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Everything posted by mike472

  1. Carl, Finally got this done and thanks for making it so much easier to do. Only correction to your parts list would be to use a 15" long swedged tube for the connection to pedal box. 16" is too long. I bought a 15.5 and a 15 to try. Nice and smooth now. Also bought a blue bellcrank to match the car! You really hit this one out of the park. The throttle feel is so good now with the pedal feel going back to what stock was. Nice linear action and the travel is perfect. I had to zip tie the throttle cable up to keep it out of the way of the throttle arm on the throttle body.
  2. I have one you might be interested in although its not an original Inka car, or a roundie. It's a 74 I have owned for about 9 years that was originally Sahara. I have done a lot of work to the car over those years and can get into the details with you if your are interested. Shoot me a PM Here is the link to the car here on the forum:
  3. Looking for both bumpers and trim. I want upper trim. Not sure if you meant the chrome or plastic lower trim. Thanks, Mike
  4. Blue caps are for shipping. Assuming you tugged on track rod joints and they were still tight. Check your idler arm bushing once you have track rod off of it. Grab it and see if you can flex it up and down. That might cause your shimmy too and if you haven't replaced it in your forays into your front end you should. Also make sure you have the heat shield that went over it to keep the rubber bushing from getting cooked by your exhaust manifold. This shield is missing from many cars I see and it makes those bushing go bad quick. Easy to make something if you dont have it. Bolts to motor mount I believe. Stainless is nice if you have a piece it out of. Paint burns off quick and rust starts.
  5. Steve I hate it too Thanks for the compliment. its a ‘76 and I repainted it’s original Malaga with Estorilblau that 1st came out on the 96 M3 I almost went fiord but wanted something completely different. I love my Boxster Spyder but it teaches you nothing. The 2002 is training for driving cars like the Spyder and 456. You can also include sketchy handling early 911’s. Those cars will make a driver out of you.
  6. Steve, you didn’t miss anything. Same kind of people here that you have found in your E9 experiences. The original poster of this thread has yet to explain in something other then nebulous terms what he finds so disquieting about our group. Mike
  7. Sad day? And here I was thinking that someone we knew and loved had died
  8. 60 seems a little rich. Maybe that’s why the adjustment has little or no effect. Try 50 or 55. This might be a stupid question but did you take it off and give it a good blowout with compressed air and plenty of gum out? if all else fails do yourself and Hampton a favor and ditch that thing for a 38/38 DGAS. Really makes a big difference over that 32/36
  9. Congratulations! Ludwig’s lucky to have you for a custodian Mike
  10. Marty, Now that you mention it I remember that story about the rings. I have to go check the block number again to see if it matches the car. I could be wrong. Thanks for reminding me. Damned guest workers! Mike
  11. Steve, A lot of 74’s had bad engines that had problems with cylinder bores being tapered or out of round. They were fixed by BMW. Maybe they re bored this one before it left the factory. I think the records were good and looking at the cars condition when I got it seemed to bear out its mileage. It burns very little oil since I replaced the head and even before it didn’t use that much. It had a bad crack in one intake runner that didn’t show up on initial inspection. I thought it would be a simple head gasket job. No dice. Had to take it apart again. One clue I should have picked up was water in my air filter housing. With closed valves and a hot engine it was percolating up into it. One new head casting later the engine was running great. Having Korman rebuild it for me didn’t hurt either. Mike
  12. I didn’t really think this was an overbore. The car seemed to have 51k on it from the records it came with and the speedo reading. I wouldn’t have thought it needed to be rebuilt that early and it is the original block. It was originally delivered in New Mexico. I have the original bill of sale and window sticker that came with the car. I figure I’m the 5th owner from what I see in the records. Some rust is beginning to surface and it’s time to do this one before the tinworm really ruins it. Spare tire well and front valance starting to go. All critical areas are rust free. At least the mechanicals are sorted. As we all know there is always something else left to do.... but it’s fun! Esty just sent me a rear seat delete kit for the blue car. Working on that tomorrow.
  13. Just got exercised along with the one behind it
  14. Scott i still own the car. 9 years now. Runs great with the new Korman rebuilt head I put on it. CR is 8.31-1 I think. It needs a paint job but it’s still in great shape I still have my estorilblau car too. Don’t use me as an authority on the fine points regarding compression ratios. The car is certainly not original but was in great shape when I bought it. Still is Mike
  15. That wide band O2 sensor is indeed a good way to begin. Even if you went the 38/38 route it will help you get the most out of your carburetor jetting. Innovate makes a nice digital one that’s easy to install.
  16. Read a lot... then read some more. You’ve got the right steps but the devils in the details. Go to the MS site and read posts here. Sounds simple but it’s not. A lot to consider. You will wind up with a smooth, powerful(if you do it right) and an economical fuel system if you can keep your foot out of it. Or, save yourself a lot of headaches and bolt on a 38/38 Weber instead of your 32/36 and a programmable distributor. I have two cars one with each system and they’re both great in their own ways. One for its simplicity and the other for the ultimate tunable fuel/ignition system producin
  17. I screwed mine into the sheet metal down low near door and at the top. I think I may have a screw at the bottom Towards the front of the car too. I’ll try to snap a few photos for you. Use countersunk screws with standoff rings in chrome or black that won’t pull though the carpet or Jason’s fiberglass panel.
  18. This question hasn't been posted in a while at least in my brief search for same. I would sacrifice a little Extreme Summer performance for a little softer ride and wet grip. Any ideas? I see Yoko S-drives are being superseded by others. What your take on the current best tires out there and a brief opinion on why. Going on Rota R20's 6x15 Alpina reps Thanks Mike
  19. John Wilhoit out in California uses a hotter up VW engine in a lot of his clients cars 150hp or so. Puts the original on the shelf for preservation of value and originality and uses the VW for practicalities sake. Not to mention more horsepower then the original. They push 175 horsepower in some bored and stroked versions. Trouble with Holy Grails is you usually can’t drive them.
  20. It’s good to see all the original posters are still around. After over 40 years of making mistakes and hopefully learning from them I haven’t done anything recently without giving it a lot of thought. No more incandescent throttle return springs in my life. I did however put ground control coil overs in one of my cars and don’t regret it. It only took me about 45 years to think it over!
  21. And here I thought this was just for luxury cars. My 2018 Range Rover has it and its the first time I've seen it. I haven't had a chance to use it yet. Kinda hope I don't
  22. It’s a blast to drive and makes a nice counterpoint to the 02. Counterpoint being the 02 makes you work for it!
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