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Preyupy

Turbo
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Everything posted by Preyupy

  1. The racers back in the middle '60's used the long stroke 1800 (1600 bore and 2liter stroke) engines bored to 89mm to run in the Under 2 liter class in sports cars. It can be done but I recommend you have the block sonic checked to make sure the cylinder walls are thick enough to get away with it. What is the inspection process for your cars that the engine serial number is checked to match the actual car? Is it OK to swap a different engine (from the same year and model)? How knowledgeable are they about the cars? Are they just looking at the VIN on the block or would they also look a the date stamps cast into the block? Would they know the difference between a 118 head (1600/1800) and a 121/E12/E21 head from a 2 liter or even a later 1.8 head?
  2. The other option is to check those same 2 holes. If they are 8mm it is for an M10. 10 MM and with wider spacing is M20
  3. Have you tried to drain the oil? After sitting for 25 years outside I suspect that the oil that was in the pan has turned into Jello. The pump isn't working because it can't suck that gunk through the pickup. If the pump is bad, sprocket came off etc it happened when it was running last and most likely trashed the bearings at that time and that is why it got parked in the 1st place.
  4. Rudy’s Turbo was the only one I had ever even sat in before I finally finished the restoration on mine.
  5. We sure had a good time! I met a lot of good BMW friends on that trip. It’s been a long time Gordon.
  6. I use a measuring tool I made out of a piece of 5” clear plastic bar. I cut a recess into one side deep enough to clear the top of the dome and 90mm diameter ( or bigger depending on your bore) Drill a small hole through to the top as close to the edge of the bore as you can. Put it on a flat surface ( a small bit of grease will help seal it) and fill it. With that measurement you now know the volume of the tool. Put a small amount of grease around the top of the piston to seal it so you don’t get any leakage past the rings. Now with the piston at TDC put the tool over the bore ( again with a little grease to seal it ) either have someone hold the tool steady or make a clamp that holds it in place. Now fill the tool again. Subtract this number from the total volume you got before and you have the piston dome volume.
  7. I installed the sender without the adaptor just like this 47 years ago and it’s still working.
  8. It is possible someone has significantly OVER TORQUED the head bolts at some point and crushed the head around the rocker shafts. If this engine had ARP head studs and they were torqued to the ARP spec this would not surprise me at all.
  9. Any place that the 2 pieces make contact need to be bare metal. If you don't, over time the paint will migrate and the joint will loosen unless you check the bolt torque on a regular basis.
  10. And don't order pistons until you know what size you need and which head you will plan on using (if you are going with the low compression ratio flat top pistons it does not matter) the E12 and 121 heads use different piston dome designs.
  11. Ken, I got a bunch of them from IMC I just ordered 11 13 1 727 974 Their number is 215 06012 674
  12. Also stay away from the "CORK" gaskets. The composite gaskets don't compress at the bolt holes and you get a much better seal across the gasket.
  13. If the suction valve is stuck this is your problem. Just be really careful putting the pump head in the ultrasonic tank. They do a great job cleaning but the clearances in the pump are so tight if you get any corrosion on the bores or pistons you can have a huge problem. Clean it but get it out and make sure there is no water left in it and get it oiled ASAP.
  14. I missed coming down this year. Hopefully I’ll see you in September.
  15. Finally had a weekend off from racing and dug the Turbo out of the garage for a drive. A beautiful day but too much traffic to have much fun. Probably saw 35-40 modern BMWs on the road and not one person even turned their head to look. Did get a headlight flash and a thumbs up from a guy in a Triumph STAG! I of course flashed and waved back, then thought about following him home ( just to make sure he made it ok).
  16. You said that the injector opens at 425psi but you didn’t say how you tested it? If you swapped the injectors and #1 is still a problem I suspect the pump is not delivering the same amount of fuel to #1 as it is to the other cylinders. The #1 piston in the pump may be sticking, the #1 inlet valve in the pump might be sticking ( open OR closed!). Does it idle like there is a dead cylinder but then run ok under load? If so go back and check for a vacuum leak as previously recommended. If it is dead under load as well again try new plugs and wires. Look carefully at the cap, make sure the contacts are good and there are no cracks.
  17. My car (an earlier chassis than this one) came with Trapezoid mirrors. It also had the Right side door mirror as well (I suspect this is because of the LHD car being sold in England at the time)
  18. Original Minilites (12/74 manufacture dates) with 205/60/13's. No clearance issues here.
  19. England only as far as I know. Paperwork shows it was originally sold in England There were only 43 turbos originally sold in England, from what I understand. Mine was one as well.
  20. I remember having a look at this car at Monterey in 2016. If I remember correctly the owner was local (Monterey, Carmel area) It was a nice car, it looks like it has been cleaned up some. I can't say I'm a big fan of the new radio but you can always put the Blaupunkt back in it. It says it is being sold by a trust so there is the possibility that it is not just a quick turn around after being purchased last year. Something may have happened.
  21. If you are just looking at the tensile strength of the threaded fastener you are correct. You must also consider the material you are clamping as well. If you don't stretch the bolt but you do deform the wheel you have gone too far. The lug nuts (bolts) only need to be tight enough to hold the wheel firmly to the hub and NOT back off! Any more than that is un-necessary. I have used 65-70 ft/lbs on all 4 and 5 lug BMW wheels, both steel and alloy, for over 45 years and have never had one come loose (even on race cars)
  22. The stock system runs the same line pressure front and rear ( it is a Non Stepped dual master cylinder) the actual braking force is balanced by the caliper piston/rear wheel cylinder sizes. So if you are going to change to a disc brake in the rear picking the piston size is going to be the hard part if you don’t want to run some kind of proportioning valve. If you are going to try and run without the booster and put the master cylinder in the pedal box there really isn’t enough room for 2 cylinders and a balance bar so your best bet is a single dual stage master and a proportioning valve.
  23. Use the Limited slip compatible oils just don't add the "additive" that is often used in the domestic Limited Slip units.
  24. Any good Hypoid gear oil will do. I like the Redline 75/140 Shockproof or Swepco 210 80/140 for our race cars. Do not use any "limited slip" additive (common in most domestic limited slip axles) The thicker oils leave a better coating on the gears and bearings which is important on cars that don't get used on a regular basis. This helps prevent moisture from causing a problem.
  25. The Turbo radiators are wider (on the left side) but the same thickness and height as the standard radiator. I suspect that in the process of mounting the larger radiator they did not attach it correctly to the core support. They would have had to modify the core support to make it fit (the opening is wider and the mounts on the left side are obviously moved as well) If this car has had a 5 speed transmission fitted the rear trans mount might not be in the right location like Dlacey said.
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