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Preyupy

Turbo
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About Preyupy

  • Birthday 12/14/1954

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  1. Paul, I’m sure they are leaking around the electrical connector right at the pump body. On my test rig ( much like yours) it was easy to spot. I tried replacing the o-rings but still no go.
  2. I have 3 stock pumps that all leak at the electrical connecter. They all work and flow roughly the same as Paul's pump and all make at least 100 psi of pressure but I can't use them because of the leaking. The pump bodies are crimped together and I have not taken the time to try and open one up to see if I can repair it. If there is someone out there rebuilding these pumps I would be interested in having them take a look at these (besides being the correct pumps for Tii's and Turbo's the factory also used them on the Gp5 CSL race cars and I would love to put them back on this one)
  3. They are fantastic, good in wet weather, reasonable amount of road noise (compared to Sumitomo 205/60/13 and Michelin 185/70/13 XDX) they look proper. The steering effort is roughly equal to the XDX and a bit lighter than the Sumitomo. They track straight on the rutted roads around here. I am very happy with them. I don't have more than 1000 miles on them yet so I can't compare ware rates but no matter what I expect they will time out before they wear out. If you want ultimate cornering you will want one of the R compound "race tires" but for general street use you will be hard pressed to fine a better 185/70/13 at any price (the CN36 is roughly 1/2 the price of the Michelin XDX)
  4. Tell him to go ahead and PayPal you the funds and as soon as they clear he can pick up the car. Make sure you keep a copy of all of your emails to show to PayPal when it all turns to S__T. Don't just wait for it to show up, actually transfer it to your account and leave a 0 balance with PayPal BEFORE you release the car. He is responsible for shipping and you will not pay the transport CO on his behalf, he must deal with them directly. If he wants you to hold the car for an inspection set a time limit and demand a 10-20% deposit (non refundable unless the inspection actually happens and there is some MAJOR problem found with the car) That should scare him off if it is a scam.
  5. One of the hardest parts of welding cast exhaust manifolds is the contamination from the carbon deposits inside the cracks. Like Toby I have found pre/post heating and nickel filler rod to be what works for me. I had a Turbo manifold repaired many years ago by a guy that pieces old Hemi blocks back together and it has stood up very well (they are cast stainless !!)
  6. I have seen a lot of damaged M10 cranks in my life but this is a new one. I had a original turbo block that had 6 of the 10 head bolt holes cracked because some Hammer Head ran the bolts in with a air gun without removing the oil in the holes. 2 liter M10 cranks are cheep enough I doubt you can have this repaired for the cost of a replacement. I'll bet someone can repair it but to weld it up, re-tap the threads, grind the seal surface as well as the flywheel mounting face along with the damage to the heat treat due to the welding just isn't worth it.
  7. Sorry but that crank needs to be turned into a table lamp. A “repair sleeve” is only for making a surface with a wear groove smooth so a lip seal will seal correctly. My guess is someone ran a flywheel bolt in with an impact gun either cross threaded or with dirt in the threads.
  8. There is something wrong, with the larger Turbo Radiator, the larger “tropic” fan (I have never seen a turbo with the small 4 blade fan) and a 80 deg C T-stat my car will idle <1000rpm on a 100 deg F day and never get above mid gauge (actual 190 deg F). First thing to do is put a thermometer (or use an infrared heat gun) and check to see how accurate your gauge is ( a poor ground will cause the gauge to read high, does the needle move when you turn on the lights or heater fan? If so you have some bad contacts in the dash) the next step would be to see how much temp drop there is from the top to bottom of the radiator ( it might need to be flushed). You might also have a badly corroded water pump that is not pumping efficiently at low rpms. Retarded ignition timing will also make it run hot.
  9. Break in the new cam and rockers with some break in oil!!!!
  10. You say it goes lean when you get off the throttle. Many of the fuel injection systems completely turn off the injectors when they see a closed throttle signal from the TPS AND the RPM is above a certain speed (usually 1300-1400 rpm) If the engine decelerates too quickly it might stall before the ECU can turn the injectors back on and actually get some fuel all the way to the cylinders. You might also try setting the idle speed you want with the throttle plate and use the IAC to raise the idle speed for cold start or when the A/C compressor is running (if you have A/C) so any lag time between the ECU and the IAC does not let the idle fall below your selected speed.
  11. You just need to understand the ports on both sides of the stock water pump were on the inlet side of the pump, there was no cross over even with the stock pump. If the heater valve was closed there just was no flow through the left side inlet.
  12. There is NO PASSTHROUGH the old water pump housing, You are pumping water INTO it. It is just a housing that allows you to attach a hose that then puts the water into the block.
  13. You are not "recycling" water back into the engine without cooling it. The water running through the heater core is cooling even more effectively that it would going through the radiator, If you are not running the heater the valve is closed and there is no flow at all. If you look at the diagram the water from the heater core is put back into the system at #11 which is the INLET of the water pump then it goes directly into the engine and back out #12 at the back of the head, this is EXACTLY what would happen if you run the heater return into the inlet side of the electric pump. The external T-stat allows full water pump flow through the engine even when it is cold by opening the port to the #4 "water branch flange" so the water goes directly from the top of the engine back through the water pump and through the engine. At the same time the T-stat closes the port on the bottom of the housing to the radiator so no water is flowing through the Radiator. As the temperature comes up the T-stat closes the return port and starts to open the port to the radiator. At full temp the upper port should be fully closed and the bottom one fully open. This is why when people think that they can just gut the t-stat because their engines are overheating you wind up with 50%of the water circulating through the engine without going through the radiator.
  14. You need to pump water INTO the old pump housing to get it into the block. The water flow to the heater core comes FROM the back of the head (this is hot water) through the heater core and then needs to go to a low pressure point in the system so you get some flow, you can't dump it into the top of the radiator because this is still a high pressure point in the system. The lowest pressure point in the entire system is at the electric water pump inlet. If you want to dump it back into the top of the radiator you will need a circulation pump for the heater (MB and Audi use them to make sure there is enough hot water flowing at low engine speeds)


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