out. After drying, give it a spray down with brake cleaner and paint with a brush. Use a decent brush. I can't tell you how annoying it is trying to pluck brush hairs out of an otherwise perfect paint job. The POR15 lays down nice and flat with a nice gloss even though you are using a brush. Don't brush it on to heavy as you will get runs. Watch it as it begins to dry so you can brush away any impending runs.
  14. mike472
    None of those vacuum holes should be used for the distributor. You would use the vacuum port on your two barrel carb that is ahead of the throttle plate. It is the upper one of two on a Weber 32/36. All of those vacuum ports will need a short piece of rubber vacuum hose with a plug unless you want to crimp them shut and weld same. The only vacuum pipe you need is the big one near cylinder #4 for the brake vacuum booster. The other holes are for various brackets and attachments that you are probably not going to use.
  15. mike472
    Great pictures and beautiful car. My first BMW was a 1965 1800. That was in 1971. I always loved the character of those NK's and extra nices touches in the details that are kind of missing in the 02. Especially the TISA.
  16. mike472
    Question: did you run the dual weber engine? It looks nice but I hope the insides are not like the outside of the beast! If it runs well, I would put that engine in the stock looking verona car. That Malaga car looks rusty. I have to vote for the Verona car getting whatever good stuff is on the rat. Sell the rest.
  17. mike472
    I don't think factory replacement engines are stamped with any numbers. I'm not sure why BMW did that. I would assume the dealers were supposed to stamp the original number there when they replaced an engine. I found I had a factory replacement engine in my parts car that was only about 10K miles old along with a dealer's receipt for it. No numbers were stamped in the block near the starter.
  18. mike472
    Nitrous.... It's not just for breakfast
  19. mike472
    Work your suspension with tires and wheels first, then shocks bars and springs. I chose IE's stage 1 setup with Bilsteins. This is the Best bang for the buck for me when I get a new car. The engine shit is nice but this stuff should come first. Give you engine a good going over as far as timing, points, plugs, wires, etc. Very few modern cars will handle as well as this setup will on a twisty road. If you want a drag racer, by a chebby.
  20. mike472
    Thats perfect. Now your riding mechanic in the back seat can monitor your oil pressure.
  21. mike472
    Loosen the four bolts that hold the diff from the bottom. It should move back a little and relieve the pressure on your guibo. After you do that get one lobe of the driveshaft and trans flange at 12 o'clock and the other at 6 o'clock and take note of the gap at each position. Shim center bearing down with washers until the gap is even at top and bottom of guibo. Don't want that guibo flexing as the driveshaft turns.
  22. mike472
    It happens to the best of us.
  23. mike472
    You have the main MS ECU but no relay board. It doesn't look like it was completed as there are still some things that need to be assembled from what I can see in your picture. It looks 95% done. I hope you have the build manual. Its easy enough to get if you dont. You would just need the relay board and cable which will cost you a couple of hundred bucks. You can take the stock route for now but I don't think its going to be very easy to modify for use with the turbo. No adjustability unless you piggyback some sort of enrichment device onto it. I'm sure people on the forum have done this but in the end, the MS is better as far as adjustability. Your choice.
  24. mike472
    Take a look at the Penske parts microfiche online and you will see the changes on parts through all the model years. A book would be thick and hard to use compared to the microfiche. I don't think that's what Henry had in mind for his new book.
  25. mike472
    I'll second that. Much easier to post any photo. Thanks Steve!
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