Jump to content


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Feedback


Community Reputation

24 Excellent

About borgpj

  • Birthday 04/13/1947

Profile Information

  • Gender Array
  • Location Array
  • Interests Array

Recent Profile Visitors

1,916 profile views
  1. Wasn't that headliner install a lot of fun? Best advice is still "take it slow, don't panic".
  2. The tension bar goes under the pin, as in the first photo. I had to post the same question when I recently reinstalled my sunroof.
  3. Uro quarter window seals are available from Pelican Parts for roughly $23.00 each. They worked fine on my 1973, but you do need to remove the quarter windows to install them.
  4. So where was the leak? Hope not a soft plug...
  5. The crank gearbox mechanism has a built-in hardstop for fully closed and fully open. I wonder if the gearbox is reaching an "open limit" when you are cranking it open. Don't force it. If you crank the panel fully closed and remove the gearbox, it should be pretty close to the "closed limit". If not, you can carefully keep cranking the box in the "close" direction until you reach the built-in "closed limit". Once you are there, back it up maybe 1/2 revolution, and reinstall into the roof. You then probably will need to remove the crank handle from the gearbox and re-position is so the crank will fold up into the crank recess.
  6. 3M Weatherstrip Adhesive. Comes in a tube. After the headliner project, my newest best friend.
  7. Thanks much for all the collective wisdom. I think I will order the OEM BMW seals. Lesson learned. I just finished installing the headliner, and fully agree with those who have used the 3M Yellow trim adhesive. I clamped everything and stretched the liner till perfect, and then glued it in section by section with contact cement. I found that even a week later, when I removed the clamps, the tight liner would slowly relax and pull away from the pinch-weld. I ended up re-gluing the entire liner with the 3M product, which holds like crazy. Same for the A and B pillar trim. So now I will forge ahead into the next unknown, with the glass. Thanks again everyone!
  8. OK, I have put it off long enough. Time has come to install windshield glass. Some questions: 1. I keep hearing bad things about the Uro seals. Has anyone out there used them for the front or rear windshields successfully? What advice would you give for using these seals? I bought a set of Uro seals way back two years ago, but could bite the bullet and buy some genuine BMW seals if I have to. I don't want to break my glass... 2. Is it easier to install the front glass with the dash out, or does the dash need to be in place prior to installing glass? (1973 2002, with two piece dash). Thanks...
  9. I did bench bleed the new MC, but it was a three-ring circus. Then I installed it (dripping all the way), and pressure-bled the whole system. Pressure bleed is probably all that was needed. I made a bleeder from a garden sprayer, a spare reservoir cap and a pressure gauge, as some others have done.
  10. Forgot to say, this is on a 1973 2002...
  11. Here you go. Looks like the threaded plate inside the B pillar is about 3/8" thick.
  12. 2+ on double-checking to be sure the springs are installed with the ends tucked into the relief sockets on the front struts. Mine were not, and the front end was aimed toward the sky as a result.
  13. The 1973 Sahara is coming back together. I am curious about the sunroof rear cable attachments to the sliding panel. What is the purpose of the spring-metal swing arms that are attached to the sliding panel and apparently need to be rotated to a fore and aft position under the rod attached to the cable end fittings. Is the arm shown in the picture in the correct position or does it need to be above the rod? Both of my swing arms have now detached themselves from the sliding panel and one got lost. If they are critical to the sliding roof functionality, I will fab up the missing one and re-attached them to the sliding roof again. My slider seems to work OK without them being in place when I did a pre-headliner test fit of the roof.
  14. X2 on the gentle tap using a block of wood. I was re-installing my original trim, which had twisted a bit when removed and needed to be straightened before installation. I got the trim started over the steel gutter, tapped it down gently, and when it was fully seated, twisted the top outward by hand to snap the lower edge under the steel gutter. Then cracked open an adult beverage.

  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.