mike472

E12 is the way to go. It'll get your pedal travel feeling stock and a pedal high enough to heel and toe easily. Too much travel is no good. I have same setup and its perfect now with no brake biasing valve between front and rear

With a golden opportunity to show off your handiwork, how could you pass it up? You can do it!

Don’t try to recreate a stock 2002 turbo. If you want to do it do it with modern components with new electronic fuel injection. Metric Mechanic has forged 8.25-1 CR piston meant for turbocharged engines that have a ceramic top and hard anodized skirts. Don’t put an audi engine one your car. Blasphemy! youll be tearing your hair out trying to get all the stock turbo parts. Getting the right K fish pump is pert near impossible not to mention all the other parts necessary to recreate a stock 02 turbo

I'd like to think it was Michelotti. The 02 looks like it has an italian influence with all those nice curves. The Bavaria and CS also have that "italanesque" feel to them. Like the same person did them. That all went away in 1977 when BMW started to sharpen up all the creases on all their cars. Kind of like a starched shirt. Call me a luddite but now all their fricken cars look like a worn down bar of soap.

You should check out Metric Mechanic's website and read up on their piston sets and how they developed them. They have done quite a bit of testing with various forged pistons with different alloys of silicone in them. He has been able to make a durable, light, and close to stock expansion rate piston. He also uses hard anodizing on his pistons for a really hard surface along with lighter piston pins. I know Jim Rowe since the early 90's having personally visited his shop back then. I think he has the some of the most creative solutions for building performance and at the same time toughening up BMW motors and trannys. You might want to check out his rebuilt engines and go for the gusto. I ordered a 2200 sport engine from him 2 months ago. I spoke to Jim for quite a while before ordering it. I was going to rebuild it again myself but after our conversation and considering all the things he does in his rebuilds, I know in my heart that I don't have the time or the expertise to do the same job he would do and I don't feel like taking the engine out again after this. My engine began burning oil right from the get go as I put a set of Deves rings on a set of 9.3/1 KS pistons after I broke one of the stock rings putting one of the pistons in the bore. On top of that I don't think the gap was as tight as it should have been when I measured them down in the bore. I went with it anyway. They did not break in right and I think I also didn't help matter running a too rich mixture for the first thousand miles or so with a poorly setup Megasquirt system. I got all the bugs out and the engine now runs great but burns oil and has a lot of blow by. I have an Innovate AF gauge with Wide band O2 sensor on it now so that over-rich mixture won't happen again. Good luck and do some reading before you go with any forged pistons. They are definitely not all created equal. There are also a lot more choices out there then there were in the early days when guys went with Venolia pistons that clattered like hell until they warmed up and burned oil like crazy. OK if you were racing but not in a street car. Be really careful breaking in your freshly rebuilt engine whoever does it. Make sure your mechanical injection is working properly so the same doesn't happen to you.

I used my Inca car almost everyday but now that winter is coming I will revert to my Ford pickup. Also have my second Estoril car which is restored and I am a little more careful about when and where I go with that one. There are too many bonehead drivers around here that will total your car while they're texting their friends. I am really only weather limited with either car. I am not going to let these two rust into the ground like a couple of other 02's I had when I drove them year round back in the day. I wouldn't drive any car I cared about all winter around here. If I was in a sunny climate I would definitely use the cars all year long.

That is one big mess to deal with. I can understand how you feel. After all the stuff you've been through building that car it doesn't seem fair, but like Tommy says, wait out the winter and formulate a plan to fix in spring. My engine is burning oil because my rings didn't break in right and I have to do that over too. My car runs well enough but is getting a lot of blowby and a leaky rear main seal. I'm going to break down and buy an engine from Jim Rowe this time. I can't take doing this again and screwing it up somehow. I hear he fixes a problem with pressure relief valve bore so that the check valve piston moves freely in the case of overpressure it can bypass properly instead of blowing the filter. He told me they have a tendency to get stuck. He bores out and replaces the aluminum bore with a brass sleeve instead of steel piston in an aluminum bore. That's one thing I would definitely look at when you rebuild. So far I haven't had that problem but I used a new oil pump.

Nice article that Ceppos wrote. I didn’t realize he was an 02 owner

Here is the IMDB photo of my car. Its outside the bar where the driver went to do a drug deal

My Inka car appeared in American Gangster in 2007. It was driven to a bar for a drug deal and parked out in front of the bar. I bought it from a guy who worked building sets for the movie in brooklyn. He bought it from the production company after the movie was done. I got the car in 2011 after the owner got tired of the car and its upkeep. My blue car was in "The Preppie Connection" about a guy at a new england school who managed to run a heroin ring out of his ivy league school. Got $400 for the day and biting my nails every time they opened and closed the door of my car which was about a 100 times! It was shot on the grounds of Sailor's Snug Harbor here on Staten Island.

I love it! It looks great and I'm glad you finally did that car a favor and brought it back in a most beautiful way. Can't wait to see it in person PS.... get a new ID plate made. Nice finishing touch to go with your Verona sticker mike

Is there an issue draining your battery if clock winder fails as it tries to wind the clock over and over again? My friends Bavaria had a quaint little electrical winding device. Probably would drain your battery pretty quickly if it went haywire. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

You can use the rubber bushings that fit the lines to the stock master cylinder in the new one you plan to use, whether its a 750 or E12 version or whatever. That way you keep your stock fluid reservoir along with its line's and fittings. I don't think there would be room for a master mounted reservoir anyway between the clearance to the booster and everything else in that vicinity. I would stay stock. I have Wilwoods all around and they definitely need a large bore master cylinder to move the fluid. You still get great pedal feel with those big bore master cylinders provided you really need them to move a large volume of fluid. Using them on stock sized systems is a waste.

Id still like a set with the city lights, bulbs you suggested and install and lenses protection kits if and when you get them thanks mikekatsoris@gmail.com

One day I hope to visit the Quail never mind exhibit a car there. You did both 2002's and yourself proud. Beautiful car. Congratulations.

Jason, It was indeed a pleasure to finally meet you at the vintage and see the "Snob". I'm glad you made it back in 6 hours. It was a long 750 miles slog back to Staten Island. My car wasn't running 100% but she made it and I have a new list of things to fix. Love the line up of beer bottles around your car. Hope you got the deposits! Mike

ouch! That one had to get a rise out of you! Your sounding better alreadySent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Get well soon. Just wanted to put my two cents in. You are a person of interest..... To all of us Mike Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I like rubber in the front control arms with IE's poly bushings only in the front subframe and sway bar and its links. You might also want to replace the steering coupling with poly. This will take alot of the wander out of the steering without going all the way with poly in everything. No real detrimental effect on the ride. Car is not steered by ruts in the road as much. Especially if you run 15" tires.

I'll take a set with the city lights foor a 74. I'll take a set with the city lights foor a 74. email sent

These wheels are made by Rota and I need one wheel with a small center hub cap for a spare. I put Alpina stickers on mine to make them look authentic. Went for the black center classic look. Mike

It's looking IKE I'm the only one here who will tell you this but the 38/38 has more punch off the line if it's setup correctly. For a DD that would be my choice. You're not going to "slap" dual carbs on like you're changing an oil filter. It's much more complicated then you or others are making it sound. Lots of compromises involved, like having good air filters that fit, linkages that work right, constant gas fumes, leaking manifold gaskets among others. Just getting these jetted correctly is a task in itself. I have a cam and 38/38 and have had side drafts setup properly and I can tell you the 38 is more fun on a DD. also I can't believe the mileage some people say they are getting with the duals. Almost impossible to get into the twenties unless you drive them like you have an egg you don't want to break under your foot. By the way, this is not a progressive carb so there is no "quick link" for it as both barrels open simultaneously. Each cylinder has two barrels feeding it versus one with the duals. Much better fuel distribution with the stock manifold. This really helps the low end. If all you want is bragging rights, gasoline smell, and exotics looks and noise, go for the duals. If you want an all around fun to drive car, stick with the 38/38. A lot simpler to make jetting changes and get this dialed in exactly. Some people will call this heresy but I'm telling it like it was. The only place duals really come into their own is on the track. My two cents.

I have a shell from my 76 that's a rust bucket but not as bad as that one. Stuff like this makes me think I should save it. Right now it's being used by one of the tenants in my building who has a laser tag Game Center and is using the shell for a prop. They have that car and another 02 that is way beyond salvage that they are using as hiding spots for the gamers. It looks like they're trying to duplicate the bombed out streets of some war zone. I told them if I need the rear clip I'll come cut it off. I was going to get the junk guy to pick them up but somehow I couldn't bring myself to do it. Then I got the request from my tenants to keep the cars. I figured it would be kind of nice to keep them there for the time being. I'll have to post some shots when I get back there again. Hopefully I'll get some guys posing with there fake assault rifles hiding behind the cars. I hope they do achieve long hood 911 status but I don't think it'll be anytime soon.