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gracer

Solex
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  1. Drive out pin # 4 far enough to remove part 3. Rotate the rest of the assembly 180 degrees and reassemble drive in pin # 4. It worked for me. G
  2. FYI you can heat the old copper gaskets to a cherry red and quench them in water. This will soften the copper, Torque to speck. I have 200+K miles on my street engine and many races on my race car with no leaks using this method.
  3. There were no US safety specs untill 1968, US and euro specs were the same.
  4. https://www.enginelabs.com/engine-tech/answers-on-the-second-ring-the-science-of-the-second-piston-ring/
  5. The part that also needs changing is the slider. They wear out just as fast as the ring. Did many back in the day. G
  6. The BW syncros are rebuildable the Porsche ones are not. Parts are not available for the P type. G
  7. Rudy Revak used to race a TII in ITA in the San Francisco region. G
  8. Outstanding job Steve. Congratulations!
  9. I had a guibo break on my race car and it bent the shift shaft. I had to have a transmission flown to Topeka. Most expensive.
  10. The fuel pressure should be 28 PSI. You may have rust buildup in the fuel tank. Check all the filters/screens again.
  11. Ouch!! I have hit the wall and it is not fun. hope Scott is OK.
  12. Excellent driving Steve! I know that the brakes on that Volvo are bigger than what it came with.
  13. I have known Mike for close to 50 years. He knows how to make a great race motor. The car in question has won best of show at Forest Grove concurs several times. IT is worth every asking penny .
  14. Love the flares. Hope to see you at the track for the SVRA event. G
  15. I will be at Pacific Raceways racing my 1600 in the SCCA Majors races Saturday and Sunday' G


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