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MurphinDC

Solex
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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Williamsburg, VA
  • Interests
    (Pre 71) Dec 70 Agave

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  1. Never mind....took everything off and with a little finagling of the canceling right and the metal bar coming out of the signal switch (bending 😃) I got it working.
  2. Hijacking this thread... Car came with an installed Momo steering wheel and the turn signal switch won't cancel. Took the wheel off and part #8 (above diagram) is installed but doesn't appear to be long enough to trip the small metal bar coming out of the signal switch. It was installed as the last piece per the diagram right before the steering wheel. Do I install it below part #7? Thanks as always for the help. Murph
  3. MurphinDC

    MurphinDC

  4. My bad, I meant to say I removed the ballast resistor and spliced (soldered) together both wires that lead to the ballast resistor and wrapped with electrical tape. Hope that helps. I believe I resolved the loss of the turn signal light issue as I had reversed the leads to the fuel sending unit as I'm trying to find out why a brand new unit is not working. Once I reversed the wires, I believe the issue has gone.
  5. So I wasn't able to substitute a set of points and condenser as the PA had cut the wires back and so I took the path of buying a Pertronix Flame Thrower coil (replacing the Bosch Red coil) and installing that and removing the original ballast resistor. Based on a drive tonight and letting it idle in my driveway for 25 minutes I would say that the issue has been solved. It did not bog down nor stall after driving it and letting it idle. Over heating of the electrical appears to be the issue. Fingers crossed that it stays that way. But with the new coil and removing the ballast resistor and after tying the ends of the ballast resister wire together I now notice that when I have the turn signal on and hit the brakes, sometimes the dash turn signal light goes out, but it still clicks. The ballast resistor wire is still attached to the new coil as well as the relay. I haven't dug into the details of the new issue. Did I just present another electrical issue?
  6. Have an existing Pertronix or clone in a 71 w/a 74Tii engine running a 32/36 weber in the car I recently purchased. I'm having issues with the car running and then shutting off after 20 minutes that is pointing to an electronic issue. I've checked through all the fuel and carburetor possibilities and it all looks good. I have landed on the the ignition side of the car as from what I'm reading the Pertronix is getting overheated because of the Bosch Red coil I'm using with a ballast resistor. The Bosch Red coil only has 1.8 ohms of resistance. I'm not able to install regular points and condenser as was suggested in another post to check as the PA cut all the wires that wold normally be there. So I'm trying to work with the Pertronix. As I said my research shows that the problem I have, could be caused by the coil (Bosch red having1.8 ohms of resistance and not the required 3.0 ohms) and using the original ballast resistor on the car. So I purchased a Pertronix Flame Thrower coil that has the full 3.0 ohms of resistance. So my question is what do I do with the existing ballast resistor? I believe I need to remove it and take the existing wire and feed it directly to the new coil. Is that correct? Brian
  7. Jimmy: It is using a Tii distributor. I will add your suggestion to the list to check. Mike Self: All lines are new and not cloth covered. The exception is the obvious plastic line. I did not install the plastic sleeve, but will go back and do that. I'm going to recheck all fuel lines again to make sure they are snug. The lines are either new or less than 5 years old. Mike A: Thanks. Filters are all brand new. Since installing the Malpissa regulator I haven't removed the existing one that is prior to the mechanical pump. Thanks everyone! I'll keep you posted on my progress.
  8. Son of Marty: Sorry not sure I follow you. Could be because of the 10 hours of time under the hood today...:-). Assuming your saying it's an electrical issue, e.g. points, condenser etc. I like the idea of replacing the Pertronix with points and condenser to see if that is the issue. I noticed the PA has a standard Bosch coil with the Pertronix and was wondering if that may be the issue as I read it needs 3.0 OHM to run on 4 cyl while the Bosch only puts out 1.8, I believe. Murph
  9. This issue surfaced with the old car...a 38 and that was why the PO decided to install the new 32/36 so It consistent with both. I assume that has to tell us something. John76: The carb is brand knew, installed last week by the PO so I assume everything is clean and not fouled. East coast time so I will check for a drip, screen and plugs. Have to assume the float is set correctly but guess I will check that as well. Both plugs on the manifold are plugged. I assume this is correct? Jimmy: I will check the plugs in the AM. Two of the OLD plugs were black. My assumption is that it is running rich. "Whats between the pressure regulator and the carb, besides rubber hose?" Nothing. "And with the pressure regulator, keep in mind you want less than 3psi, preferably no more than 2." Fiddled with the pressure regulator I think too much so I need to run a check of the pressure with a dial in order to reset the Malpassi.
  10. Spoke to soon as it looks to be electronic, see photo. IMG_0654.HEIC
  11. Manual Choke. IMG_0649.HEIC IMG_0650.HEIC IMG_0651.HEIC IMG_0653.HEIC
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