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borgpj

Kugelfischer
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About borgpj

  • Birthday 04/13/1947

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  1. When you mount the mirror on the passenger door, be sure to drill the holes in exactly the same places as on the driver's door. Measure back from the front edge of the door for the first hole, and go from there. There is a double steel reinforcement in the door that has specific openings for the mirror base mounting nut-certs. I found that out, of course, by doing it wrong.
  2. Finished and installed my cup-holder. Fits over the e-brake. E-brake still works. Finally have a civilized car!
  3. borgpj

    On the Road Again!

    Thanks to the Covid-19 shutdown, I had a lot of time on my hands. Finally put most of the pieces together again and hit the road. Of course, after 10 years or so of not running, there are a number of new items on the punch list, but that's OK.
  4. Need a flag style passenger side mirror with good glass. Must include the mount. I can fab the gasket if necessary.
  5. The Borgpj 1973 Sahara is on the loose at last. After about 10 years of hibernation in FL, New Orleans and in my barn, most of the bugs have been worked out of it, thanks in no small part to the kind folks on the website. Still need to find some "correct" licence plate lights and fix the A/C, but most everything else works better than I ever expected. Thank you all...
  6. Has anyone else had this experience: Horrible squealing noise under the gear shift area as speed increases, and speedometer erratic and wildly optimistic? The noise comes and goes and varies depending on the speed. I am guessing I have a frayed or dry or kinked speedometer cable that is oscillating within the cable housing, and the vibration is affecting the speedometer functioning. Would rather not have to replace my speedometer. Here are the instrument readings cruising at about 65...
  7. If it will be a non-showcar, I would clear all the rust out of those pits and treat them with a POR product. That area will be covered up by the bumper mount bracket anyway, so nobody will ever see it. Body looks pretty good. Better than my '73 Sahara. Good project. I did not remove all old paint. Just anything that looked questionable or cracked.
  8. After trailering it home from New Orleans 7 years ago, the '73 Sahara is finally alive and running! Zero spark initially, so reinstalled the old points and cap, and fussed with wiring connections. Gave it one more try, and it lit right off. Idled for 25 minutes to verify choke and cooling system worked, set idle speed and mixture, checked dwell, and disconnected the horns, which were blowing spontaneously at random times. Next up: set timing and fix gas gauge and horns. Then drive.
  9. This Covid shutdown has been great for getting things done on our cars. I social distance by retreating to the barn and wrench on the '73 Sahara. Got more done in the last two weeks than the last two years! Dumped in 4 gal gas, for the first fuel in 7 years. Sucked it through the fuel pump and up to the fuel filter with a hand vacuum pump. Glad I had just read the post from the Hack Mechanic on where to locate the fuel filter. I had to change mine to after the fuel pump. Makes sense. 4 NGKs arrived today from Ebay. They sent the "R" version of what I wanted. Can't do the first startup tomorrow☹️. Oh- and cleaned and refinished the BBS 14" wheels I bought this winter in the FAQ.
  10. Installed a speaker in the glovebox ( has anybody else done this??). Also adjusted the valves in preparation to first start-up in 9 years. Could not believe how clean the innards of this engine are, after 175,000 miles.
  11. Bingo! Exactly what I thought. My car has everything yours has except the Hella part. With only two connections, it has to be some sort of buzzer. A relay would have at least three and usually more connections. Not sure if it is supposed to alarm for un-clicked seatbelts or keys left in the ignition. Now I know what to do with that green-white wire: I will insulate it and tie it down. My fear was always that I had forgotten something, with that extra wire dangling down. Now I can move on to the rest of this restoration. Thanks a lot for pulling that cover!!
  12. Question Answered!!! (I think). This enlargement of a 2002 carb USA model 71 wire schematic shows a 9-pin connector (47) for the turn signal switch (48), with the center wire leaving the connector and heading out to the seat-belt buzzer (84). Tracing this wire back the other way shows that it originates from fuse 8, which is always hot (just as my wire is). The red herring in all of this is that diagram shows this wire as RT-WS, not GN-WS as my in my car. Whatever the case, since my buzzer is long gone (as most are), I am going to insulate and secure my Green-White wire and zip-tie it to the column for a good long rest. Thanks to all who helped resolve this mystery.
  13. Time to get the battery back in and check this out. Didn't only the 1973 models have a seatbelt-ignition interlock that would prevent the car from starting if an occupied seat did not have the belt clicked? I can't seem to find any evidence of this on any of the diagrams though.
  14. OK, I thought I could remember stuff, but I took all this apart 4 years ago, and now have no clue where this wire goes (if anywhere). Background: 1973 non-Tii, 4 speed trans, with Behr A/C. This orphaned wire is one of the 9 wires included in the connector on the right side of the steering column. Most of the other wires from this connector go to the turn signal switch. The Green/White wire has an insulated female spade connector and has a black plastic protective sheath. I just don't see anything under the dash with an open connector. I do have the orphaned Brown/Green wire coming from the keyswitch that went to the old seatbelt buzzer. Is the Green/White wire also something that formerly went to a seatbelt interlock or something? I tried looking through the wiring diagrams from the shop manual PDFs, but some of those scans are so grainy you can't make out the GN-WS wires label. Appreciate any help folks can give.
  15. All that said, it is also true that a few brake manufacturers also use small "return springs" attached to the pads that counteract the caliper pistons and nudge back the pads when brake pressure is released. Probably reduces drag and any associated noise. Example: early 2000's Ford F250 Super Duty brakes, but I have rebuilt some automobile brakes with the same design.
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