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Deilke53 last won the day on March 26

Deilke53 had the most liked content!

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  1. I tried racing with a 3:45 and 4 speed once last year as an experiment to try and see if I could move a 2nd-3rd shift to a better spot on the track and also avoid one kinda useless short-term shift to 4th. It worked but caused little issues in other key spots. Same lap times. But I did decide that if I ever had a street 2002 again it is exactly the setup I would use. Makes first gear useful, 2nd and 3rd a little taller (who cares, you really should be driving a little faster anyway:) and the 4th gear freeway a little calmer. Not to mention: cheap, easy, light and mechanically more efficient than overdrive..win win win win situation.
  2. These work: https://www.appletreeauto.com/CUSTOM-WINDOW-CRANKS-68-and-UP-11-4521-B/?gclid=EAIaIQobChMI0r_BsM7e6QIVghh9Ch0V7gA9EAQYBSABEgIcbfD_BwE Standard VW Empi stuff I think.
  3. Okay if you're one of the rare humans who hasn't already chucked up a lung laughing at this Cracked Magazine spoof ad from a few years back..enjoy!! Seriously, don't be drinking anything you wouldn't want coming out of your nose:) Hazzard Fraught
  4. Years ago we had a club meeting at a local race shop, one of their engine builders told me they put every single new valve in a fixture and give it a a little hammer smack. Not enough to hurt a good valve, but enough to make sure doesn't have a serious defect. I cant remember the failure rate, but it was higher than you'd like to believe possible.
  5. Here are some up close and really up close photos..enjoy The progression waves on the broken stem are obvious, the other pics are of the area where the red arrow is pointing. Looked like maybe a a crack just starting, but holey moley up close is scary:)
  6. I can't remember where those valves are from or if they were all matched. It looks like an exhaust have been quickly replaced somewhere along the way because it didn't have its stem necked down like the others. But we (me and my motor/flow bench buddy) couldn't remember doing it and we're the only ones who have ever touched my heads since 2008. No idea the hours, I used that head for a couple seasons then switched to a 121 for a while then back for the last couple seasons..so quite a few hours..too many. No fault of the parts, I run the stuff way too hard for my budget:) The seat could have dropped first, I've had that happen, the reason I don't think it happened this time is that the valve head and its edges are in amazing condition and the valve pocket looks pretty good too. There is no extra valve clearance to play with in that motor, so if the seat started to drop I would expect a few smacks of the piston with the valve head in the approximate correct neighborhood. No valve diameter marks in the pocket. This looks more like the head came off followed the piston down, rotated and got shoved through the roof on the first or second hit. None of the normal broken motor or broken rocker sounds, just instant soft power like a dropped plug wire. The stem end shows the waves of failure as the crack progressed maybe 10 cycles until past halfway and then it just let go. Nose of the rocker got a little mushed when one of the big chunks shoved back hard, but not mushed like what happens when the cam is pushing and it has nowhere to go
  7. Soft on power, but ran amazingly well half a lap back to the pit. No funny noises or anything, I was expecting to find that I had simply dropped a plug wire. Looks like it was just fatigue. One of the other intakes has a teesny flaw showing in the same location. Should have changed the valves out last season. Tach memory said peak 8500 which is normal, sometimes a little closer to 9K.
  8. Looks like we've taken a politico-culinary turn, but I've seen the stuff work a few times. Most amazingly: Very early last season on of my racing acquaintances either had a cracked head or a failed head gasket in his Datsun 510..anyway it was bad..steamy exhaust overheating..open radiator acting like Old un-Faithfull with random big eruptions. So he was packing it up at the end of day one:( Blah blah blah Half an hour later in went the magic metallic milkshake and It ran perfect the rest of the weekend and for the rest of the season. Of course there is no heater core in the car but there were also no winter comments from his engine builder about any strange residue or damage and and the radiator must have been fine because it will be getting used again next weekend. Now I keep a bottle of it with me.
  9. Used molded Lexan windshield, 1/4" (6mm) thick. Installs with stock seal. Has been around the track many many times so there are plenty of nicks and light scratches but it is still in very usable condition. Run it as is, or polish it out and make it nearly new again. $125+shipping. If you want to calculate shipping: from 98260 guessing the box will be 54x24x3..10lbs or less? Please reply by text 206-714-3379 or PM
  10. Look at the back of your instrument cluster..is it one of the tachometer wires? No wait that's a stupid idea, wouldn't come from that plug.
  11. Oops I missed reading that. I guess as long as it wasn't just overspray on the aircleaner then by all means yes that's the first thing to fix. But he re-did the gaskets..with sealant even..afterward and got the same result.
  12. First off: nice car! I believe it has to be spark. I know you checked 100 times, but you have one of the pics labeled "order in image is 4-3-2-1" just for fun reach down and swap the 3-4 plug wires so its the same firing order listed on the valve cover..cant make it run any worse. No? check your points gap at all 4 positions and check for slop in your dist shaft. otherwise: Did you do the comp test again after it was running badly? Dead adjacent cylinders would make me suspect a head gasket leak between them. Shouldn't be a problem that could hide from a simple comp test, but it is a problem that can hide at high rpm. You can do a crude leak test by pulling those 2 plugs and have a buddy put compressed air to each of those cylinders at valves closed tdc. See if you can detect any leakage next door. *use the hose from your comp tester and duct tape cobble something together that will make your buddy's task easier. -Hard to believe could be a single downdraft carb issue that only shows itself on 3-4. -you've proven there's no booster hose leak. BTW you're not driving it until you figure it out so just keep that intake booster port plugged for now just to be 1000% sure. -Any other intake leak can usually be easily detected with careful targeted application of your favorite non-chlorinated flammable aerosol while the motor is running before going to the machine shop.
  13. On the Aerodynamics front: I spend half my life on Solidworks..love it, use it professionally every single day, but I don't consider it great surface modeling tool. I would assume we'd be looking for subtle yet signifiacant changes like they found in 1970 by taping a piece of rope along the 911's front valence edge..things that work wonders without making your car look like a Prius, right? Not impossible but very difficult and expensive. On one hand, you don't need any computer to tell you what is glaringly wrong aerodynamically with our beloved 3box shape, but on the other hand you will need one hell of a powerful computer to manage and manipulate a model detailed enough to give valid CFD results (not to mention the computer that can handle those heavy CFD simulations). To get valid results you'd need to accurately model every single thing..the inner fenders, firewall, motor, underbody, suspension, window seals, your dog's face out the window..every single thing that sees any airflow. Here is a really fun time suck for the hobby aerodynamicist..NASA FOILSIM . It is an interactive 2D digital wind tunnel. You can chose from hundreds of proven NACA foil cross sections and play with velocities angle of attack etc and observe the lift/drag etc results AND if you weren't already skeptical about shade tree aero improvements you can test your own shapes. Maybe you can figure out a way import a 02 silhouette?
  14. Yes I still count that as free range. My meager 4cyl porsche collection 912, 914, 944 live side-by-side under those things. If they could talk, I'm quite sure they'd say that they love the way they're driven but their home life is tough.
  15. I was going to mention those Fire Ball automatic fire extinguishers, but one of the first reviews on Amazon mentions it going off under hood without any fire. I guess there's the possibility that it worked so well the dude never even knew there was a fire? I'll add this advice..when you're tidying up your under-hood scene make sure you keep enough fuel line slack to deal with a broken motor mount or two. I wouldn't have immediately though I had many fire stories until this thread got me thinking back. damn. Quick VW funny scene: Several decade ago wife and I are cruising home up I-5 on a sunny day in one of our buses. Windows down, right lane, and in absolutely no mood or condition to be dealing with authorities. A passing car slows down to match our speed and the passenger yells over "hey, your car's on fire" to which I yell "how bad?" they drop back and then pull up again "Bad enough you should probably stop" A simple head nod thanks-acknowledgement and they zoomed off. Quick unscheduled pit stop to put it out at the next exit and our long strange trip was back in motion just like that. Nowadays they'd probably just hang back and video it rather than take time to warn us.
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