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About Preyupy

  • Birthday 12/14/1954

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  1. I hope he kept all of the original parts and they come with it.
  2. While you have it on the stand with everything off of it. Why don't you take the head off and look at the bores (look for rust pitting and scratches) and have a general look at the overall condition. I will give you a good reason to pull the oil pan and clean the sludge out of the bottom. pull the front covers and replace the gaskets and seals, same with the rear crank seal. The cost is virtually nothing but your time and it is very easy to do with common hand tools. You may decide to take it all apart and do a full refresh depending on what your plans are but with it sitting on the stand why wouldn't you at least have a look?. If it was still in the car and you could start it I would say run it and after a few miles do the compression test again, if you still get low numbers try and leak down test and you can figure out why the compression is low, (valves or rings)
  3. Compression numbers on a engine that has been sitting for 2 years are questionable at best. The fact that they are even across the cylinders makes me think it's not all that bad. You did not say how many miles are on it or what year and specification it is. A stock Flat top piston E12 engine only makes a little over 8:1 compression. With a sea level atmospheric pressure of 14.7 psi compress that 8X and you get 117.6psi. The number will be better if it has higher compression pistons but then will go back down some with a higher lift camshaft. In other words 100 psi at cranking speeds on a engine that has sat that long does not sound all that bad to me.
  4. Just checking, you don't have the polyurethane engine mounts do you? I have a number of race cars where the M10 engine is bolted directly to the chassis less than 10" behind your butt. A perfectly balanced M10 VIBRATES A LOT at low engine speeds. There is a reason the stock mounts are so soft.
  5. I sure would check the balance of the pressure plate and flywheel BEFORE I tore my engine apart looking for a vibration. By the time you get the engine far enough apart to get the crank out the only thing holding the head on are 10 head bolts! The head gasket sticks out the front of the block far enough to fit between the upper and lower timing covers, you have to take both of them off anyway and the chance of you getting the covers back on around the old head gasket and NOT having an oil leak are slim to none. If the block has been recently rebuilt I would suggest you DO NO remove the pistons from the cylinders. Make yourself a piece of wood that will cover the tops of the 4 cylinders and push the pistons all the way to the top of the bores and you will be able to remove the crank. It will be helpful if you have an extra pair of hands to hold the con rods when you are ready to put the crank back in.
  6. Halon is no longer available here. But I have stockpiled 20-25 of them and they are strategically scattered around my garage and there is a hand held one in each car. My recommendation for your garage are a couple of big CO2 extinguishers, they are very effective even on electrical and fuel fires and leave no residue. They are not cheep but well worth it.
  7. I had a 228 mm pressure plate come apart on a race car years ago at somewhere over 7500 rpm. The entire bell housing was gone and the only thing supporting the front of the transmission was the input shaft pilot was still in the end of the crank (I have no idea how!!) There were 2 holes in the hood, fortunately none of it made it into the drivers foot box.
  8. You can remove the crank with the head still installed and the block in the car but it will take 4-5 times the amount of time it will take you to pull the engine, mount it on a stand. Pull the head, oil pan, front timing cover, flywheel and pistons. What makes you think it needs to be balanced? They are very good right out of the factory usually. If you are going to pull the crank out you should at least put new rings on the pistons ( don’t forget to hone the block 1st) and look carefully at the bearings, you might want to change them as well. When you have it balanced make sure you take the front pulley, flywheel, bolts, and pressure plate. I have seen shops balance the entire assembly as one unit DO NOT LET THEM DO THIS!!! Balance the crank alone, then install the front pulley ( any change in balance needs to be fixed with machining the pulley). Now add the flywheel and do it all over again (again only machining on the flywheel to correct the balance). Now bolt up the pressure plate ( no clutch disc!) mark the pressure plate so you know how it was positioned on the flywheel and balance everything again. If you do it this way if you ever need to replace the pulley, flywheel or pressure plate you don’t need to pull the crank out again, you can just Zero balance each piece before you install it.
  9. Got it out of the garage and took it for a drive. The 1st Corona Classic Car Rally. We met in a vacant parking lot. Parked no closer than 2 spaces apart. Talked for about 10 min (12-15’ apart) then went for a drive. At the end we flashed our lights at each and waved goodbye and each of us headed home. IMG_4685.mov
  10. If the pivot was off by 6mm you have found a major problem. take the clutch disc and hold it up to the fly wheel by hand. Does it make full contact across the surface? The marking on the ID of the fly wheel friction face does not worry me and I don't seen any signs of heat checking on either the fly wheel or pressure plate to suggest and chatter problems. Just for general information are the springs in the center of the disc all about the same tension when you try and move them by hand?
  11. Was the flywheel surfaced AFTER the lightning work was done? Take a machinists straight edge and check it for flatness. Remember there should still be a 0.3mm step between the pressure plate mounting surface and the friction surface. About the problem with bleeding the system, what transmission are you using? If it is a 242 or 245/5 from a e21 with the slave cylinder mounted up on the side of the bell housing ( not hanging below the bell housing like a standard ‘02 box) you need to mount the slave with the bleed screw POINTED DOWN!! It is not intuitive but the bleeder is ported to the far side of the cylinder internally, if you mount it with the bleeder up you can’t get 1/2 of the air out of the cylinder. This is also a real pain to hook up and route the hose, but it’s what you have to do.
  12. I'm guessing the people that looked at it in person found a number of detail issues that, although fixable, just didn't add up to a spectacular result. The major auctions at places like Amelia Island, Scottsdale and Monterey (to name a few) probably are not the places that are going to bring the highest price for a Turbo. In the world of the big auctions anything under $250k is going to sell as non reserve and of the 91 lots Gooding had up last weekend a 2002 Turbo was one of the more "Affordable" cars going across the block. The people that show up at the auctions have spent money to get there and put themselves in a hotel for a few nights. They come knowing what is available and have done there research if they are going to actually take a run at something. The fact that we could see detail problems with this car (that in the process of restoration could have easily been corrected if they just thought about them) means that there were probably a number of other issues that were obvious when they looked at it in person. The shop that restored this car is known to the BMW community and it is well documented that in the past they have missed some major details in the process of the restorations. For instance, in the process of preparing the car for paint it would have taken almost no time at all to cut out the snorkel from the radiator support, fabricate a replacement piece, weld it in and finish it so that no one would ever know it was there, then paint the car. Now to do that work you would need to remove the radiator and move some wiring, cut it out and do the repair and then try to spot paint it so it matches (doable but a real PITA and probably 10X the cost to do it in the 1st place). If it's just a incorrect or missing trim piece or something that just bolts on it's just an issue of getting the right part and installing it. If it requires stripping metal and repainting the scope of the repair is just more than most people are willing to spend top dollar on. It would not surprise me if this car shows up again in a couple of years with most of these details taken care of, For the price paid for this car I am guessing someone will take the time and money and get it right, it's a good solid car and there is still room to spend some money on it and come out OK.
  13. I agree with Les, the Ti did not have a fuel return line so there was no need to use a different pickup than the standard '02. Someone has built some kind of surge tank in that "race" tank. there is also some kind of vent or tube coming out of the fuel level sensor, I suspect there is no sensor bits inside of that housing.

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