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About jdamm

  • Birthday 02/05/1987

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  • Location
    christchurch, new zealand
  • Interests
    bmw's, all things fast, good looking and noisy!

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  1. +1 to that! It does make me wonder though, what the highest amount of HP has been put into our 02's? And I dont mean a funny car dragster version, I mean still running factory chassis.
  2. Well funnily I was just reading an article about headers as ive built my own and having some teething problems due to being RHD ( having a bloody steering box in the way) and how poorly matched bends or "cheating bends" (cuting the pipe off perpendicular to the tangent) will rob you of precious HP, it won't be a lot but in the case of that shorty header, I guess that pipe alone would rob a couple HP. Id send that back, my 02c.
  3. ok so i've had the diff rebuilt, turns out i have a S40 with stampings similar to JGEROCK, however i have a klingelnberg contact pattern. my guy did the before mentioned break away test and got nothing not worthy, once he pulled it apart the reason appeared to be very worn friction discs on either side (see pics), once i referenced new part thickness i worked out id lost 2mm of (total) thickness on either side. i purchased new inner and outer discs, bearings etc. filling it up with oil tomorrow and road testing sunday, it will be interesting to see how noticable the difference is. 01-25%2f02%2f17.zip
  4. Thanks RussTii, Ok, he said he'd check the lock up % as you mentioned but he was unsure if it would reach it's lock up % if really worn (you may know more about that?). That explains the 25% diff i'd read about in posts but found no solid info on, going off the amount of random bmw parts from E12's/E21's i've found while restoring my tii, there is quite a chance the diff internals could be made up of E21 parts. I'll drop off the blue book for him, while i'm there i'll look at the pumpkin to see the lsd stamp and also check for the correct codings for klingelnberg or gleison are matching codes on the crown and pinion, that'll be a dead give away if its been messed with. do you know anything about the "SP" steel on steel disc version of the LSD? I'll report back for others if this thread becomes useful.
  5. Hi FAQers, i have a factory 3.64 lsd in my tii, i have spent a few hours searching the FAQ and reading through the blue book(which was the most help) but i still haven't found the answer. using the picture below (of my diff) the numbers in the blue book state its a 3.64 ratio with "s" for LSD, however in the blue book it references "S40" and "S75" stampings for 40% and 75% lock up, it also has "SP" for steel on steel disc LSD. is there any way to work out what i have from the casing stamps? i also looked at the exploded views for the bmw schematics(realOEM) and it looks like the 75% diff has 2 moly coated inner discs each side, the 40%(assumption) diff has one moly disc each side. so that leads to my next question, does a "SP" diff have no moly discs and if so how much is it's lock up %? the diff is about to be rebuilt as the input seal and bearing are toast and i want to give the bloke rebuilding it as much info as possible, as he's never rebuilt one of these before i'd hate to steer him wrong. any and all info is appreciated, even on part availability too ( to help me should i need some parts, guessing there NLA) thanks in advance jules.
  6. as i found out while restoring mine there is the sunroof drain pipe running directly behind the arial inside the A pillar, so you'd drill into that. and yes i did notice it isn't a sunroof car but based on mass production and it being the same "red jewel" arial i have on my jan. 73' "sunroof car" i'd say they were used on all models for a certain time of production. based on date stamps on parts in this car and my own, id say late 71' till early 73'. just my two cents.
  7. hey dlacey, the flexi pipes are brand new, i forgot to mention that. thank you for the break down of the circuit but could you possible be more specific about which line from where, for instance my thought process mentioned above makes me think i have a line from servo one to the caliper in the wrong feed hole into the caliper ( for example- servo1 with 2 fork outlet to front right & left calipers top feed hole, servo2 with 3 fork outlet to front left and right calipers lower feed hole ). i had the servo's rebuilt 2 years ago but re tested by the refurbisher 2 months ago to confirm they were still good (as the resto has taken WAY LONGER than expected), as they had warned me about the diaphragm perishing without use within 1 year of rebuilding. as far as im aware my boosters work fine but im yet to test them by disconnecting manifold feed.
  8. Hi Gruppe, so i have hit more snags..... front left caliper is stuck on, after reading other posts on this, i tried pumping pedal 10 times then starting car to see if pedal would drop like normal but it didn't move. aside from the caliper sticking and the pedal not dropping everything else seems fine and works. so having a stuck caliper would give me that result right? i haven't checked my boosters yet by removing line from manifold, should i try this? my current thought is that in my rookie mechanic state i have got one of my new self made hard lines around the wrong way or maybe the feed to the left caliper wrong, has anyone got any pictures or diagrams of the correct RHD dual booster line layout so i can clarify? my heads a bit of a mess TBH, after reading soo many posts that have individually specific symptoms, which my Tii has some of and none of ,aren't helping me narrow this down much. oh and just for background info as stated on the 1st post above, all the brake parts are new or refurbished. ive pulled the pads out of the caliper in question then pumped the brakes to see if the pistons moved and they moved fine, however i didn't start the motor to see if they returned... if you have any RHD specific guidance im all ears! thanks in advance, Jules
  9. Yeah they are, they work well provided you have the Ballance right, I had issues with the previous owner's set up where I couldn't hear enough up front and got too much sound from the rear tray with the glass at the perfect angle to throw it all forward, not so fun if your sitting in the back hahahaha. Now it's all pretty balanced with the tweeters turned down so that the high frequencies aren't harsh. The components on the side manage to be far enough back from your feet to get enough sound. A massive improvement from before but far from well designed and great acoustically.
  10. this is what ive just finished, it's not as pretty as some of the others but suits my needs, maybe not the tall passenger hahahaha.
  11. well being a avid mountain biker i liked the simpleness and backyard enginuity of this method so i gave it a crack, and it worked well! I will eventually make up a pressure lid as i have a few spare reservoir lids and a valve spare but for now the bike tube is a "winner winner chicken dinner!" and to the rest of you who commented, thank you for your advice, it's greatly appreciated! now all i have to sort is a stuck caliper as my bleeding prior to the pressure bleed obviously wasn't up to spec.
  12. thanks dlacey & simeon for the replies, ok so i have just finished flipping the calipers to opposite sides and re bled the system and pending a test drive it appears the problem is solved...... however based on your comments about pressure bleeding a RHD sys. i may have to look into that if the test drive isn't good, is there any mildy proper way to do so, say next step up from a syringe? or is it a workshop job? thanks again jules
  13. Hi All, so I'm at the last hurdle of the restoration before going for a "WOF"(warrant of fitness) New Zealand's version of a MOT, ive bleed the entire system 4 times now, in 2 different methods ( article from the faq and haynes manual), i have a RHD 73' tii with a dual circuit system with 2 remote servos. after the last round of bleeding, starting at the servos then rears then fronts, my brake pedal still hits the floor. i have a completely refurbished system (new lines,hoses, re sleeved cylinders, servos and calipers), Can anyone help either diagnose the fault in the system based on symptoms or give me a more specific RHD bleeding sequence to try? thanks in advance! EDIT; also just looked through the factory manual and notice i might have the front calipers upside down..... would this cause any issue with the upper, inner, outer sequence?
  14. thanks simeon, which version of JBweld is the right one to use? they seem to have quite a range.
  15. +1 for buying a mig, learning how to weld on some scrap and go nuts, i did that 3 years ago, car became a full resto, with 2 floor pans, 1 chassis rail, whole nose + grill transfer, lower rocker and rear bumper mount/patchwork. on the home straight now, will be on the road by easter, never looked back! good luck!
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