mike472

It happens to the best of us.

You have the main MS ECU but no relay board. It doesn't look like it was completed as there are still some things that need to be assembled from what I can see in your picture. It looks 95% done. I hope you have the build manual. Its easy enough to get if you dont. You would just need the relay board and cable which will cost you a couple of hundred bucks. You can take the stock route for now but I don't think its going to be very easy to modify for use with the turbo. No adjustability unless you piggyback some sort of enrichment device onto it. I'm sure people on the forum have done this but in the end, the MS is better as far as adjustability. Your choice.

Take a look at the Penske parts microfiche online and you will see the changes on parts through all the model years. A book would be thick and hard to use compared to the microfiche. I don't think that's what Henry had in mind for his new book.

I'll second that. Much easier to post any photo. Thanks Steve!

You cannot avoid the real labor of thinking. Read the mega manual starting at the top of the MS3 section where it says "fuel system". Keep reading and scrolling down til you get to the end. Then do it again. And again. You are flying completely blind right now from what I'm hearing in your posts and you will continue groping for a solution until you do this or somehow get extremely lucky and wire it right by accident although I doubt that very much. Try it. It's not that's hard. They have good pictorials that will help you understand.

Paint it the color you like and watch out for arrows. Estorilblau

Take some before and after pics along with the color dye(paint) you used. I'm curious as to how it comes out. I would hope it looks like the real thing and doesn't have a noticeable coated look.

I am a bit confused If you have MS3 you are going to have to wire the all the sensors to MS's relay board if that's what came with the car and you won't be using the e30 plug at all. You can't have both the factory ECU and MS ECU. I would check to see exactly what you have as far as the major components. Go to the mega manual on MS's website and do some reading on the system and you'll get a better idea of how their fuel injection system works. If you don't have MS's relay board you will have to create one of your own with a fuel pump relay and main relay along with a terminals strip to wire up all the sensors to the ECU. The MS relay board makes the job easy as it has the relays you need along with fuses and a terminal strip for connecting the sensors on the engine to the MS ECU box. I bought the relay board along with the six foot long 37 wire(thick!) cable to connect it to the ECU in the glove compartment. The MS system does not use the stock airflow metering box so it should not be on your engine with the MS system. It uses a MAP sensor instead. This is better then stock because it eliminates an obstruction in the airflow and cleans up unneeded plumbing which is always good if you have a Turbo system. You are better of with MS and a Turbo. Much more tunable then stock. The stock airflow meter is no good for metering fuel for a turbo. Not like the MS system which senses manifold pressure and adjusts fuel mixture accordingly. With a turbo you need a MAP sensor that will measure up to about 45psi depending on the amount of boost you want to run. Relay Board MS ECU

Ditto on the AC install. How about re doing a door panel with a new wood backer ala Dave at aardvark? I have pics if you need them. Maybe MLytles gas pedal. Try not to go over stuff already covered in other books. You won't see the last two items in any book. A Megasquirt install might be nice although maybe beyond the complexity level you want. Good to hear from you Henry. I bought euro 635 parts from you in the eighties. I know you've been around the BMW scene for a long time. Kudos to you for attempting this. It's a lot of work and time consuming but I am sure it will be a labor of love for you Good luck

Finally rolled this project outside yesterday to wash off all the grime collecting over the last year and a half that it took to put together. On the home stretch now.

Use the bracket in the kit to attach calipers along with two washers at each of the two bolt attachments. You can ditch the backing plates as you won't need them. The washers supplied with my kit caused my calipers to rub on the disc. You can see how close they are to the disc in these pictures. I had to use a slightly thinner washer then one of the washers supplied with the kit to make the thickness .25". This centered the caliper. The pads at full thickness are a tight squeeze getting on to the disc. If you want to ease the process sand some of the surface of each brake pad off on a belt sander. You will need to bend some brake tubing. Get the two tools from Eastwood for doing it properly without kinking the tubing. I had no problem bleeding them. I am running the IE big brake kit up front with an E21 master instead of stock for a great pedal feel and a higher pedal. Brakes are super powerful now

Jerry drove a 7 series when the money started rolling in. With tinted windows. Statesboro Blues and just about anything from "Live at the Fillmore East"

Sheesh! I'll take the no soup for a year but please don't boil me in 90weight Hypoid. 20w50 is ok

Forgive me. I usually search things before I post so as not to regurgitate the same thing over and over. In my excitement to report I missed this one.

I saw a commercial on TV the other night that featured a yellow 2002 with an altered nose on it. The commercial was about the wisdom of financial planning and showed a guy just getting married, expecting one child but having triplets, they pan to a seen in a house he just bought that turns out to be built over an ancient burial grounds and they show spooks flying around, then his transmission blows in his car and they pan to a shot of the modded 02 steaming from in front. No mistaking the car though. Even with the funky front end they put on it.

Driving a car like this everyday makes you a bonafide car guy. Not a pretend car guy that can write the check for a new BMW or P-car who thinks that makes him a real aficionado of fine machinery. Granted some guys are real car guys that own these cars, but more often then not they know almost nothing about the inner workings of the car they drive. Most of them don't want to talk to you anyway. It's just a status symbol to them. I think most people feel that these folks are unapproachable and will not question them about their cars where people are literally yelling at me from street corners and giving me the thumbs up about my 02. Yesterday our receptionist came into my office and told me someone was outside taking pictures of my car so I went out to find a guy who was dying to talk to me about my car. Another day a guy and his girlfriend wandered into my store looking for the guy who owns the orange BMW. He figured I knew where to send him to get heater fixed in his 95 318ti. I sent them to my friends up the street and they were very thankful and gave me lots of great compliments. I live for stuff like this! I also like what this car represents, no pretense just pure driving pleasure. If you want feel through the steering wheel and cool combined you have to reach back to this era whether it's a Porsche, BMW or any other classic car. To me classic means back to the 70's or earlier.

Found the answer and I missed it the first time around..... Leaking accelerator pump diaphragm. It didn't look wet at first but after a hot shut down I watched underneath the AP lever and slowly but surely gas start leaking down the lever of the AP and dripping into the depression on top of the manifold. I had replaced diaphragm during the rebuild but somehow it must have had a hole or the paper gasket on the AP was not sealing correctly because some of the residue from the last gasket that was on there was messing up the sealing surfaces. This time I gave both sides a more thorough cleaning with scotchbrite. Presto, no more puddle and better gas mileage. Also no Inka bonfire! I am sure this is the cause of 99.9% of intake manifold gas puddles.

Jim This sort of makes sense. I tried tweaking the float level and you were right in that it causes others problem like a nice flat spot when the fuel level is to low in the bowl. I cant believe this is the norm. It wont happen with the stock Solex 2 barrel. How come? Different internal passages that prevent this percolation? I feel like trying to bypass that manifold heating circuit somehow if thats the problem. The accelerator pump area is dry as a bone so I know its not coming from there. Duel setups do just fine with no manifold heat so I don't think it would hurt things. Right now it sucks starting the car hot. It always has to clear that flooded fuel out of the manifold and I'm sure thats causing my causing my starting problems. When cold the car kicks off instantly. I resisted putting megasquirt on this car too but the 318i manifold is under the bench just in case.

Mine was OEM from Blunt and it's stitching was fine. The loops for the rods were stitched and they did not come apart. I had to slice open the loop on each side to get out some wrinkles but everything worked out fine. Having to cut it like this is normal and maybe if you didn't and you stretched it hard enough you could get it to come apart at the seam. I cut through the vinyl at the top of the loop not the bottom part with the stitching is. Also important.

We actually have trees that grow here even though we're in NYC. After Sandy last year I had plenty of stuff to cut. I have to tell you that Husky saw is tough. A lot of people like Stihl but makes a good saw. Nice to have some "implements of destruction" around the house. Its a 450 model with an 18" blade. After I got done here I went out to help the neighbors and the blade is still sharp. Just can't get enough of the way that thing powers through a tree! Talk about cheap thrills.

I can see that with a non stock electric fuel pump but a stock fuel pump should not be able to overwhelm the check valve feeding the bowl in a 32/26. The only thing I can think of is somehow the float level is still wrong. I know lots of 02's had a return line taking unused fuel back to the tank but would the absence of that cause a leak like this?

This has been bugging me too. I have the sync link and I have checked the float level and rebuilt the carb replacing the check valve in the process not once but twice just to make sure I didn't get a bad one. I put a rubber plug in the vent hole, replaced the mechanical fuel pump in case it was leaking but all to no avail. The puddle keeps coming back. My mileage has been crappy even though the car runs great. After it's warm and I shut down for about half an hour it seems to take a while to start and "clear it's throat" and get running smooth again. Then it runs nice and smooth. There seems to be some residual pressure in the line when I take the fuel hose off the between the carb and fuel pump. I thought that maybe after sitting with pressure in the line it might be forcing its way past the check valve and dumping out the vent hole or into the throat of the carb somehow. What the hell am I missing here?

These are nice and light 6x15 Alpina replicas I got from 9Grenzen made in the right offset for our cars. I have 195/50s on them and they are a reasonably light wheel. I think they look great on any color 02. I have some extra center decals if you need them. I accidentally bought 16 instead of 4 from a guy in England.

Here are a few pics of my sunroof headliner install. You can do this yourself. I used 3M spray 90 sprayed into a cup and brushed on. A sunroof car is actually easier in some ways. Not as many rods to deal with only two in the rear. The tricky part are the corners of the sunroof opening after cutting an "X" in the middle of the opening. A heat gun and some stretching of the material are required to get the corners right. The contact cement recommended by some people didn't work as well as the 3m stuff. The waiting for both sides to tack up with the contact cement takes too long. This glue sets fast and holds strong. You need some big file clips for the front and sides of the sunroof opening as the roof is much thicker here then at the edges. Thg rear part you can use the medium clips. The rest is about 200 medium clips and a couple of dozen small ones for the tight curves

Try Bel-Metric for a 10mm union for splicing two brake lines with fittings already on them. They have tees available too. I just bought a tee and a short 10" brake line so I could split the outlet on an E21 master into two lines coming out of the bottom. They have another union for lines without fittings like the on you have pictured as well https://www.belmetric.com/blu10x1-cohline-p-1108.html?zenid=ot581ikv29aktcq4lq914me9p6&cPath=17_564_187