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Preyupy

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Everything posted by Preyupy

  1. Preyupy
    About 3 bars of boost would be the place to start. You might need either to start it cold.
  2. Preyupy
    This is the most likely possibility There is no modifying needed with the 1.8l pistons. They are just what you need if you have a 2L block and a 1600 crankshaft. This WOULD be an 1800cc engine You could use the standard 2L pistons with the 1600cc crankshaft and you would have a 1800cc engine with a compression ratio of about 5.7:1
  3. Preyupy
    If they used pistons out of the later 1.8l engine it would be easy. The only difference between the 1.8 and 2.0 pistons is the location of the wrist pin, both engines used the same connecting rods. They would just need to move the pin down 4.5mm to compensate for the shorter stroke.
  4. Preyupy
    The 1600cc engines were a 84mm bore and a 71mm stroke The early 1800cc engines were 84mm bore and 80mm stroke Then BMW started making the 2 liter with a 89mm bore and the 80mm stroke, they had to change the block castings to accept the larger bore. They then used the same block with the 89mm bore and used the shorter 71mm stroke to make the later version of the 1800cc engine. They made 6 bolt crankshafts in both the 71mm and 80mm strokes. Have you checked to make sure you have a 1973 2 liter block? It is possible it is the small bore 1600 block (however by 1973 even the 1600/1800 cranks were 8 bolt) It is also possible this was Gene Wilder's car at some point. ( Tongue-in-cheek Young Frankenstein reverence)
  5. Preyupy
    OMG a 48 year old engine block that doesn't have it's original crankshaft!!! I'm shocked!! The easiest fix is to have the flywheel machined and fitted with either the 228mm or 215mm clutch disc and pressure plate. As you can guess it is critically important to get it centered and get the proper step machined into the flywheel no matter what one you choose. Someone could have built a short stroke 1800cc engine using the 1600 stroke crank and the 2L bore and kept the 2L head as well. I'm guessing the last person to have that engine apart used what ever pieces were under the workbench and didn't spend any more $$$ than absolutely necessary. Until you take it apart and measure it you will never know.
  6. Preyupy
    I was going to say your machine shop gave you back the wrong engine.
  7. Preyupy
    For only the 3rd time in 31 years I WON’T be at Monterey this year.
  8. Preyupy
    Looks like they "fat fingered" about 4 extra 0's
  9. Preyupy
    If you have a car that needs the seats I don't know where else you will find them. He obviously knows what he has and what a restored car is worth. That is a serious amount of money. It will be interesting to watch (glad I'm not in need)
  10. Preyupy
    Have you checked the final drive ratio? That might be about the right error is someone put a 3.9:1 diff in a car that came with a 3.64:1 from the factory.
  11. Preyupy
    It really depends on what condition the head was in BEFORE the damage. You should be able to find a good serviceable head for $250-300 which is probably what you will pay to have someone repair this one. Then both heads would need to be surfaced, valve job, possibly valve guides etc. If you had a bunch of $$ tied up in port work or even line boring for a bigger camshaft it might make sense to try and repair this head. But for a stock, unmodified, used cylinder head I would probably replace it.
  12. Preyupy
    I finally found a good one. It has obviously taken a hit from a guibo that let go at some point. It is straight and the nick in the shaft does not get into the shaft seal
  13. Preyupy
    I’ll try to get to the shop on Sunday and see if I can find a good shift rod.
  14. Preyupy
    Where are you located? Before you scrap a perfectly good 245/5 just to get a good shift rod I probably have a few out of damaged boxes ( holding can be good sometime). I’m out of the shop until Monday but could look then.
  15. Preyupy
    You didn't say if it is an over drive box or a Dog Leg Close ratio box. If it is an overdrive box then everything inside the box is interchangeable with your M10 245/5
  16. Preyupy
    I’ve never rebuilt one. They were always so cheap it didn’t make sense. It might be time to learn. BMW used to sell the bearing/seals/shaft assembly and you just had to make some tooling so you can press it all apart and back together. As long as the housing is in good shape
  17. Preyupy
    Try Joe Gjerstad at Old School Garage in Port Orchard
  18. Preyupy
    Post a picture of the transmission looking directly into the bell housing at the input shaft. We can tell what you have from there.
  19. Preyupy
    If one end has a shorter amount of threads, that is the end that threads into the manifold. If they are equal it does not make a difference.
  20. Preyupy
    Try calling Euroglass in Redmond 425-883-2989
  21. Preyupy
    8500 is a lot! I don’t know what cam, valves, and carburetors you are running but to get a 2 liter M10 to actually make power past 8000 rpm is a good trick. Did you have it on a dyno? I’ve seen a lot of them that people have said they normally run past 8500 and when we actually run them on a dyno we find they are all done making power at 7800-8000 and the last 500 rpm is just noise and abuse. I have also found that an engine with a 7500 rpm rev limit has a 25-30% longer life between rebuilds than an 8000 rpm engine.
  22. Preyupy
    I have a number of knife edged cranks out there in race engines that have more than 100 racing hours on them without problems. I would suspect a bearing problem (maybe even a bit of debris in the oil galley, or crank that finally came loose). With as blue as the big end of the rod looks and the completely melted bearing I am just about positive it was not a bolt or rod cap failure that started it all. If it was a balance or vibration issue you should see significant wear on the main bearings and not usually all the way around the bearing. 944 Porsche engines have been notorious for knocking the #2 rod bearings even on stock engines if run at track days since they were new.
  23. Preyupy
    This was not even what I would call a Tribute car. The guy that built it was a long time PNW 2002 guy and he built it to be fast and it was. He just happened to put the flairs and stripes on it because he liked them. He had Turbo flairs and spoiler on a '69 '02 back in 1975. I don't know who has had the car for the last few years as Max passed away a couple of years ago. I'm guessing they did not take very good care of it, It was always pristine when Max had it.
  24. Preyupy
    The knife edge crank is also not responsible. The reduction in weight "can" amplify some harmonics inside the engine but that does not usually show up in race engines because they never "sit" at one RPM where the vibrations can multiply. Think about how quickly the engine goes through 3000-6000 rpm in any gear and how many seconds it spends at any one speed. Now think about driving 200 miles at 70mph (about 4000 rpm) never changing speed. If the harmonic just happens to be at 4000 you would be in trouble. I have been knife edging cranks and removing close to 9.5lbs on race engines for many years. I would never do it on a street car.
  25. Preyupy
    The failure was the rod bearing. The bearing basically welded itself to the crank and the rotating crank tried to twist the big end of the rod, with the piston still in the bore something had to give (the rod). I know you said there was still oil pressure when you looked but have you ever noticed oil pressure drop under hard breaking (into Turn 3a or 3b) or under long cornering to the left (Turn 2 or 8)? The damage quite possibly could have happened at lower engine speeds and/or when you had more pressing things to pay attention to than the oil pressure gauge. What oil pan are you running? Are you running an Accusump?
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