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mike472

Turbo
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Everything posted by mike472

  1. mike472
    Have the same wheels and got mine from Steve. Watch which socket you use. You need a thin wall socket as there's not much clearance in the pocket. Watch out you don't chip the paint taking the socket and nut out of the pocket. Try to pull it straight off and not cock it to one side or the other.
  2. mike472
    Are factory door seals available again? Last time I tried from blunt they were NLA
  3. mike472
    Spend time researching the forum before you make a serious mistake or ask a question. Share your knowledge with others. It comes back in ways you don't expect.
  4. mike472
    Tommys right about reading the mega manual thoroughly as it relates to MSII. You can crib some peoples tune files right here on the forum as a starting point although I don't think you will find one for a turbo setup just like the one Pinepig has. As for the injectors there is no canned setting. You have to have the software and know how to put in the basic settings or know how to load someone else's entire map. You need to set the injector open time according to the size of your injectors(lbs. per hour) as people use all different sizes. The ignition could be EDIS4 or direct coil on plug triggered by the MSII unit. Most all of them use a Hall sensor on the crank pulley. If you don't have any knowledge of these basics you will certainly be lost. Bone up on all of that manual and if you haven't done so already, look at the MSII software for setting up the tables and making the basic settings to the system. It takes some time to absorb it all but read it over and look at the software on your computer about a gazillion times and it will start to become clearer. My two cents.
  5. mike472
    I am wrestling with jetting on my Inkagangster's 32/36 with the quick link. I have a 60 idle on the primary side along with a 145 air corrector and 140 main. Secondary 50 idle, 170 air and 140 main. Car runs like a bat out of hell but is too rich now as I am getting rotten gas mileage with lots of unburned hydrocarbons according to my nose.. One other thing is fuel leaking out onto the intake manifold leaving a perpetual puddle there. I gave the carb a very thorough rebuild, used the base insulator and gaskets on both sides, set the float level very carefully. I just ordered 57, 55, 52 and 50 idle jets for the primary side. I have read that rule of thumb is you should be about two turns out on the idle mixture adjustment. I am currently about one turn out. A sign of being too rich. I know this idle circuit has a great effect o low speed running so I will go down in size till I hit the two turns out adjustment and see how it runs. Has anyone had the fuel leak problem and is it the vent hole in the side of the carb spilling over during hard turns? Searched this pretty well and used Ryantii's jetting prescription with the quick link and it seemed to work great except for the above problems.
  6. mike472
    MoBrighta I am interested in your squarie restoration. Please email with the button and I will get you the $40 I got some stuff from Dan Stern and he told me about these bulbs but I never followed through. Your price for this seems fair. Thanks Mike
  7. mike472
    price reduced to $50
  8. mike472
    FYI... Bracket is the same for both tii and normal cars.
  9. mike472
    $70 plus shipping
  10. mike472
    $60 plus shipping. Very good condition. Taken off stock motor at 20K
  11. mike472
    Another option is Mark at Silicon Garage. He has a great copper recore of your stock radiator. Looks totally stock. Cools so well that I have trouble getting enough heat in my car! Have a car with IE radiator too. Looks very pretty in the engine compartment. Especially if you radically changed everything else already. Can't go wrong either way. Both cost about the same.
  12. mike472
    I met your dad at one of my first DE events with the NJ chapter in the late '70s. He is probably tougher then you think. Us old birds, and I count myself among them, have a way of beating the odds. I hope your dad recovers fully and will say a prayer for him.
  13. mike472
    If the strut assembly has no weight on it and the spring has play up and down that's normal. You need a spring compressor to get the stock springs off and on and those spring don't have any play because of their length. Almost any other short spring other then stock will install with some play and you won't need a compressor to get it back together. I have IE stage 1 springs and they are loose in their perches when you jack the car up. I wired them to the top perch to keep them in place when jacking the car up and down because they will get out of place if youre not careful. Search the forum about wiring the spring to the perch to prevent this. Do they jack the car up to inspect down in NZ? Good luck.
  14. mike472
    Congratulations on what is definitely a great looking car! Good luck with it and may all your miles be trouble-free(maybe just a little tinkering here and there!)
  15. mike472
    If you can get over to Staten Island tomorrow or Monday I can help you out with a spare. I will be floating around tomorrow but can make myself available to meet you at my shop. Call my cell 917 951-6525 or use my email button or reply here.
  16. mike472
    To make things real simple: take the shields from both cables coming to and going from the controller and attach them to the #7 wire coming out of the plug. Attach a jumper from that #7 wire to #10 wire. Run that black wire from #10 wire on the plug to the manifold ground connection I told you about in my earlier post You do not need to do any other connections from the shield wires to ground.
  17. mike472
    Had the same problem finding the plu for the coil. Ended up buying a whole other system for $50 just to get the plug. Don't know why this is so hard to find. Thought that DIY auto tune would have it as they have pigtails for everything else
  18. mike472
    You just want to have the shield from the sensor wire spliced together with the shield from the cable going to your MS relay box. You should be using the shielded cable that MS sells for the EDIS crank sensor to avoid any electrical interference from alternator or other electronic "hash" producing devices. You have one piece going from sensor to plug on the EDIS controller and the piece going from the other terminals on the plug to the relay box. These two shields can be connected over to the other negative big black wire coming out of that same plug and run that to ground via the tapped hole with a ring connector on the rear part of the 318i manifold. That's where the factory grounded the stock FI system. Keep all the grounds for this system tied to one central point so you don't have any differences in potential to ground. This will cause problems with your FI.
  19. mike472
    I second CD's suggestion on getting the motor you saw running. At $100, the other motor(72) is worth looking at and picking up just for spare parts. Keep in mind that the heads(E21 & 121ti)and pistons of the 75 and 72 are not compatible with each other but the block and other parts are usable, and with a little Frankenstein mixing of things you can probably build one good motor without a lot of expensive new parts. For you to have 30 lbs of compression something has to be seriously wrong, like broken rings, severely scored or holed pistons. I had a blown head gasket that was rust away in a large area and it only dropped the compression in that cylinder to 120 with the others in the 155-160 range. The other telling thing you observed was the air pulsing strongly out of the dipstick tube. That means your compression loss is definitely being caused by one or more of the faults I mentioned above.
  20. mike472
    This gentlemen makes a good point. It probably is best you do it once and do it right rather then look for shortcuts. Doing it right is not cheap as prices on stuff like oil pumps is through the roof but with a little luck maybe things won't be too worn to reuse.
  21. mike472
    I would rebuild this motor if you have the requisite skills, measuring instruments and tools then go for it. If its going to be a learning experience then it will definitely take you longer. PS.... I just bought a car with a blown head gasket that ran great so don't use that as an indicator. Turned out to be a fairly simple fix but it's not always the case. Your cylinder head needs to be cleaned thoroughly and carefully inspected for cracks, especially the narrow area between the valves in each cylinder. A die grinder with a small cleaning pad on it works great for cleaning the head mating surface without gouging it. Sometimes people keep driving after they overheat and crack the head. If your lucky you won't have this problem. You can farm out all the machine work to people so that all you have to do is assemble it.
  22. mike472
    Make a deal for the M20 swap motor for cheap money and put that in. From the look of that goo in your engine, it's a goner. You can take it apart later and analyze what you find in there. As for the used replacement your buddy has, high mileage motors can run extremely well if they were taken care of and the miles weren't hard ones. As for originality, forget it. You're not sitting on a rare Ferrari, just an old friend that needs a heart transplant. So what if you're taking it from the equivalent of a 65 year old man. Maybe he didn't smoke! Don't wait too long to do it if you want to go to the vintage. It will be upon you before you know it and you'll want some shake down miles before you make any trips, but what am I thinking, you're already down there!
  23. mike472
    From the look of the mayonnaise on your valve cover I would say blown head gasket. Get the compression tested to tell for sure and report back. Then maybe grab that 40k motor for $300
  24. mike472
    After going back and listening to both your videos I would say its in your valve train caused by excessive play in your rocker shaft and rockers, broken rocker pads, worn eccentrics, burned valves or all of the above. Pull the valve cover and check the rockers while their on the low side of the cam by pulling them back against the spring a little to see the rocker shaft surface underneath. If you see a ridge your probably due for a complete valve job. If you do it make sure you send it to a reputable shop like Korman near you. I don't know the other gentlemen you mentioned, but I do know Korman as they have done heads for me and I highly recommend them in your area. I don't think it's your bottom end as the sound of bad rod bearings or mains is a different kind of sound that gives you a knocking or rapping sound as you let off the throttle after a quick rev up. Do a compression test before you start taking anything apart to tell the general condition of the engine. You can do a leak down test if you find any real low cylinders and see if the leakage is coming out of you're exhaust or carb throat to tell for sure if you have leaking valves. Burned Valves that have worn thin at the edges can get real noisy too. Keep us posted.
  25. mike472
    I'll take wheel #2 Let me know your Paypal address and what you need for shipping to 10306 via the email button
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