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Found 93 results

  1. I am about to try out my new 12-ton hydraulic gear puller to take the rear hubs off, yes I know it is a little overkill, but for $20 more at harbour freight, I got the big one. How hard should they be to take off? Assuming that it is the first time they have been removed since the car was made. My concern is that I don't want to bend the hubs.
  2. $200 + shipping
  3. Need to do your yearly front wheel bearing maintenance? this description outlines basic process for doing this on 320i hubs, but the process is similar for 2002 hubs. Jack up car place jackstands under car remove front wheels unbolt calipers from struts. hang them from springs. do not let them dangle by the hoses. use channel locks to pull bearing cap off remove cotter pin on axle nut remove axle nut pull hub off axle. keep finger on the outer washer so that outer bearing does not drop out. put hub on work bench on clean paper. do not want to get dirt in the bearings. clean all the old grease off the axle so that you can examine it for damage. here is your chance to use those goofy angled screw drivers that come in the screw driver sets. use the flat blade part to reach down inside hub to tap out the inner grease seal without damaging it. pull out the inner bearing. clean it out. any degreaser or brake cleaner will work. make sure they are fully rinsed and completely dry before repacking with grease. pack with grease. i use vavloline synpower but that is probably overkill for a street car. you can do this by hand or use one of those plastic bearing greaser tools. i do it by hand. just make sure the thing is full. clean out hub and examine bearing races for damage. pack inside of hub with grease. i don't know if there is some specific amount, i have always just filled the recesses with a few fingerfuls. replace inner bearing. replace grease seal. fill back of seal with grease before inserting. clean and repack outer bearing. insert in hub. assemble the hub and slide back onto axle. keep finger on outer bearing so it stays on. put outer washer back on put axle nut back on put rotor back on put caliper back on strut put wheel back on (with wheel center cap off, if there is one) adjust bearing load. basically you want to snug it up to set the bearings, spin the wheel, then back off a little bit at at time until you feel smooth wheel movement with a touch of play when wiggling from 12 and 6 o'clock positions. a touch is defined as you can't really see it move, but you can feel just a little movement. put cotter pin back in. replace grease cap. tap in with hammer. i do not fill the grease cap with grease, but some folks do. no harm in extra grease. repeat for other side of car put car back on ground TQ your lug nuts. go drive. recheck wheel bearing play after a few days of driving. ---------------------------------------------- edit 3/14 need new bearings in the hub? lay out all the parts. hub inner bearing outerbearing grease seal studs keep the workspace CLEAN! don't get dirt in the new bearings. heat up hub tap in race using race tool now do the race on other side grease up the roller bearings and fill the hub. this is how much i used on one hub. can was new when started. ready on hub as with repack
  4. This weekend I spent some time working on the new set of wheels for the Roundie. I had originally built a set of BBS RSs for my E30, I ended up making them 15x8, which would have been too wide for this car. But if I put the stock lips back on it would have been perfect. However it's all a wash, because my 2002 has been swapped to 5x120, and my BBS RSs are 4x100. So I put the RSs back in storage. I figured it wasn't really worth the hassle going back to four lug, and I happened to have a set of wheel faces sitting on my shelf that I hadn't figured out a use for. In come my OZ Vega faces. A few years ago I bought a set of faces for $40. I had no use for them, but for the price I figured I could hang them up on the wall. When I bought the Roundie, I realized this was the perfect opportunity to do something with them. They're the right bolt pattern, and Vegas use 30-hole BBS parts. I just so happened to have a set of 1 inch lips sitting around from my RS rebuild. I sent the faces off to get powder coated. I had them redone in a very similar gold. It's tough to capture the color right, in the shade it looks much darker than it really is. But next to the Sahara Beige, it looks fantastic. Before sending off the lips for polishing, and ordering barrels, I wanted to take a few minutes to test fit everything and make sure I knew what I need. I need 15x5.5 30 hole barrels for sure, so if anyone is selling a set, please let me know. These will ultimately sit at 15x7, and I'll be putting 195/50 tires on them. I may need a small spacer in the rear, but that is to be determined. This week I drop off the center waffles to get color matched, and the lips to get polished. I'm still on the hunt for some good, used barrels (as new barrels are well over double the cost). I'll get some new hardware, and slap them together soon! I've ordered a few more odds and ends as well, hopefully those parts arrive this week. I had wanted to take the car to Stance Wars Las Vegas this year, but I rather not rush the build to make it there. I'm shooting for Big SoCal Euro as the Roundie's first big road trip. Lots of stuff to sort out between now and then (mainly the cooling system), but definitely doable.
  5. After test driving the car in California, I knew there was a few things that I would have to take care of right away when the car arrived home. Primarily with the throttle pedal. The car has an E30 G260 5 speed, which required the transmission tunnel to be widened. The result was a stock throttle pedal that absolutely did not fit anymore. I struggled to press it, and broke it clean off not 30 seconds after the car had arrived home. I ordered an Ireland Engineering aluminum throttle pedal, a kit they sell to address these issues. I simply cut out the stock pedal bracket, and bolted this pedal in. The pedal pushes against a roller bearing on the throttle rod, and engages incredibly smoothly. 10/10, best modification I’ll ever do to this car. Mainly because I can actually drive it properly now. I also ordered a steering hub adapter from IE, as I had a Renown 100 sitting around from my E30. The stock wheel was in decent shape, but a little too big for my taste. Unfortunately the 100 sticks out way too far on this hub, so I’ll likely need to swap to a Monaco. Otherwise it looks fantastic. Before the car was shipped to me, the previous owner spun up the coilovers so nothing was damaged getting on and off the truck. So I took some time to spin everything back down. I discovered the car is sitting on true-rear coilovers, but has no reinforcement on the rear shock towers. So I’ll be tackling that pretty quickly as well. I’ve only had the car for about a week now, so there wasn't a lot to report right off the bat. Fortunately I can say there will be future updates on this car, I have parts coming in and some goals to hit this year.
  6. Refurbished and Unused MIM 15"x7" @ 25mm Offset, ideal 15" 2002 Fitment: $750/set of 4 I ordered them and they're a little lighter than I want on my Inka car
  7. Cleaning out some old parts, make me an offer. Local pickup preferred, but I'll ship if buyer pays. 1) 3.64 open diff from a '73 car - $60/obo plus shipping SOLD 2) pair of half shafts from a 1973 car, no tears in boots - $50/obo plus shipping SOLD 3) one 320i turbine style wheel and tire, been sitting in my trunk as a spare for who knows how long, tire size 165/70R13 - $20/obo plus shipping
  8. Looking to find a stock 1975 BMW 2002 steering wheel. Thank you!!!!
  9. Good condition Momo Italy steering comes with adapter Has horn button Came off a 1976 BMW 2002 Steering wheel is $300 new just looking to get something out of it, friend went back to factory wheel Willing to ship Call or text 217-653-8566
  10. Four hubcaps, driver quality. With some elbow grease and knowhow with a hammer, they could be quite nice. $60 plus shipping.
  11. My 2002 was swapped to 5x120 by the previous owner, and I'm in the process of collecting parts to put it back to 4x100 to run my BBS RS wheels. I've been doing some digging but haven't found a definitive answer on this, so I figured I'd throw both of my questions out there. What is the stock wheel stud length on a 2002? I noticed IE sells a few longer options, but doesn't note what a stock replacement part would be. Do you need extended lugs for an RS (15x7 et25 fitment)? If so, how much longer do I need, that will still clear underneath the waffle? I would assume they don't need these, as this is widely considered ideal fitment for 2002s. Figured I'd get all my ducks in a row, instead of guessing and having to cut studs that are too long. Thanks in advance!
  12. authentic, not reproductions (3) 13"x6" (2) 13"x6.5" $1300 + shipping
  13. $150 + shipping
  14. 35cm *original hub *original horn button *original horn contact *original hub cover (not broken) *original grip (firm grip, not loose) $900 + shipping
  15. 2k2tii

    hub caps

    $160 shipped part # 36131104650 6lbs 20”x14”x6” from 95945 NLA
  16. $400 shipped
  17. 9 out of 10 condition $1200 shipped
  18. I'm always thinking about reducing my 02's weight and wondering who makes the lightest 15" wheels.
  19. Price:: 1000 Location: : San Fernando, CA I have a set of rare Magnesium Campagnolo wheels in very good condition. They came off a 1972 2002tii. Very little wear and tare. The tires have less then 1000 miles. I have additional photos if you are interested.
  20. Price:: 600.00 Location: : Seattle, WA See my ad in the PNW section. No shipping. Thanks, Stu.


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