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Deilke53

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Deilke53 last won the day on March 26

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  1. Also from last week's tear-downs, this water choke Weber 32/36. intake manifold and water outlet included. has electric fuel cut-off solenoid. Could use a trip to the beauty parlor, but the linkage moves smooth and it's from a recently running motor so it will probably function as-is without a rebuild. $75 plus Fedex from 98275. Paypal is best. PM me or text 2067143379 if interested.
  2. Oops, not sure what went wrong with previous post Stripped down some motors for cores last week and kept this early e21 intake and throttle if someone wants them $150 + fedex shipping from 98275 (guessing $20ish to anywhere USA should do it) Paypal PM me or text 2067143379 if interested.
  3. I tried racing with a 3:45 and 4 speed once last year as an experiment to try and see if I could move a 2nd-3rd shift to a better spot on the track and also avoid one kinda useless short-term shift to 4th. It worked but caused little issues in other key spots. Same lap times. But I did decide that if I ever had a street 2002 again it is exactly the setup I would use. Makes first gear useful, 2nd and 3rd a little taller (who cares, you really should be driving a little faster anyway:) and the 4th gear freeway a little calmer. Not to mention: cheap, easy, light and mechanically more efficient than overdrive..win win win win situation.
  4. These work: https://www.appletreeauto.com/CUSTOM-WINDOW-CRANKS-68-and-UP-11-4521-B/?gclid=EAIaIQobChMI0r_BsM7e6QIVghh9Ch0V7gA9EAQYBSABEgIcbfD_BwE Standard VW Empi stuff I think.
  5. Okay if you're one of the rare humans who hasn't already chucked up a lung laughing at this Cracked Magazine spoof ad from a few years back..enjoy!! Seriously, don't be drinking anything you wouldn't want coming out of your nose:) Hazzard Fraught
  6. Years ago we had a club meeting at a local race shop, one of their engine builders told me they put every single new valve in a fixture and give it a a little hammer smack. Not enough to hurt a good valve, but enough to make sure doesn't have a serious defect. I cant remember the failure rate, but it was higher than you'd like to believe possible.
  7. Here are some up close and really up close photos..enjoy The progression waves on the broken stem are obvious, the other pics are of the area where the red arrow is pointing. Looked like maybe a a crack just starting, but holey moley up close is scary:)
  8. I can't remember where those valves are from or if they were all matched. It looks like an exhaust have been quickly replaced somewhere along the way because it didn't have its stem necked down like the others. But we (me and my motor/flow bench buddy) couldn't remember doing it and we're the only ones who have ever touched my heads since 2008. No idea the hours, I used that head for a couple seasons then switched to a 121 for a while then back for the last couple seasons..so quite a few hours..too many. No fault of the parts, I run the stuff way too hard for my budget:) The seat could have dropped first, I've had that happen, the reason I don't think it happened this time is that the valve head and its edges are in amazing condition and the valve pocket looks pretty good too. There is no extra valve clearance to play with in that motor, so if the seat started to drop I would expect a few smacks of the piston with the valve head in the approximate correct neighborhood. No valve diameter marks in the pocket. This looks more like the head came off followed the piston down, rotated and got shoved through the roof on the first or second hit. None of the normal broken motor or broken rocker sounds, just instant soft power like a dropped plug wire. The stem end shows the waves of failure as the crack progressed maybe 10 cycles until past halfway and then it just let go. Nose of the rocker got a little mushed when one of the big chunks shoved back hard, but not mushed like what happens when the cam is pushing and it has nowhere to go
  9. Soft on power, but ran amazingly well half a lap back to the pit. No funny noises or anything, I was expecting to find that I had simply dropped a plug wire. Looks like it was just fatigue. One of the other intakes has a teesny flaw showing in the same location. Should have changed the valves out last season. Tach memory said peak 8500 which is normal, sometimes a little closer to 9K.
  10. Looks like we've taken a politico-culinary turn, but I've seen the stuff work a few times. Most amazingly: Very early last season on of my racing acquaintances either had a cracked head or a failed head gasket in his Datsun 510..anyway it was bad..steamy exhaust overheating..open radiator acting like Old un-Faithfull with random big eruptions. So he was packing it up at the end of day one:( Blah blah blah Half an hour later in went the magic metallic milkshake and It ran perfect the rest of the weekend and for the rest of the season. Of course there is no heater core in the car but there were also no winter comments from his engine builder about any strange residue or damage and and the radiator must have been fine because it will be getting used again next weekend. Now I keep a bottle of it with me.
  11. Used molded Lexan windshield, 1/4" (6mm) thick. Installs with stock seal. Has been around the track many many times so there are plenty of nicks and light scratches but it is still in very usable condition. Run it as is, or polish it out and make it nearly new again. $125+shipping. If you want to calculate shipping: from 98260 guessing the box will be 54x24x3..10lbs or less? Please reply by text 206-714-3379 or PM
  12. Look at the back of your instrument cluster..is it one of the tachometer wires? No wait that's a stupid idea, wouldn't come from that plug.
  13. Oops I missed reading that. I guess as long as it wasn't just overspray on the aircleaner then by all means yes that's the first thing to fix. But he re-did the gaskets..with sealant even..afterward and got the same result.
  14. First off: nice car! I believe it has to be spark. I know you checked 100 times, but you have one of the pics labeled "order in image is 4-3-2-1" just for fun reach down and swap the 3-4 plug wires so its the same firing order listed on the valve cover..cant make it run any worse. No? check your points gap at all 4 positions and check for slop in your dist shaft. otherwise: Did you do the comp test again after it was running badly? Dead adjacent cylinders would make me suspect a head gasket leak between them. Shouldn't be a problem that could hide from a simple comp test, but it is a problem that can hide at high rpm. You can do a crude leak test by pulling those 2 plugs and have a buddy put compressed air to each of those cylinders at valves closed tdc. See if you can detect any leakage next door. *use the hose from your comp tester and duct tape cobble something together that will make your buddy's task easier. -Hard to believe could be a single downdraft carb issue that only shows itself on 3-4. -you've proven there's no booster hose leak. BTW you're not driving it until you figure it out so just keep that intake booster port plugged for now just to be 1000% sure. -Any other intake leak can usually be easily detected with careful targeted application of your favorite non-chlorinated flammable aerosol while the motor is running before going to the machine shop.
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