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Preyupy

Turbo
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Everything posted by Preyupy

  1. Preyupy
    Any place that the 2 pieces make contact need to be bare metal. If you don't, over time the paint will migrate and the joint will loosen unless you check the bolt torque on a regular basis.
  2. Preyupy
    And don't order pistons until you know what size you need and which head you will plan on using (if you are going with the low compression ratio flat top pistons it does not matter) the E12 and 121 heads use different piston dome designs.
  3. Preyupy
    Ken, I got a bunch of them from IMC I just ordered 11 13 1 727 974 Their number is 215 06012 674
  4. Preyupy
    Also stay away from the "CORK" gaskets. The composite gaskets don't compress at the bolt holes and you get a much better seal across the gasket.
  5. Preyupy
    If the suction valve is stuck this is your problem. Just be really careful putting the pump head in the ultrasonic tank. They do a great job cleaning but the clearances in the pump are so tight if you get any corrosion on the bores or pistons you can have a huge problem. Clean it but get it out and make sure there is no water left in it and get it oiled ASAP.
  6. Preyupy
    I missed coming down this year. Hopefully I’ll see you in September.
  7. Preyupy
    Finally had a weekend off from racing and dug the Turbo out of the garage for a drive. A beautiful day but too much traffic to have much fun. Probably saw 35-40 modern BMWs on the road and not one person even turned their head to look. Did get a headlight flash and a thumbs up from a guy in a Triumph STAG! I of course flashed and waved back, then thought about following him home ( just to make sure he made it ok).
  8. Preyupy
    You said that the injector opens at 425psi but you didn’t say how you tested it? If you swapped the injectors and #1 is still a problem I suspect the pump is not delivering the same amount of fuel to #1 as it is to the other cylinders. The #1 piston in the pump may be sticking, the #1 inlet valve in the pump might be sticking ( open OR closed!). Does it idle like there is a dead cylinder but then run ok under load? If so go back and check for a vacuum leak as previously recommended. If it is dead under load as well again try new plugs and wires. Look carefully at the cap, make sure the contacts are good and there are no cracks.
  9. Preyupy
    My car (an earlier chassis than this one) came with Trapezoid mirrors. It also had the Right side door mirror as well (I suspect this is because of the LHD car being sold in England at the time)
  10. Preyupy
    Original Minilites (12/74 manufacture dates) with 205/60/13's. No clearance issues here.
  11. Preyupy
    England only as far as I know. Paperwork shows it was originally sold in England There were only 43 turbos originally sold in England, from what I understand. Mine was one as well.
  12. Preyupy
    I remember having a look at this car at Monterey in 2016. If I remember correctly the owner was local (Monterey, Carmel area) It was a nice car, it looks like it has been cleaned up some. I can't say I'm a big fan of the new radio but you can always put the Blaupunkt back in it. It says it is being sold by a trust so there is the possibility that it is not just a quick turn around after being purchased last year. Something may have happened.
  13. Preyupy
    If you are just looking at the tensile strength of the threaded fastener you are correct. You must also consider the material you are clamping as well. If you don't stretch the bolt but you do deform the wheel you have gone too far. The lug nuts (bolts) only need to be tight enough to hold the wheel firmly to the hub and NOT back off! Any more than that is un-necessary. I have used 65-70 ft/lbs on all 4 and 5 lug BMW wheels, both steel and alloy, for over 45 years and have never had one come loose (even on race cars)
  14. Preyupy
    The stock system runs the same line pressure front and rear ( it is a Non Stepped dual master cylinder) the actual braking force is balanced by the caliper piston/rear wheel cylinder sizes. So if you are going to change to a disc brake in the rear picking the piston size is going to be the hard part if you don’t want to run some kind of proportioning valve. If you are going to try and run without the booster and put the master cylinder in the pedal box there really isn’t enough room for 2 cylinders and a balance bar so your best bet is a single dual stage master and a proportioning valve.
  15. Preyupy
    Use the Limited slip compatible oils just don't add the "additive" that is often used in the domestic Limited Slip units.
  16. Preyupy
    Any good Hypoid gear oil will do. I like the Redline 75/140 Shockproof or Swepco 210 80/140 for our race cars. Do not use any "limited slip" additive (common in most domestic limited slip axles) The thicker oils leave a better coating on the gears and bearings which is important on cars that don't get used on a regular basis. This helps prevent moisture from causing a problem.
  17. Preyupy
    The Turbo radiators are wider (on the left side) but the same thickness and height as the standard radiator. I suspect that in the process of mounting the larger radiator they did not attach it correctly to the core support. They would have had to modify the core support to make it fit (the opening is wider and the mounts on the left side are obviously moved as well) If this car has had a 5 speed transmission fitted the rear trans mount might not be in the right location like Dlacey said.
  18. Preyupy
    Looks like something to put on the shelf and look at. With the available parts today I sure would not put these in a race engine. #1 reason is the idea of the eccentric/bolt in single shear does not inspire confidence. #2 reason is why would you put a rare unobtainable INSIDE and engine where no one but you will even know (or care) that it is there. Rocker arms are a consumable part, even the good ones don't last forever.
  19. Preyupy
    The locking caps usually spin free when they are locked so you can position them however you want. If yours does not you need to take the hose off the back of the filler neck inside the trunk. Remove the neck and reclock it so your cap sits the way you want it. Put it all back together. Make sure to use a new gasket and make sure the hose is tight.
  20. Preyupy
    I think there are a couple of bosses on the blocks that are different (Mounts for A/C compressors, and brackets) You will just need to have a look and see if the ones you need are on the block you are trying to use.
  21. Preyupy
    I have found that the later blocks have a much more consistent cylinder wall thickness. If I am going to try and bore a block to 92mm or larger I always have them sonic inspected to make sure there is enough wall thickness. The early blocks have shown to have some core shift in the castings and they can get a bit thin in places if you are not careful. At anything under 91mm I would still choose the later block just because of the weight (for race engines). If you are cracking a block something else is wrong.
  22. Preyupy
    The oil pressure relief happens AFTER the oil filter/oil cooler adaptor as well as the oil pressure sensor. There is no chance your adaptor is causing you any trouble. What weight oil are you running? 100+psi on a cold engine is not out of the ordinary. There is the possibility that you have a restriction in the bypass tube that runs down the front of the block from the oil galley to the pressure relief valve in the pump. The spray bar is not a direct connection to the oil galley, the camshaft has slots machined in the center journal that opens and closes the oil passage way as the cam turns. The oil flow from the spray bar pulses and flow is restricted. There is also the possibility that the banjo bolt may have been over tightened at some point and the tube is crushed limiting the oil flow.
  23. Preyupy
    Speed costs $$$$$ How fast do you want to spend?
  24. Preyupy
    If you have not personally confirmed your timing marks are correct (OT mark on flywheel lines up with the flat edge in the bell housing window WHEN the #1 & #4 pistons are at TOP DEAD CENTER) you are making assumptions you should not be making. Also check the timing mark on the camshaft as well. If you are making maximum TORQUE at 45 deg BTDC with a M10 something major is wrong. I have spent the last 40+ years building M10 & M30 street and racing engines. Everything from stock 1600s to 390hp 3.5l Group2 CSL race engines ( with 2002 TURBO engines as well). NOTHING has ever wanted more than 38 deg ( and that was a 6.9:1 compression ratio stock 2002 TURBO OFF BOOST!) Running retarded will raise temperatures and running too much advance will cause detonation, blown head gaskets and burned pistons.
  25. Preyupy
    Have you actually checked your timing with a light? I have NEVER seen a M10 engine that wanted 45 deg of advance! I know your 123 app says 45 deg but you need to confirm that the distributor is installed so that 0 degree is REALLY 0 deg. Lock it at 25 deg and put a timing light on it and you should see the ball on the flywheel .
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