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About Deilke53

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  1. Float level setting too low. Easy thing to change and try..see online videos if you've never done it. While you're there check the inlet screen if it has one.
  2. NO ..if his battery positive cable were connected to ground like that the starter would be the least of his worries
  3. I agree, follow the smoke signals. Your ground cable looks like it's up for the task so if it were me I'd disconnect that batch of brown ground wires and see if the starter works. I think when you turn the key power is somehow being fed back through one of them putting the starter in a low voltage condition. I would also think anything connected to those brown wires is protected by a fuse so I'm surprised it would get to the point of smoking. Unless you'r using one of those 6mm bolt deilke-style fuses:)
  4. We don't use abrasive so its really only good for foams, wood and plastics..cuts that kind of stuff in the 200-400ipm range. very often I cut 0.25" ABS and HDPE or closed-cell foams up to around 4" thick. Stream diameter is 0.007" so it can do some tiny details. Perfect for lexan windows, door cards and that sort of thing. It can cut up to 0.060" aluminum with a few painfully slow passes so I only do it if it really needs to be really accurate and can't easily be cut any other way. . 2 machines, 5' x 12' work area, one of them is 5axis. Very handy tools. I've used the G10 and FR-4 that you'll see for sale alongside phenolic material and I think will work great for that application too if that's all you find in the correct thickness. Different resin and different fiber but same idea and similar properties. Let me know if you want something cut.
  5. Wow Tom you are waay into it this:) That "friction pad" material you are talking about is called Phenolic. Widely available, you should be able to order some from McMaster or Amazon or Laird plastic. Get some and PM me, I'll waterjet you a lifetime supply of those for free to a fellow Washingtonian. I was going down this rabbit hole the day looking through a box of distributors and did a quick calculation on how much of a variable their end play is. For those who have never given it any thought..I was surprised, it is actually kind of significant. For example that distributor you show needing a washer, I would say that's about 1mm of end play (0.040") which I think is common since three out my 10 distributors have that much or more. Well, believe it or not that 1mm of end play works out to 10+ degrees of crank rotation. But, maybe that play makes no difference in real world driving situations?? PS Always wondered why they reversed rotation on the e21 dizzys..any ideas?? the short math: cam shaft and distributor shaft are offset by about about 22mm and their gears are identical . That means their effective gear diameter is also 22mm and therefore circumference is 69mm. With screw type gears of equal diameter and 45degree teeth, 1mm of end play equals 1mm segment of that 69mm circumference. 1/ 69 equals 0.0145. 0.0145 x 360deg equals 5.22degrees. crank-cam relationship is 2:1 So, over 10 degrees at the crank. SHaftplay.webp
  6. A pair of working stock alternators. Yes, you get both of them. $70 shipped USA -buy them for leisurely restoration -buy them to re-sell -or just buy them and relax knowing that your current alternator will never ever fail if there's one spare in your garage and another spare stashed under your back seat Please respond by PM -Thanks.
  7. Wow Lydia. Thanks for the story!, we've got it so easy.
  8. Cool model, I never knew about the YAK-3. A quick Wikipedia visit reveals that it probably sent many BMW engines quickly into the real estate business.
  9. It really does look great. where did you get the dash cap...or is "Dashcap" the brand name?
  10. I have a 912 exactly like your dad's. And a 914, and a 944..a love for hustling around quickly in somewhat gutless cars. Fun driving without being terribly reckless.
  11. Agree, almost all of those body parts going by are 02. Including this left quarter with fuel opening. I don't think I've ever seen a 2002 with left side gas cap. Flipped negative maybe? Gotta remember the 60's weren't exactly caveman days. We were building 747s and going to the moon in 1969.
  12. Yes, but I was able to include that conduit fuel line protector through the cabin on the same building permit so it wasn't much hassle. It was 2008, simpler times:).
  13. Thanks guys! Agree, the lit up fasten seat belt warning would be cool and fit my style perfectly. The instrument that was unfortunately forgotten is my old adjustable fun meter. Really need to mount it in a bezel and find a spot. Here is an old pic showing the junction box. I think that box has sparked more great pit conversations than any other unorthodox home made solution on the car.
  14. I know I don't share much but I like how this dash is turning out so here you go. About as far from modern F1 tech as you're gonna get..but I think there's something cool about an old school instrument panel. I've always just had a stock dash with these same instruments mounted all over the place and under-dash wiring that looked like a 4th grader decided to install an aftermarket alarm and stereo. Only the occasional inline fuse to supplement my luck. Yes I have nice terminal blocks to replace the wire nuts but I'm still recovering from the recent loss of my under-hood home j-box where my battery cables used to meet-up so I may just keep them for a while. -.060" aluminum panel and parcel shelf.. a few rivets into the underside of the dash bar -.060 Lexan cover panel fastened by Velcro..light and easily removed -dash panel secured only by 2 cage clamps..easy to remove or rotate forward for access. Now the rush is off since it's looking like we'll almost certainly all have an extended off season.

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