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About Preyupy

  • Birthday 12/14/1954

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  1. You should not need to resize the big ends the bolts are not a hard press into the rod (if I was building a race engine I would check the rods with the new bolts torqued to spec.) Flywheel bolts are probably not a bad idea (just make sure you get the right ones, there are long and short) and make sure you have the alignment dowel in the crank to locate the flywheel. The Pressure plate bolts should be 10.9 grade, I'm not a fan of 8.8 grade bolts here, it would not surprise me if someone in the past has used them.
  2. It will make a difference which engine you are working on. If it is a M10 and you are doing a stock build (no big cams, compression ratio, or over 6500 rpm rev limit) I would recommend you replace the connecting rod bolts and nuts just because you have no idea if someone in the past has over torqued them or it has been over-reved badly in the past. Everything else should be ok to reuse. If you are working on a M20 there are a number of fasteners that are single use.
  3. It helped to keep oil from running up the keyway in the pulley and out from behind the nut and washer holding the pulley to the crank. I don't think I have ever seen one leak there and I'm sure most of the original ones got left on the machine shop floor many years ago.
  4. One of the major problems with only using the "ball on flywheel @ xxxx RPM" is you are assuming that it has the correct distributor AND it is working EXACTLY the was it was designed and built 45 years ago. In all cases 25 degrees of advance (this includes the amount of advance you have by where the housing is set PLUS the amount of centrifugal advance inside the distributor) is always somewhere along the centrifugal advance curve. If you raise or lower the rpm by as little as 50 rpm you change the amount of advance you have. If the springs have gone soft inside the distributor you will get more advance sooner in the RPM range. If the weights are sticking it may cause the advance to stick either going up or down. The most critical setting is maximum advance at full throttle, this is where you will damage things if it is not right. Depending on your engine this could be anywhere from 30-36 deg BTDC. If you set your timing at 25 deg @ 1400 rpm and your distributor still has another 15 deg of advance in it before it tops out (this usually happens around 3000 +/- RPM) you are going to be at 40 deg when you run the engine up. If you set the distributor at 25 deg at 2200 and there is only 4-5 deg of advance left in the distributor you will be around 30 deg at full throttle. It also matters how much vacuum advance you have (if you have any at all) and this is very hard to check unless you have a distributor machine or check it at full throttle on a Dyno. I have spent hours on dynos just working out how much advance engines want all through the rpm range. Changing carburetors and even exhaust make very little difference in what the engine wants for timing, it is more dependent on Compression Ratio, Camshaft, and Combustion Chamber design. I have found that my best racing engines want 2-3 degrees more advance at peak torque than they want at peak HP. I can gain 4 hp by backing the timing off 2 degrees but then I loose 3-4 lb/ft of torque. The modern electronic ignition systems allow me to back off the timing to give me the best of both worlds that the original distributors would not let me do.
  5. What rocker arms are you running? I’ve had them hit the oil spray bar but that is with a 316 or 336 cam! If you are hitting with the valve end of the rocker that almost has to be a cam with a ton of metal removed from the base circle of the cam and the oversized adjustment eccentrics adjusted almost all the way down. Unless someone has surfaced the TOP of the head and/or cam cover.
  6. "race pistons"? If they were trying to make more power normally aspirated they probably are running a lot more compression. EXACTLY WHAT YOU DON'T WANT in a turbo engine.
  7. You should be able to see where the tensioner is by just taking the valve cover off. I would suspect a valve adjuster has backed off over a tensioner failure.
  8. Are you measuring in INCHES or Millimeters? The Schrick specification is 0.25MM or 0.01inches. You can run as tight as 0.008inch and you measure between the tip of the valve and the eccentric (NOT between the cam and rocker arm)
  9. I think those are the original "Skidmark" rockers. I have not used any of them nor have I actually seen any 1st hand. I suspect the adjusters are broken because someone over tightened the lock nuts.
  10. The early T-stat that is mounted at the front of the head in place of the water outlet was used on the early NK cars. The actual thermostat was dual acting like our external style and did circulate water through the engine until it warmed up, then closed off the recirc. And opened to the radiator. The housings are very hard to find and working thermostats Togo in those housings are even rarer.
  11. Another person that needs to read the definition of "RESTORATION" maybe "Freshly built Boy Racer" I sure hope that is a fiberglass hood, if you need to LIFT OFF a steel hood every time you want to check the oil you are going to need a passenger seat.
  12. Not what I would call a "restoration" More like Hey I got it running!!
  13. Pierce Manifolds used to sell a good quality set of manifolds as well. I have used them for years on race engines ( I had to match port them to my heads so I never checked them against a stock head.).
  14. Both the adhesive and the vinyl are subject to the ravages of time. I have some sheets of motorsport striping that I got back in the late 70's and tried to use some of it a couple of years ago. In a couple of places it cracked when I tried to unroll it and the adhesive is not very strong. I have a Turbo Stripe Kit that I bought back in 02-03 and I discovered the dye lots were different from one piece to the other. BMW sold the pieces individually and this kit was made up by ordering each piece by number. In 2009 when I was ready to install it on the car is when I discovered the color problems. At that time I was told the only way to buy a stripe kit was as a complete kit just for this reason.
  15. My Eyecrometer my be off but that looks like a larger bolt spacing than our 4x100mm pattern. That plus the area around the bolt holes looks different than the set I have. Before you make them an offer you should check to see if it will fit.

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