mike472

What size and make of tire are you running?

Give the engine a thorough degreasing with Gunk or something similar, then watch the engine after it warms up to see where it starts weeping oil. It might be the top front cover which isn't too bad. Even an oil pan gasket isn't that bad a job. Stay away from the guy quoting $2000 for the reseal job. It's not really a hard job. You just have to thoroughly degrease all mating surfaces with carb cleaner on clean rags after you get all the old gasket material off. Be careful not to gouge the aluminum covers with metals scrapers. Also be really careful tightening any of the front cover bolts or oil pan bolts if you do it yourself. They are really easy to strip if you over tighten. That goes for any bolt on the engine block covers and oil pan. I believe they're all 5-7lbft. You need a good gasket sealer, either Loctite 518 or Hylomar. The 518 you have to get online. Local shops don't carry it but I have seen the Hylomar around a few of them. Happy leak hunting.

Looks like a spammer to me. Had the same reply to a post I made in August today. Beware

You should probably take the carb off and give it a thorough cleaning. Main jet in bottom of bowl, idle jets on side under a cover. You are not going to fix this by spraying shit down the carb throat. Time to get greasy my friend! If you really want to do it right buy the deluxe rebuild kit from pierce fo about $35 and a couple of cans of spray carb cleaner. That carb type sounds a little odd, not the usual DGV, AV, or EV as we normally see here in the US but the same principles apply. Good luck.

Sounds like you need a carb rebuild kit from pierce manifolds. Get the deluxe kit with power valve. Set float level according to what you'll find here on the forum and replace the float needle during rebuild. Should solve your hot start and gurgling problem. You should not need a booster pump. You may be overwhelming your poor 32/36 with too much fuel pressure. Stock pump should work fine

The Wheel with pulley from Tom at 02 again is the easiest way to go. It's a beauty as far as workmanship and its already indexed and ready to install. I have a spare toothed wheel and I am still buying the wheel for my next MS project from Tom The entire EDIS4 setup with plug wires and coil can be typically found on eBay from 50-60 bucks.

Anyone seen the latest from the Roundel? A fellow got $37,000 for this tii that Jamie Kitman owned! I don't think his ownership really drove the price. It was a nice car rated 2+ condition. http://bringatrailer.com/2012/10/15/bat-exclusive-preserved-34k-mile-1973-bmw-2002tii/ On the right day with the right crowd no one knows how much a decent car can command. You've seen some feeding frenzies at the major car auctions where emotions run high and people pay ridiculous amounts of money for seemingly pedestrian cars. This cannot be considered the norm. However, there is no doubt in my mind that our precious cars are going up not down in value and maybe in a big way. This is pretty amazing.

You've done a great job on everything and you are to be commended for the effort you put in. One small suggestion if you haven't done it already. Is your fuel tank sitting directly on the metal framework you built? You may want to put some strips of rubber to buffer it from contact with the metal around it. It will keep it from possibly vibrating against it and creating noise. Maybe setting it in 3M strip caulk on the bottom and putting some rubber around the sides.

time to enlist the help of a pro. You could mess around with this with a mechanics stethoscope to try and home in on the source. But once you do are you equipped to do a head job or really fix something deep in the bowels of the engine? Unless you are and even if you are, pay a pro for a little diagnostic time. He may be able to identify the problem and you might possibly be able to take on the job yourself or if not hand it off to him. Better then a dead car in the driveway! Good luck

Count me in. I live in the "forgotten" borough of NYC, Staten Island. I have 4 02's.

Steve and Cynical I really appreciate the info. You have definitely convinced me about the practicality of using 134a.

Dave I think you made a convert to 134. Thanks for the pic. That say's It all! Will contact you via the button

The R12 compressor I was sent in error was a Sanden. I suspect that's what they use for R134 systems as well. The compressor bracket wasn't a "hobiedave" unit. That's all I know. I installed my own Clardy system, on my brand-new '02, back in 1976. It took some time but there was nothing intrinsically difficult about it. The I.C.E. AC is effectively the same system. I suppose the difference is that pulling apart a 40-year-old car leads to scope creep; that wasn't true of a week-old car. Steve Thanks Steve, I had a Fridgiking I installed in my 76 and I really never liked the look of the cheesy plastic chrome looking air vents and the drag, weight and vibration of that York compressor. Also the marginal air flow you got through those too small plastic chrome air registers. At least the Behr systems had nice big vents and looked more factory. I'm thinking that one of those Behr faceplates with the air registers would be nice to use, or the whole gutted console. Probably tough to find and expensive. Hurricane also has an assortment of different vents and air registers you can buy piecemeal that you could make your own faceplate out of and then just use the stock console sides found in any 02. I am leaning in the direction of buying Dave's bracket(if he has any more) and the other components from either Hurricane or other sources. I am only undecided about using R134a or R12. I know you can still find R12 around but is R134a that much worse? I was thinking that a bigger cross flow condensor and that newer Sanden style compressor might make up for some of the inefficiencies of the old style system using R12. What say you other A/C gurus out there?

You have to download the instruction manual to get a feel for the ICEAIR kit. Even then there are no photos just a pictorial. There is a picture of a 2002 console on ICEAIR website. I didn't notice it at first. I mean it looks OK about the same look as a Fridgiking or Clardy. You can see the surgery that has to take place to some of the original console pieces in the downloadable manual. It is not a kit that just pops right in. Not clear on the what compressor they use or the bracket they are using. Just a general description of the components. Do they use a Sanden compressor? Seems like a well thought out kit even though its about $1800 complete. It seems like the extra money for this kit is worth not having to fab the whole thing even though that Hurricane unit sounds mighty interesting. I am goiing to try mocking this hurricane unit up in cardboard to see if it can be made to fit. Like Dave says you could use either one of the three available system faceplates for the vents making it look totally stock.

Thanks Jim and John, I would like to use the Vacuum advance with this one as I have a 32/36 Weber on this car. I only have this 002 off the car right now. I wanted to avoid taking the Pertronix out of the 071 distributor and then having to set it up again in the 002 to keep my car on the road while the dizzy is being rebuilt. The 071 is on the car and it runs quite well but it still has a little stumble that I think could be ignition related. My preference would be to send the 002 to get redone and keep the 071 as a spare if it didn't make any difference to Jeff. I'll probably end up sending him that one too when I get it off the car. I'm going to give him a call today and find out straight from the horse's mouth.

(nt)Thanks John, I was pretty sure that was the case. This is the 76 dizzy with the port on either side of the vacuum advance mechanism. Do you block the inner one when using just the outside port? I was going to have Jeff mount a Pertronix in it while I was at it and keep the one on the car(071) as a spare. The number on this one is 0 231 142 002 with JFUR underneath the numbers.

I want to send one of these distributors to Advance to recurve and recondition. The 002 is from a 76 and has ports on the dizzy for advance and what looks to be retard on the other side of the distributor advance capsule. The 071 is on the car now and I would prefer sending the 002 if there is no difference. Jeff would be recurving either one anyway. Unless there is some other advantage to one over the other that I'm missing.

I have been eyeballing this system since I saw Eurotrash post about it. It looks like a great alternative to stock. Did you size up the space required? What are you using for a condenser and compressor? I like this unit because you can probably use the original cable controls and you get everything in one unit. A little fabbing is required but what you end up with is a modern blower and evap that probably moves a lot more air then any of the clardy, Behr or fridgiking units available. You have no fresh air with this but I don't think it makes much difference. Hoses have to be run up to the existing heater hoses but that's no big deal. Please take a couple of photos when you do it. On my list of future projects for the Inka gangster.

You probably did not install the Petronix in the right spot. You have to position it so it is triggering as the rotor hits a terminal in the distributor cap, or close to it. You should make sure it is timed right after you do this. You should be able to turn the distributor a little til you get it to start then time it with a light with the ball appearring in the window of the bellhousing at 1500 rpm