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About borgpj

  • Birthday 04/13/1947

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  • Gender
  • Location
    Grand Rapids, MI
  • Interests
    Restorations (Motorhomes, cars, boats, homes). Photography. Travel. 4 kids, 9 grandkids. I like cars a lot, but Christ rules!

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  1. Finished with the front suspension bushing replacement tug of war. Tried soaking the buggers in hot water for 20 minutes before installation, but, in the end, it just took lots of weiner-slider and brute force. Glad the job is needed only every 40 years or so.
  2. Finally did the "rotten job", replacing the clutch master. Thanks for all the advice on FAQ on this job. I did discover something interesting: I got some dirt/junk in the hydraulic fluid supply line that comes from the brake fluid reservoir. When I cleaned out the lower end with a q-tip, it came out black with guck. And it just kept coming. Finally I ran a thin wire through the supply tube and attached a cloth swatch, soaked in brake cleaner, pulling it through the tube, like cleaning a gun barrel. Came out absolutely black. Did this 4 more times, till it came our mostly clean. If all this dirt and grit was still in the tube, I wonder if this is why replacement clutch masters can fail so soon, or why the clutch slaves often fail soon after clutch master replacement? Gravity bled the system times 4, working the clutch peddle between bleedings. Even with all other components cleaned or new, the bled fluid looked like chocolate milk. It's good to flush the system every 150,000 or so miles, I guess.
  3. Finally getting around to installing a new clutch master. The old one had the usual prostate problems, and was dribbling hydraulic fluid into the peddle box (for years, probably). The fluid drained down into the foam outer covering of the peddle box. This foam cover came off in pieces, never to be re-used. Are these foam covers still available anywhere? Are they even needed?
  4. Hi all. On the recent discussion about the stolen 1971, someone suggested using a hidden GPS tracker to help find a jacked vehicle. What are the best trackers out there? I would feel much more comfortable having a magnetic tracker I could pop into some hidden space on my 02 whenever we took it out. I would not want to have a monthly fee to some tracking service company though. What's out there? Which work best?
  5. Kinda nippy, wasn't it?
  6. The Nickel-Copper lines I have used have fittings and flares, and come in various lengths. I would get lines that is longer than needed and cut and flare one end to get the exact length needed. Not sure what type of flare is needed, it's been a while since I replaced my lines. I got my lines at O'Reillys.
  7. Nothing wrong with replacing the 40 year old metal hydraulic lines along with the flex hoses. You can get metric Nickel-Copper replacement lines from many auto part dealers, in various lengths. These are easy to bend into an exact match for the original steel lines, and they should last forever.
  8. My best guess: Rear flex lines are plugged, as Popvn suggested. Exactly what happened to me. Disconnected rear of flex line- no fluid would pump out. Disconnected front of flex line- copious fluid. Flex lines totally occluded.
  9. Looks like the seat-belt ignition key alarm wiring. Had something similar under the steering column on my ‘73. Ended up using the hot connection for a usb charger port in my new center console
  10. I wonder if a piece of Pex water pipe might be close enough to the right internal diameter? Pex is semi flexible and could be bent into a "U", and clamped into the heater hose inlet and return lines. It can certainly take the pressure and heat.
  11. Has anyone tried a hand impact driver? The kind you hit with a hammer? I have used these along with Blaster many times to loosen frozen screws. Might need to use an extension because of the tight quarters around the mirror base.
  12. Puller like Halboyles showed above, but when I pulled the last Pitman arm, I needed to heat it as well. I had the puller as tight as I dared, but nothing moved. 5000 degree torch heat played over the arm, and "bang", it broke loose.
  13. Welcome! My story is similar. Could not have gotten out of the batter's box without the FAQ. You might want to to check alignment. Or move your steering wheel over a few splines to the right.
  14. Follow-up: Hey, it worked! I pulled a cluster from an old truck at the local salvage yard and practiced resetting the numbers on it. Found out you really don't need to push out the main number wheel shaft again, but only the shaft with the star-shaped "idlers" on top of the number set. If you press one end of the idler shaft out and lift up on the shaft, it frees up the number cluster. I set the mileage to exactly what it needed to be, and correctly aligned in the mileage window, and then taped the number set so it would not move. The idlers can then be laid over top of the number wheels and its shaft reinserted. This took a lot of fiddling and several tries, but eventually all the stars aligned and I could lock the idler shaft back in place. I pulled the tape and reinstalled the cluster. Aligned perfectly, with the correct mileage. Life is good!
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