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Preyupy

Turbo
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Preyupy last won the day on November 24

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About Preyupy

  • Birthday 12/14/1954

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    Issaquah WA

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  1. You can do it without a gasket but you need to compensate for the thickness to preload the end float on the bearing. There should be shims in the cover that contact the bearing. You want 0.002- 0.0025” of compression. Easiest way to check it is assemble it dry and tighten the bolts then loosen them, check the gap between the case and cover with a feeler gauge. Add or subtract spacers until you get the right gap.
  2. Remember that the Turbo used the larger 250mm drums (same as E21) and a 22mm wheel cylinder along with a brake bias valve. Stock I always found the stock Tii set up to be a bit heavy on front wheel brake bias.
  3. With at stock engine (cam, compression etc) other than noise you will get much HP and torque out of a 2BBL manifold and a 32/26 or 38/38 as you will get out of a set of DCOE's. The longer intake runner along with the plenum in the 2BBL manifold will help the low-mid range torque. The DCOE's will give you better throttle response but no more actual torque down low. As far as tuning and maintenance on the DCOE's once you get them jetted correctly the only thing you should need to do is check the sync once in a while. This really depends on the type of linkage you use to connect them together and to the throttle pedal and where you put the throttle return springs (if you put the linkage on one end of the throttle shaft DON'T put the spring on the other end of the shaft, you can twist the shafts) As far as tuning DCOE's, unless you have someone that knows what they are doing, do it for you, you will spend a small fortune on jets trying to get it right. Multiply everything by 4. Main jets are $5.16ea, Air corrector jets are $5.68ea, Idle Jets $5.38, Emulsion Tubes $17.75ea, Accelerator pump jets $9.40ea. And a ton of time playing around trying to find out what works best (assuming you start off with the correct Chokes and Aux venturies). The trick is trying to get it to go from Idle circuit to main circuit smoothly and everything I posted above is what you need to work with to get that done. There is also the fact you will just have to LEARN how to drive a car with DCOE's, they are NEVER going to work like your modern fuel injected whatever. As a daily driver they are also going to KILL your fuel mileage (at least for a while). You will love the sound when you open them up so much you will slow down just so you can speed up again, over and over and over again.
  4. You can install a Quaife QDF4N ATB diff in a 2002 or 4 bolt side cover e21 case using what ever ring and pinion ratio you want. You will need the side bearing carriers #33111200682 as well as a set of late "clip in" style output shafts.
  5. I do all my tuning on either an engine or chassis dyno with AFR logging along with all of the other engine parameters.
  6. I agree, with our engines with no intercooler or knock sensor (and by today's standard, totally archaic fuel and ignition systems) I don't go over 12.5-12.8 AFR at full boost. It does not make more power and the exhaust temps go up dramatically which is a big reason we have Manifold and Turbo issues. I have tried as low as 11.5 with virtually NO loss of power on the dyno.
  7. If I remember correctly they asked me the mileage when I applied for the plate. You are allowed 2000 mi/year “limited use” but they have never checked in over 12 years. You are much more likely to run into trouble with your insurance company if you have it on a “collector” policy and they ask any you were driving it on a Wed afternoon in rush hour traffic when you rear ended that SUV? About the only way a cop is going to even notice you is if you both wind up seeing each other over and over on the same route and he figures out you are commuting, this is highly unlikely. There is a much bigger chance of them asking questions if you get involved in an accident or get pulled over for some other reason. I got pulled over in my E30, a month after I switched it onto the collector plate, because I did not have a front plate. He then noticed the 1986 rear plate and told me I was running an expired plate ( he had not run it yet) he did not realize the car was old enough to be on a Collector plate and as soon as I showed him the registration he was cool and wanted to talk cars for a few minutes.
  8. Like I said the 2.3L engine in a 2002 isn't legal in any racing series, including vintage. The 1st thing you need to decide is if you are going to race you need to read the rule book and figure out what you can and CAN'T do. Then decide if the car you are planning on running stands a chance of being competitive. Bringing a knife to a gun fight isn't very smart. If it is just a toy you can do anything you want ($$$$) Just remember speed costs $$$$, How fast do you want to SPEND?
  9. Turbo, Probably a M10 but maybe a M42. Lots of people will jump in here and say M20. It is a great engine, it's just too heavy for my tastes in a 2002.
  10. If I had to start from scratch with nothing, just the engine would probably be in the $18k-20k range. This is for a carbureted, wet sump engine, if you want FI it's probably another $4-5k with the ITBs, ECU, fuel system and tuning. You would need to run 110 octane race fuel and the engine would need a rebuild every 30 hours or so. The rest of the driveline would be up to you. Close ratio gearboxes would be recommended, you can find them for anywhere between $4500-10,000 depending on what you get (BMW or aftermarket) Then you need to decide on a final drive ratio depending on where you are running.
  11. It all depends on what dyno you are using. Some are calibrated in Shetland Ponies and others in Clydesdales. I use one engine dyno and one chassis dyno and just do the best I can on them. They are the only ones I will compare numbers with, right or wrong. The only true comparison is either on the same dyno under the same conditions or side by side on the same track. The old track configuration at Portland used to be called the Asphalt Dyno. Road America and Road Atlanta are 2 other tracks where HP/Drag ratio are as important as handling and braking. We stopped racing a 2002 in GT3 back in 1982 when the 200SX Datsun showed up, we could race with them at Sears Point and Laguna Seca but at Road Atlanta at the runoffs they were 8-10mph faster on the straight, we couldn’t even DRAFT them! On the engine dyno I use, the best I have seen out of a 2013cc engine (89.5mm bore 80mm stroke) 13:1 with a 336 Schrick cam and lots of head work was 228 @8200 rpm. I have a 2313cc engine (92mm bore 87mm stroke) on the stand waiting to go into my car that made 249 @8100 but AVERAGED 161lb/ft of torque between 3500-8000 rpm. This was on 48 DCOEs with 42 mm chokes. I’m running 45mm ITBs and EFI now, it’s also dry sumped. It’s not legal for any racing class I know of in a 2002. This is my street/ track toy.
  12. It makes a huge difference how the car is set up. A rear wheel drive car you have the advantage of being able to exceed the available grip at the rear of the car by just adding enough power to spin the tires. With a front drive car you have to be able to do it by side loading the tires as much as you can and then using the throttle to transfer weight from the rear tires to the front. There is a reason left foot breaking is more popular in front wheel drive cars. The serious autocrossers set their cars up very stiff in the rear to help balance the turn in.
  13. Peter, if the blown gaskets are between the manifold and the head make sure the face of the manifold is perfectly flat (lay it on a piece of glass and check for gaps) the other possibility is they did not use the correct TURBO gaskets. They may have used standard gaskets and increased the diameter of the stud holes, I have seen this before. Your lack of boost might be just this leak. Byron
  14. Depending on the year 12v+ either comes from the ignition switch through the resister (mounted next to the coil) or straight through the resister wire that is part of the harness. The - side comes from the ignition points in the distributor. There should also be a wire to the - side of the coil that goes to the Tach (black wire I believe)
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