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  1. Here is my solution. I like to keep things as simple as possible, and that's not always easy for me. This installation requires 2 holes to be drilled where the bottom of the strut mounts. No other modifications to the car are needed. The upper ball joint is at an angle and clamps to an existing slot in the hood.
  2. And then there are turbochargers. You wouldn't get the intake roar of the ITBs, but you would get some other very nice and exiting sounds in addition to keeping the original engine.
  3. Tom, If you unscrew the delivery valve (#41) and shake it, you should be able to hear the ball rattle inside of it. This ball (obviously) serves as the check valve on the output side of the accelerator pump. If you remove #41 and everything else that rattles and then shake the carb up and down, you should be able to hear the other ball rattle inside its bore. If you don't hear it, and before you try to pull out the plug, you should blow compressed air alternately into the accelerator pump intake hole at the bottom of the float bowl and into the intake hole inside the pump. Hopefully this will loosen the ball if it's stuck. And while you're at it, to avoid a vacuum leak, make sure the mounting flange of the carb is flat. Good luck.
  4. I have no idea how the ball could have fallen out. Very likely somebody before you put it in the wrong place. The ball serves as a check valve on the intake side of the accelerator pump and it is hidden below a brass plug on the top of the float chamber right above the accelerator pump. Don't try to drill out the plug because it isn't a simple plug. Drill a short hole into it (about 3/16 long) and tap it for a 6-32 screw, then use the screw to pull the plug. You will need a bottom-tap and a #36 drill bit.
  5. I am running the Schrick 304, a 121 head, an 84 mm stroke S14 crank and flat top pistons. The compression ratio is about 9,5 to 1. There is also an aluminum flywheel. I started out with a 38/38 Weber but then changed to Megasquirt FI and the curved intake manifold out of an E21. The engine runs great with either fuel-setup and has lots of torque from 1500 RPM on up; but in stop and go traffic it is a pain. A steel flywheeI might be the cure for that, but I like the throttle response of the light flywheel. I would not recommend the 316 deg cam for the street. BTW, I could not tell any difference in power or drivability when I changed from the 38/38 to the Megasquirt. However, with the FI the gas mileage is much better.
  6. There are special drill bits available for this, to keep you from driiling a hole all the way through. http://shop.blairequipment.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=13224&gclid=CJD37JfW7sMCFVFgfgodG6kA9w You might also try Eastwood. http://search.eastwood.com/search?w=spotweld+drills
  7. It's been in Seattle all its life. Do you know how much rain we get in Seattle? I think you get the idea.
  8. I keep thinking about this. It would get rid of about 250 pounds and quadruple the HP. Good for about 9.8 seconds and 137 MPH in the quarter. Not to bad for getting the groceries. http://www.engineering.com/3DPrinting/3DPrintingArticles/ArticleID/7071/Nissans-40kg-400HP-Engine.aspx#at_pco=smlwn-1.0&at_si=5487583df67dce60&at_ab=per-2&at_pos=0&at_tot=1
  9. In the US of A, a spring rate is the amount of change in force you need, in pounds, to change the spring length by 1 inch . In other words, if you're compressing a spring one inch, and the required force is 300 pounds, then you have a 300 pound per inch spring. Another inch of compression would then require an additional force of 300 pounds, for a total of 600 pounds and so on. This applies to linear springs only. From what I recall, a stock front spring on a 2002 is 180 lbs/inch.
  10. True ------ the devil is in the details. So the question for john02md is, is there a steady pull, or does it pull only for a fraction of a second after pedal force is applied?
  11. Just for your info. Air in a brake system has nothing to do with with the car pulling to one side or the other. The pressure is always the same throughout the system. A caliper or cylinder works just as well on air pressure as it does on fluid pressure. In other words, bleeding the system more than once will not solve the "pulling" problem.
  12. Had the same problem you're having. Tried my best for many hours (and many feet of tubing) before I broke down and spent the big bucks on Eastwood's tool. It works perfectly every time with copper-nickel and steel tubing. Haven't tried it with stainless yet. The only drawback to this tool is that it has to be clamped in a vise. You can't use it on the car. http://www.eastwood.com/professional-brake-tubing-flaring-tool.html
  13. The only thing that matters is the block/head temp. The cooling system on a BMW 2002 and most, if not all other BMW's, is what I would call a bypass type of cooling system. This means that if the engine is not warm enough, the thermostat bypasses the radiator and allows varying amounts the coolant to be re-circulated from the cylinder head back to the pump, and then through the block and head without going through the radiator. The reasoning behind this is to keep the coolant velocity through the engine as high as possible, to prevent hot spots in the block or head. All your measurements are just the result of this process. You don't need a lower temp thermostat because you live in a higher temp area. The thermostat you’re using will take care of that as much as possible, unless you have a plugged radiator or water pump with halve the vanes corroded away.

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