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Preyupy

Turbo
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Preyupy last won the day on September 20

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About Preyupy

  • Birthday 12/14/1954

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    Issaquah WA

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  1. You can used the Nerus valve cover, it’s a interesting piece of history but about the only thing of value on that engine.
  2. I think what you misheard in that conversation was “Nerus” this was a company that was building M10 engines for racing and they had a 2 stage dry sump system that worked in the sports racers. They also were the 1st ones to actually build a 2 liter M10. In 1964 BMW only made 1500, 1600, and 1800cc engines. At that time the 1800 was a “long stroke” design that used the 1600 bore (84mm) and a 80mm stroke instead of the 71mm used on the 1600. They figured out they could over bore the block to 89mm, that is a 5mm overbore!! It wasn’t until 1966 that BMW started making a 2 liter 89mm bore, 80mm stroke and started casting the blocks with enough cylinder wall thickness so there was room to go past 89mm. This is also the same time they started making a “short stroke” 1800 using the 89mm bore but using the 71 mm stroke from the 1600. As far as value for an original “Nerus” BMW it is not very much. I seriously doubt that the block is original as there was no way to even go 1 oversize because the cylinder walls were to thin. The chance hat a race engine from almost 60 years ago has not needed a rebuild is virtually 0. The cylinder heads they used were 118 and the ports were very small and when they opened them up to basically the size of a stock 121 head (again this did not happen until about 1966) they did not live very long because they cracked. The engines were mounted in the cars at about 12deg instead of the 30 deg tilt n the street cars so the intake manifolds are different to keep the carbs level as well as the oil pan pickup is in a different location. Basically other than a piece of BMW history there is nothing on a original engine from back then that anyone would use in a car any longer. The dry sump system uses the early gear type oil pump and then has a external single stage scavenge pump that is driven off the stock internal pump. Everyone in vintage racing around the world are running 3 stage external dry sump pumps, 2 liter blocks and heads ( 121, E12, E21, 1.8 ) and all of the modern cams, rockers, rods, pistons etc.
  3. There were 2 different “Tii” clocks ( Motometer and Kenzie) I don’t know when they switched from one to the other ( I’m sure the Tii gurus can fill in this gap). The turbo clock was VDO and according tho the parts book it was unique to the Turbo.
  4. The original “FW” series Coventry Climax engines were single overhead cam, non cross flow, alloy block. They were as small as 750cc and were used in stationary water pumps. They were discovered by racers to be very light for the HP they developed. The engines were also used on a BEARCAT outboard boat motor. They were expanded to 1100cc and became the engine of choice for a modified race car class that was under 1100cc. It was then expanded to 1220cc for use in the 1959 Lotus Elite and also used in the under 1300cc racing classes. There are some that run as large as 1460cc and are very common in vintage racing in Lotus XI and Lola Mk1 in F Modified. Coventry made its 1st purpose built “race” engine called the FPF. This was an alloy block DOHC cross flow, dry sump, 4 cylinder engine. They came in 1.5 liter, 2.0 liter. 2.5 liter and 2.7 liter (This was designed for Indy car racing). As far as a Lotus with a M10 BMW engine there were a couple of Lotus 23B sports racers built by the factory that used the M10 instead of the Kent Ford based “Lotus Twin Cam”. This was done when the class rules moved the engine displacement up from 1600 cc to 2000 cc. The 1600 cc BMW did not make as much power as the Lotus Twin Cam and weighed about 20 lbs more but the Twin cam could not be enlarged to 2 liters and with the increase in displacement the BMW made enough more HP to offset the weight difference. The direct competitor to the Lotus 23 was the Elva Mk7 and they came with a number of different engines depending on what class you were running. The majority of the last 25 -30 cars came with the BMW M10 as well as the 3 GT160 coupes ( one actually ran at LeMans in 1964)
  5. They are a VDO dealer. They do a lot of this for the Porsche and Mercedes groups as well.
  6. If you can’t find one you might send yours to North Hollywood Speedometer and they can install a VDO clock mechanism and keep the hands and face so it looks correct.
  7. Did you put in the right size main and rod bearings? If you didn’t measure the crank how do you know?
  8. If you think it is a master cylinder not returning all the way you can check it by jus opening the bleed screw on the slave. If you release pressure you have a master cyl problem, if it just drips you don’t. I’m guessing you have a clutch problem. I never remove a gearbox without replacing at least the disc unless I know for sure how old it is. Just putting your used engine/trans/clutch in was taking a huge risk, it looks like it didn’t pay off this time.
  9. If you are using the original clutch, pressure plate, throw out bearing and slave cylinder with the 260 trans you should be ok. If you changed the TOB or any other part you might not have any free play between the TOB pressure plate ( yes I know the TOB is always in contact with the PP but you need to make sure the slave is not depressing the PP fingers when you are off the clutch pedal)
  10. Are you sure you have not bottomed the slave cylinder and are partially depressing the pressure plate?
  11. Just happened to have a new engine sitting on a stand without a flywheel.
  12. The block sits proud of the crankshaft by 0.065"
  13. Contact the auction house. The plan was to move what ever didn’t sell and continue trying to sell what’s left. It was very picked through by Saturday afternoon.
  14. I had a good look at this car a couple years ago and it is very complete and as far as I could tell all the correct parts (Turbo included) were there. For some reason when the diff was rebuilt at some point in its life it got painted red. I have no idea why.
  15. Is this a 4 speed or a 5 speed out of a e21? You can pull the front case section off with the bearing still in the housing. You can remove the circlip on the input shaft and make a puller that grabs the housing and pushes the input shaft through the bearing. if it is a 5 speed you also need to remove the plug in the side and remove the detent spring and plunger. Again if it is a 5 speed you need to remove the bolts that hold the front housing to middle housing ( some of them go all the way through the back cover) but leave the bolts that hold the back cover to the middle housing. LONG STORY SHORT if you have never pulled one apart and put it back together you are probably time and money ahead just putting it in the car and driving it, if it does not make noise and shifts ok you hit a home run. If you are going to try and crack it open and get it back together working without the special tools you are going to spend HOURS figuring it out and you will probably mess something up in the process ( they don’t just slide back together either). IF YOU DO DECIDE TO PULL IT APART MAKE SURE YOU PAY ATTENTION TO WHERE ALL THE SPACER SHIMS GO!!!
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