Jump to content


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Feedback


Community Reputation

65 Excellent


About mike472

  • Birthday 04/26/1953

Profile Information

  • Gender Array
  • Location Array
  • Interests Array

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. John Wilhoit out in California uses a hotter up VW engine in a lot of his clients cars 150hp or so. Puts the original on the shelf for preservation of value and originality and uses the VW for practicalities sake. Not to mention more horsepower then the original. They push 175 horsepower in some bored and stroked versions. Trouble with Holy Grails is you usually can’t drive them.
  2. It’s good to see all the original posters are still around. After over 40 years of making mistakes and hopefully learning from them I haven’t done anything recently without giving it a lot of thought. No more incandescent throttle return springs in my life. I did however put ground control coil overs in one of my cars and don’t regret it. It only took me about 45 years to think it over!
  3. And here I thought this was just for luxury cars. My 2018 Range Rover has it and its the first time I've seen it. I haven't had a chance to use it yet. Kinda hope I don't
  4. It’s a blast to drive and makes a nice counterpoint to the 02. Counterpoint being the 02 makes you work for it!
  5. I think you may have Frozen calipers and/or wheels cylinders. You can have a solid pedal with frozen calipers. Also a rolling shell going down your driveway is not a proper test of your brakes. Have you tried taking the pads out and attempting to push the pistons back into the caliper? Bet they’re not moving like they should. If you bought this car and never looked at this stuff you owe it to yourself and your safety to do so. Don’t go adjusting linkages. In my experience it’s the simple stuff that is usually the problem. All you will do is screw things up even further if you start messing with the pushrod adjustment. The picot points may wear but the adjustment shouldn’t be used to compensate for worn parts. This adjustment should stay the same
  6. I think you need to look at the float level and the check valve on the inlet to float bowl. I think it needs to be 2.25 instead of 2. My carb was sized too small. Look on the forum and you’ll see plenty on this from CD and others including me. 175 is way to big on the main jet. I’m running 50 idles and 140 mains with 175 air correcters I believe. Car was starving for fuel until I fixed these two issues and put the bigger outlet mechanical 6 cylinder M30 fuel pump on. You will starve for gas at higher speed otherwise. Especially extended acceleration runs where you have the pedal buried for a while. Your low speed stall is probably something to do with float level and the check valve. I think you are compensating for this with the super large main jets. No way they should be that big. The float levels are different for plastic vs brass floats. My level was way low and it wasn’t getting enough gas into the main jets on transition from idle jets. I am running a Korman head with K300 cam and this car runs great with above setup. Motor is stock compression.
  7. I love the look and feel of these Rota R20 Alpina replicas. They are 6x15 and I’m running 195/50’s. I have H&R’s with HD Bilsteins and it feels perfect. Nice ride and light tire and wheel combo. A nice street setup with easy steering. They just became available again and I bought a second set for spares. Handling is sharp and steering feel is better then the 15x7 setup. The car doesn’t feel overtired at around town speeds. I found a guy in Great Britain who had the perfect Alpina decals to go with them and bought a few sets. The Estorilblau car has 7x15 3 piece BBS et25’s with 205/50’s on it. It has a little rub problem with the Bridgestone RE71’s. I have a spacer in front because the tire is rubbing the strut. It’s not too bad but annoying non the less. I wanted to go to a Ground control coil over setup to get rid of the spacers and get a little more negative camber to help the rub. Definitely has a heavier steering feel but with more grip running the same RE71’s. If you want to run big brakes like the Ireland Wilwood setup you need wheels that will clear them. Not all 7x15’s do. If you want to track your car at all I’d go for this setup. Lots of stuff to consider.
  8. In the mid 70's a car tuner by the name of Jack Clark out of Closter, NJ brought a tii up to Lime Rock that had the Alpina injection setup and a nice new set of Michelin XWX's in 185/70-13 mounted on a Ronal wheels. It was the first time I had ever seen XWX's in a 13" size. Back then you usually saw those only on high end sports cars. I know they are recreating those in different sizes these days and this makes me wonder if they are making in 13" sizes again too. They had a really interesting looking tread pattern. Dog biscuit I'd call it. The stock XAS's I remember were easy to lock up go into a slide when it was wet. Really good in the dry though. I wonder how much better these recreations are then the originals. Thanks to modern tech in rubber and construction they are probably a lot better.
  9. Bravo! Glad it’s coming together for you. Car looks good. I knew you’d get it done.
  10. I'm using Amsoil 20w50 with zinc additive. It's been good on the consumption side. I've started my car in 10-15 degree weather and it idled albeit a little shaky at first. I am careful in that kind of weather to let the engine idle for at least a minute or two. I worry about the pressure relief valve sticking and blowing the filter off when it's that cold. As pumps get old the bore of the relief valve in the aluminum body wears making it easier for that steel piston to cock a little and jam shut. I used a new pump when I rebuilt my engine to help avoid that problem. I would let it warm in extreme cold weather just a little no matter what kind of oil I put in. We've been having our share in the Northeast this winter.
  11. Really nice job! Looking at it I'm liable to go do something stupid like restore my other car. I love the smell of paint thinner in the morning.
  12. Sounds like worn spider gears. I have replaced them in one diff when a couple of teeth broke off. If you don't make a habit of trying to burn rubber and spinning one wheel, you'll be OK. The only time they get exercised is going around turns and spinning one wheel. I blew mine at the starting line of an autocross. It was a less then gentle start. I still managed to get my car home in spite of it. Lose one or two teeth and you can do that. I replaced the four spider gears myself. It's not to hard once you have the diff out of the case. There are shims behind the gears that adjust backlash. You should be able to just put them back where they were without having to get different shims. You should take the cover off to see how worn they are. Spin one wheel back and forth gently while holding the other still and you'll see any slop between those four gears. The ring and pinion are probably OK.
  13. You might want to call. I’ve gotten Jim Rowe on the phone a couple of time and he’ll talk your ear off about everything he does in his tranny rebuilds. It’s worth a call. He does a lot of work to beef up the trans to besides just replacing stock parts. I know he reworks the syncros and uses tapered roller bearing besides some other mods he makes. I don’t think Jim is the kind of guy who likes to respond by email.

  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.