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mike472

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Everything posted by mike472

  1. mike472
    Love that Inka! Better then a third brake light or daytime running lights for getting people's attention.
  2. mike472
    Here are two shots of the disc/caliper setup. It's real critical how thick the two spacer washers are that go between the bracket and the caliper. You only have a small amount of clearance on either side of the disc. Too far one way or the other and the disc will rub the caliper and not turn at all or will be scraping slightly. My ideal washer thickness for the two washers was .24". Calipers were a little difficult to get over the discs with new pads but they wear in pretty quick. Put calipers on without the pads first to get things lined up. Nice power in the brakes now. Balanced well too. I didn't take any other photos of the setup unfortunately. Will try to take some with the wheel off. You will have to get your hubs off and have them turned down on a lathe to fit the rotors over them. Otherwise pretty straightforward. A set of brake tubing bending tools front Eastwood comes in handy too. The IE kit comes with a brake tubing kit with flexible and hard lines and the hardware to connect your e brake cable.
  3. mike472
    Buy an 11mm hydraulic fitting wrench so you don't strip the nuts taking them off the next time. It looks like a box wrench with a gap cut into it so you can get it over the tubing and down onto the brake line nut. This tool will not round off and strip the nuts like you did taking it off. I usually use it to break the nut loose, then you can use an open end. Definitely reuse he booster if it holds a vacuum. MC is a tough call. It depends on a lot of things; age, maintenance done, visible leaks on the outside, fluid inside the booster when you take off the MC.
  4. mike472
    Used the E21 MC with this big wilwood kit on my 76 and I even used it on my Inka car with smaller disc kit that uses the bigger calipers up front and the VW discs and calipers in back. I had a lot of pedal travel with the stock MC with this smaller disc kit. I am sure it would be much worse with the wilwood kit. This removes a lot of that travel in the brake pedal and will get you a faster reaction from the brakes as you are moving a lot more brake fluid with every stroke As far as matching the mounting holes with the new MC, I had no problem mating to the stock booster or tii booster. On a stock system you would need a tee and a short male to male 10mm brake line to split the one outlet into two on the bottom of the new MC. With the wilwood kit this isn't necessary and will will need to plug one port that isn't used with the single circuit system.
  5. mike472
    How about estorilblau? almost finished.
  6. mike472
    Rob, I was great meeting you last thursday at the NJ chapter meeting. You completely faked me out by shaving off your beard and mustache. I was wondering who the projector operator was, then I realized it was you! All kidding aside it was a great presentation and you were very gracious in spending time with everyone. We all enjoyed it. If they do make a movie out of your book I think Danny Devito would be an excellent choice for the part of you.
  7. mike472
    Congratulations Rob People will be dropping to their knees now and proclaiming "we're not worthy" like Wayne and Garth. Seriously speaking, I wish you well in your new writing career. I have enjoyed your column for years. see you Thursday night at the NJ chapter meeting.
  8. mike472
    Good luck finishing in two weeks. If you rush it you'll make a mistake. Take your time and be careful putting everything back on your car. It's easy to scratch the paint putting the trim and other various items on. Looks great though. Good luck!
  9. mike472
    It's posing as someone who cares about how their car handles.
  10. mike472
    Mike I'm not sure and you may be right. His email is 9grenzen@gmail.com for anyone whose interested. Count me in on being a Luddite. My E36 had the broken neck just like clockwork at 60K. I like the stock look too even though those polished fancy jobs sure look good! And they're all metal too.
  11. mike472
    this is with IE stage 1 no spacers in front and 15x6 wheels with 195/50s. Pretty flat look and handles great. Offset is perfect on the wheels
  12. mike472
    This was for a stock 2002 not an Alpina motor with cam and higher compression. The Alpina motors used 3-5degrees advance.
  13. mike472
    Mark Preisendorf at Silicon Garage will recore your original brass tank radiator with a three row copper core. Works great. That along with a new thermostat and your good to go. Preserve your stock look and it has more capacity then the plastic tank 320i radiator. Think it's close to $400. Worth the piece of mind of knowing your cooling system can handle whatever climate you throw at it. Especially if you have A/C
  14. mike472
    Good luck with it! It looks great.
  15. mike472
    Take your time and spend some quality time reading the FAQ! You are succumbing to the "gotta have all the shit I can slather onto this thing" syndrome like many people do. The basic disc kit that IE sells and that you can put together yourself is more then you can use. Unless you were looking for that last tenth of a second per lap at the track maybe, but you're a long way from that if you don't mind my saying so. Wish I had spent more time reading myself when I first got on the forum. It will really help you distill your thoughts about your whole game plan with the car.
  16. mike472
    I would just get the kit from IE and you'll have everything you need. The trickiest thing is getting the thickness of the washers that space the caliper from the adapter bracket. This is a trial and error thing as IE supplies a couple of washers to get the caliper centered on the rotor. I don't know if this varies from car to car. I wouldn't think it would but I used a thick from IE and a thin washer I had in my hardware collection that added up to .24 or a hair under a quarter inch. You have to put a couple of lug nuts on with a spacer to snug the rotor against the hub to see if your caliper is rubbing on the rotor when checking for proper clearance. This kit along with the volvo front BBK will give you all the brakes you will ever need and then some. The emergency brake works well. One other comment I would make is your brake pedal will seem a little low if your using the stock master cylinder. A tii master would give you a little less travel because of its bigger bore. You can even use a 320i master which I think is an even bigger bore for a higher pedal with an adapter to split one outlet into two on the bottom. If you don't need an MC I would just leave it. You will love the way your car stops with this setup.
  17. mike472
    Matt, When you say you moved the fuel line, which portion did you move? The section from the firewall to the fuel pump? Thats the only section near engine. I guess the fuel expands as it soaks heat from stopped engine and overflows the bowl through the vent onto the manifold. This may very well be. Besides the fuel spillage another side effect from this is a little problem with getting the engine to kick right off. It seems as if some fuel is spilling into the manifold causing a slight flooding situation. If I hold the throttle half way for a second or two she'll start well enough but you can tell it takes about 30 seconds of running to clear its throat but then settles into a nice idle. In the morning when its cold it starts almost instantly and settles right into a nice idle immediately. I have not tried plugging the secondary enrichment hole as per CD's instruction. I am trusting Ryan on this one as he said he has tried it with no improvement. I wondered if plugging it might keep fuel from getting into the manifold when the engine heats the fuel up. I even tried raising the float level a little higher then 40mm to keep the fuel lower in the bowl, but this resulted in the engine running lousy as the engine sounded like it was starving for fuel.
  18. mike472
    Ryan's prescription is a good one and I started out with it. I bought some new different jets for the primary idle: .57, .55,.52,.50. 60 was to rich. The car runs just right with the .52. It's stock with no other mods other then IEs exhaust manifold. Car runs great with this setup with no heavy unburied hydrocarbon smell in the cabin. One problem I keep having is fuel spill on top of the manifold. I have a plastic float and I set the level to 40 but still getting leakage from the vent. Carb has new needle jet and was completely gone through. This has me kind of baffled. Mike K
  19. mike472
    Who are "they"?
  20. mike472
    Same as mike above said I make a rope out 3M strip caulk usually available at an auto body supply shop. It is super sticky and you can make a rope of it by rolling a few pieces of it together between your palms. Try to keep the thickness consistent. Run this piece of rope around the face of your heater box and then press the box up onto the two studs under the dash and tighten down on it with the two nuts and washers gradually until you hit bottom on each side. Much better then that original foam. Remember to put the brown ground wire back on the drivers side. Try to position the caulk so that it is near the edge of the opening through the sheet metal. You want it to squeeze out where you can see it from the engine compartment side. The idea is to not leave a crevice that can hold water.
  21. mike472
    Rob Congratulations on the book hitting the big time. Please don't forget us "little people" now that you're famous!
  22. mike472
    Great car. Good luck with it. My first BMW was a '65 1800 and seeing this was a kick. It's great that you have a decent rust free body. I'm sure you put in plenty of hours on this.
  23. mike472
    You might be able to glue in little plastic scraps to replace the pieces that broke off with the JB weld. Make sure the fan blades clears whatever patch work you do.
  24. mike472
    Have the same wheels and got mine from Steve. Watch which socket you use. You need a thin wall socket as there's not much clearance in the pocket. Watch out you don't chip the paint taking the socket and nut out of the pocket. Try to pull it straight off and not cock it to one side or the other.
  25. mike472
    Are factory door seals available again? Last time I tried from blunt they were NLA
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