Preyupy

How did you line up the rockers with the lobes and valves? If you have switched the rocker shafts the groves in the shafts where the C clips fit would be in the wrong location. You should be able to remove the oil pressure switch and run a wire up into the rocker shaft if it is not blocked. You should also take the plugs out and remove the valve cover. Have someone crank the engine and see if you have oil flow from the spray bar. Also check to see if there is oil coming out of the front end of the rocker shafts, that would sure tell you if you had one in wrong.

double post

The limitations of the stock Tii injection system are going to be your biggest problem in "making more power" because you also need to worry about drivability as well. You can always add more cam and compression and even a Turbo and mess with the injection pump so it will deliver the amount of fuel you need at wide open throttle. The problem is getting it to deliver the correct amount of fuel under all of the other driving conditions as well. It is a mechanical system that only looks at engine speed and throttle position. It has been designed to deliver a very specific amount of fuel based on these 2 conditions. The system has no idea how much air is ACTUALLY going into the engine it just knows that at 3000 rpm at 20% throttle opening it needs to deliver X # of CC's of fuel into the intake port. Change the engine speed and/or the throttle position and the amount of fuel changes based on a mechanical system inside the pump that has been calibrated to work with the otherwise stock Tii engine. Change the camshaft, exhaust system, or even the air cleaner so the engine flows more (or less) air at exactly the same engine speed and throttle opening and the fuel mixture will be WRONG. You can change the relationship between the throttle plate and the pump by changing the length of the connecting linkage you can even play with the "verboten screw" and change the entire mixture richer/leaner but unless you change the airflow characteristics of the engine exactly the same amount at ALL RPM AND THROTTLE SETTINGS there will be places where the mixture will be wrong. It might be off a little bit and it might also be off enough to damage the engine, you won't know until you try it. To change this you would need to change the shape of the cone inside the pump. You would need to be able to design and machine a very complicated shape and then remove and disassemble the pump to change the cone. Then when it does not work correctly you try it all over again. "I have this really cool painting, it's of a very beautiful girl, it's worth a lot of money. I really wish she was blond. Should I just paint over her hair?" It's your car, you can do anything you want to with it. Some of us have been playing with these things a very long time. There is virtually nothing you can do to a M10 that has not been done a hundred times before. Some of us also have a lot of broken parts that are from some of these "interesting ideas". You can choose to listen to people with experience, or become one yourself.

Simple answer, you can’t turbocharge an engine using the standard Tii injection pump. There isn’t a “Turbo” cone, it is a completely different injection pump. I would.never cut up a real Tii for a turbo project. If what you really want is a turbocharged 2002. Sell the Tii for lots of $$$$ and use the money to buy a good solid chassis standard 2002 or 1600 and build the car you want from scratch. Modern EFI and turbo technology makes this a wonderful combination.

I don't know of any other engine that has a manifold that will bolt to an M10 head.

There are a number of people making Turbo exhaust headers for the M10. Go on Ebay and you will find most of them. As far as Cast manifolds I don' t know of anyone still making them. Callaway and BAE used to make them back in the late 70's-early 80's for their turbo kits for the E21 320i. The factory Turbo manifold are very rare these days and very expensive if you find one.

When you are ready to take it apart the next time be prepared to drive the rocker shafts out with a big hammer. the problem is ARP gave you the torque number for maximum strength of the stud without thinking about the strength of the item that was being compressed. It also tends to unload the gasket slightly in the middle of the head right where the gasket is thinnest between the cylinders.

If you are using the ARP head studs DO NOT USE THE SPECIFIED TORQUE OF 90 ft/lbs! You will CRUSH the cylinder head around the rocker shafts! With the fine thread at the nut end of the stud 65 ft/lbs is more than enough to keep the head gasket (MLS) in place.

The stock alloys fit nicely over the E21 drums. I have not found any 13" wheel that has a clearance issue with the E21 drums. Some of the rear disc brake conversions have trouble with 13' wheels.

I'm sorry you are correct the M30/S38/M88 mains are larger than the M10/S14.

Mains and rod bearings are the same for all of the M10 and M30 engines (just more of them in the 6 cylinder engines) The Main bearings are also the same in the S38/M88 and S14 engines. The rod bearings however are different, The dimensions of the rod bearings are the same but they moved the index tabs.

My guess is a fault in the tach then. If it pegs with just the 12v power hooked to it on the right terminals ( there are only 3 and they are clearly marked) then it’s a gauge issue. North Hollywood Speedometer is my go-to place for BMW instrument repair if you can’t find a good one somewhere easy.

Find the tach wire at the coil (it should be black) is it hooked to the - terminal with the ign points? Remove it from the coil and check the tach, does it still peg? The engine does run when it does this?

Most of the major auction houses won't list a car with a reserve under $200k these days especially at the big auctions.

There is a very good chance that at some point the main throttle shaft has been twisted. It is very common for someone to tighten the nuts (or loosen a tight nut) on the end of the shaft while holding a wrench on the nut on the other end of the shaft. This usually causes a twist in the shaft and as such the 2 throttle plates are no longer inline with each other. If you know for a FACT that you do not have a leak in the manifold and that the engine is healthy (even compression and leak down tests between the cylinders) Close off the idle bypass screws if you have them in the carbs and check the airflow between the 2 throats in each carb, if they are off you need to "twist" the shafts back to where they are even.

Never seen markings like that. I suspect that someone in the last 45 years put them there. Possibly a “reground cam?” Not a BMW marking

New exhaust for the Turbo, the original 1974 system finally gave up. Of course something always goes wrong. Galled a nut on the Inconel stud, fortunately it didn’t break off inside the exh housing. A little time on the mill and it was out without damaging the threads.

It could also be a 245/10

Yes, if it does not have a removable bell housing AND it’s a dogleg 5 speed it is not a 265/5. Has the transmission tunnel been modified? You need to make a lot of room in a 2002 tunnel to fit a 265/5.

Just go to Napa and get 4 wires the correct length with the standard push on plug ends (they sell them individually in length from 10"-60") for about $4-$8 a wire

I'm with you, I would need to have a look at everything else 1st. I seriously doubt the rusty floorboards are the worst part of this car. If it does not have sentimental value I might start with a different chassis.

A leak down test might help narrow it down. I'm with Ken, look for oil in the catch can and on the spark plugs. If you don't see smoke on the over run I wouldn't suspect valve guide seals but that is one possibility. Oil never just vanishes it's going somewhere, and being "stroker" should not make any difference it's just the basics.

If the 215mm pressure plate is too small the flywheel is probably for a 228mm clutch. A picture would help. The bolt hole pattern and locations of the alignment dowels for the PP will tell us a lot.

Were are you located? I have 5-6 open diff units with good gears in them and you are welcome to come take your pick.

I used the automatic speedo cable when I installed the 245/5 in 1982 and it's still going strong. Probably about 180k miles.