Preyupy

Turbo
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About Preyupy

  • Birthday 12/14/1954

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  • Gender Male
  • Location Issaquah WA

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  1. The other trick is getting all of the carbon deposits from the exhaust leaking through that crack out. This is a huge issue with contaminated welds.
  2. Or find a good used Tii manifold. They are out there and probably about the same price as having yours repaired properly. In todays world of crazy values for Tii's you are better off with a stock manifold. On a stock engine and intake system I have not seen dyno proof of any significant performance improvement with a header. And under most conditions you will wind up with drivability problems if you change any part of the intake, exhaust, camshaft combination because the injection system was calibrated for a very specific air flow through the engine. There is a reason Alpina had special injection pumps for their modified engines, even the ones with the stock throttle body and intake system.
  3. Turbo on Bring A Trailer

    I'm guessing anyone that is bidding now is looking to have their name on the "I took a run at a 2002 Turbo on BAT" list. The real bidding is going to start in about 5 1/2 days and will probably start getting serious at around $150k. The last hour should be exciting.
  4. Which VDO Oil Pressure Sending Unit

    That is an adaptor. Normally the sender threads directly into the housing at the back of the head. It almost looks like it might be 1/4"npt if someone modified it. There are a lot of housings that have had the threads stripped in years past and often people just run a pipe tap in and then make an adaptor. There are 2 different threads for the stock senders over the years. There is a 12mm x 1.5 thread and I believe a 10mm x 1.0 thread (there was a fine pitched sender used on some early cars I just can't remember the exact size off the top of my head)
  5. Those are carbon core wires so I doubt that is the problem. If you turn the engine like you are adjusting the valve lash and at the poin you would be adjusting each valve you can take a flat blade screwdriver and push on the back side of the adjuster. You can compare the opening pressure on each valve this way. A broken spring will be very noticeable.
  6. Replace or repair: header

    That looks like a Stahl headed, definitely NOT OE. If it is corroded badly there really is no way to save it. If it just the end after the collector you can repair it but reproducing the stock flare at the end to use the stock exhaust donut and flanges can be tricky to fabricate.
  7. Most modern rev limiters do not like solid core copper wires. There is some RF feedback and it causes the limiter to trigger early. It is just counting pulses per second and if it sees anything extra it just adds to the count and assumed you are already at your limit even if you aren’t. MSD has had the instructions “No Solid Core Wires” on everything they have made for at least the last 35 years. I run into this at least 10 times a year with someone at the track with a misfire. Disconnect the rev limiter and it goes away, then they want to blame the limiter, put a new one on and you get the same orobkem all over again.
  8. Do you know for a fact that it ran well with the 300deg cam and the carburetor jetting you currently have in the car at some point? You have changed all of the ignition pieces and the misfire happens at exactly the same engine speed load or no load? Are you sure the tachometer is reading correctly? You should be able to calculate your engine speed based on MPH. I have seen electronic tachometers that have internal issues that cause a misfire, try running it with the wire from the coil to the tach disconnected. Try adjusting the rev limiter as high as it will go or turn it off if possible. If you are getting some kind of electrical feedback you might be getting some kind of false trigger of the limiter. If you were still running points I would suspect points bounce and the limiter will trigger early when that happens.
  9. If it was doing the same thing with a different distributor, coil etc then my guess is you might have a broken valve spring. If you are running dual springs you might have a broken inner spring.
  10. Gasket Dressing & Sealant

    Gaskacinch and 272 only if you are planning on ever taking it apart again. Or if you know someone you really hate will be the next one working on it. Someone used Gaskacinch on a valve cover gasket many years ago and I thought I was going to need explosives to get the cover off. Then it took me an hour to clean it all off. Probably the most expensive valve adjustment ever.
  11. What is this part?

    The tube is for the air pump supply to the thermo reactor. Part of the emission equipment that has obviously been removed. I would recommend replacing the thermo reactor with either a stock early 2002 (preferably a Tii) exhaust manifold or one of the shorty headers that are now available. Unless you are planning on some fairly serious engine modifications a long tube header is not going to buy you anything.
  12. Ideas on installing three gauges?

    Volts would be easier. Oil pressure and temp are a good choice.
  13. Ideas on installing three gauges?

    I was going to say something about volts and Amps. I'm guessing you are a suspenders AND belt guy? I'm with mike, the wiring for an Ammeter is way more complicated than it is worth.
  14. What Wheels Should I Put On It?

    Steve, that is a big ???. What diameter do you want to run? I love the look of 13" wheels but finding tires is the big problem these days. With those fenders you have a lot of room but if you go with a lot of width in the front you start having trouble at full lock hitting the rear of the wheel well. In the old days Pirelli made a 215/60/13 and a 235/60/13 CN36 that would have looked great on 7-8" front wheels and 8-9" rears that would have filled those fenders. The 1st thing you need to do is put a set of your race wheels and tires on there and see how much room you have and what wheel offset you can get away with. I can't wait to see it done. You are inspiring me to do some work on my '70, time to pull those fenders out of the shed and use them!
  15. The factory spec for the injectors is 30-38 kp/cm² or 425-540 PSI