Preyupy

The side "radiator" vents are just for the oil cooler. The water radiators are in the nose. These cars have a very wide sill that is also very high, you don't "get in the car" you put it on like a shoe that is 3 sizes too small. The original engines were 2 liter engines made from 1800ti engines. They used 118 heads and they over bored the cylinders by 5mm to make them 2000cc. The cars were not put into production primarily because of cost. Frank Nickols (the father of Elva) farmed the design and construction of the body to Fiore/Fissore the communication between them was not very good and the conversion from British Pounds to Italian Lire and weight in LBS to Kilograms got all messed up. The car weighed 50% more than they thought and the bodies cost more than they were hoping to SELL the cars for. Underneath it is basically a Elva Mark 7s sports car with a roof. The BMW powered Mk7s weighed just under 1100lbs and the GT160 wound up at about 1450 LBS with the same engine, tires and brakes! Imagine adding 50% to the weight of your car without changing anything else! They are beautiful, unique and good fun if you are 5'5" tall but if you want a fun vintage race car with a M10 in it find a Mk7s.

With low compression you are going to want a fair amount of advance off boost. You are going to find much better throttle response and lower "boost lag time" if you are up around 32-35 deg of advance. You can also bring it all in very early (2500-3000rpm) and you might even start at 15+ deg at 1000rpm. Then you can just program a retard based on boost X number of degrees of retard per psi of boost. I would start at 1.5deg/psi which should be very safe and you can fine tune from there.

It is the proper ratio with limited slip to have come from a turbo. There is also the possibility it was a special order on a European Tii/Ti. In the years before the OD 5 speeds were available this was the way to go if you spent most of your tim on the freeway. If you are running a 3.9:1 final drive with the 245/5 overdrive transmission you have an effective 3.15:1 final drive in 5th gear versus this 3.36:1 with the 1:1 top gear in either the standard 4 speed or the CR 235/5 5 speed that was available in the 2002’s in the day.

I have installed them dry and with “copper coat” I have never separated them and have never had a problem with sealing. The specified thickness is the compressed thickness. I even had them make a special M30 gasket fo a block and head combination on a old race engine that was over 0.120” thick. They are great to work with.

Look at the 2 large openings on the exhaust side of the #4 cylinder on the M10 gasket. the majority of the water comes into the head there and passes all the way to the front intake side where it comes out. The primary water flow on the S14 is from the larger holes on the intake side and flows across the head and exits into an external manifold that runs down the exhaust side of the engine (the water comes out between the exhaust ports. Using the S14 gasket design the water comes into the head on the intake side and the easiest flow is straight up the intake side to the outlet at the front of the head. We were not seeing really high temperatures measured in the water outlet housing but we kept blowing water out of the radiator because of over pressure. The stagnant water around the exhaust ports was boiling and blowing water out of a 20psi radiator cap. The smaller holes in the gasket are to make sure there isn't any air trapped under the gasket, they are basically steam holes and not a major part of the water flow path.

The only thing you need to be careful of with a MLS gasket is the surface finish on the block and head. The surface needs to be glass smooth as the gasket will not “fill in” small machining marks or scratches. I have been using Cometic MLS gaskets for years on M10 & M30 engines with great success. I found a problem running the stock S14 head gaskets with a M10 cylinder head. The water flow through the head is different with the S14 head and the passageways through the gasket are different. I found that the water was not being run down the exhaust side of the head as effectively and under full load was overheating. You can buy the M10 version of the MLS gasket with the correct bore for your S14 block and this cured our problems. Lay a S14 gasket on top of a M10 gasket and ignore the bore difference but look at the difference in the water passages. If you are running ARP head studs don’t use the 90ft/lb torque spec that comes from ARP! You will crush the head around the rocker shafts and actually loose clamping force between the cylinders. Remember you have less than 7mm between bores so the gasket isn’t as strong and wants to move, the MLS gaskets are much stronger here and the major reason I use them.

If you are talking about where the cable connects to the speedometer, it should be barely finger tight. If someone grabbed it with a pair of pliers and cranked it down you will need to do the same thing to get it off. There isn't much room back there and be careful you don't knock a wire loose somewhere.

If that is an original exhaust manifold it has been modified with a "waste gate" so I'm guessing that is just one part you are going to need to find if you are going to "restore" the car. I also wonder if that is even the original engine (engine number should match VIN) that is not a correct valve cover so I wonder about everything under it as well. If a previous owner was playing with waste gates and modified boost plumbing they may have blown up the original engine and just put a standard M10 with all of the Injection and turbo parts bolted on. All of these questions are part of deciding how good of a deal £24k is. If you are buying it for yourself it is worth what ever you are willing to spend on it. If you are looking for resale value then "restoring" it to ORIGINAL is the way to go. You don't get bonus points for modifications no matter how well they are done. When you try and sell it you will find people will pick it apart and notice every single detail that is not correct, not only will they tell you about it they will shout it as loud and as often as they can. £24k is a reasonable price to pay for a real turbo that needs to be restored. Depending on how you go about it (what are your skills? how much can you do yourself? or are do you just drop it off at a shop and have it done?) and how many of the unique turbo parts do you need to find the cost can be easily £40-100k on top of the purchase price. If you have £125k and a couple of years time you could wind up with a £170k car when you are all done.

By those pictures it looks like you might have found a real car. It also looks like it has been modified over the years and probably wrecked (snorkel in the nose means it has been hit hard enough that someone has replaced the nose at some point). Looks like a restoration project if you can buy it right, good luck.

After checking the VIN there are a lot of unique turbo parts that you will need to look for. A big red flag is someone telling you the original “wastegate” is missing, they never had one! Do your homework BEFORE you give them any money!

There are problems with timing chain tensioner travel (it can only take up so much slack), cam timing (use an adjustable gear), Piston to valve clearance etc when the head gets too thin. The factory "min thickness" is not a hard stop but there are other things you have to deal with when they get that thin.

If you are worried about "minimum thickness" using a cutter ring head gasket means that the next time you remove the head it is done. That is just old technology and not necessary today. If you are worried about your compression and running a stock non cutter ring gasket use a MLS one. Just my $.02

I have had good luck over the years using non MLS gaskets ( with and without cutter rings) on race engines between 12-13.5:1. With stock head bolts I have used 70 ft/lbs ( with oil on the threads and under the head of the bolt) I usually start at 25 ft/lbs then 3 more steps to get to 70. After a few heat cycles retorque to 70 without backing them off. if you are running ARP head studs DO NOT US THE TORQUE SPEC THEY PUT IN THE INSTRUCTIONS!!!! You will CRUSH THE HEAD AROUND THE ROCKER SHAFTS!

What compression are you running? I am not a fan of the “cutter ring” gaskets. Yes they do offer a bit more resistance to compression deformation of the flame ring but they also require that you surface the head EVERY TIME you remove it to give fresh aluminum for the gasket to cut into. If you are running under 11.5:1 compression at standard gasket is more than capable of the job. If you need more than that a MLS gasket would be my choice. if they are old stock gaskets I would worry about the gasket getting hard and not sealing the water and oil passageways.

You need to go back to your distributor machine and try this again. With the distributor turning clockwise you are showing 18 degrees of advance. If the distributor is turning counter-clockwise this shows that you have 18 deg of RETARD. Distributors that use weights MECHANICALLY change the relationship between the drive gear and the points to alter the timing in 1 direction of rotation it advances and in the other direction it retards. The 123 distributor will work in both directions (they need a different gear) because there is no MECHANICAL advance it is all done electronically and the system has no idea which way it is turning it just triggers the spark earlier or later based on RPM

It is just a high pressure relief valve (usually only opens on a cold start if the engine gets reved) It is not needed

I have been using CP pistons for years and they will make anything you want. You just need to tell them what dome you want, what bore you want, and what con rod you are using. They will make you 1 if you want. I have not had custom pistons built by anyone other than CP and JE for over 30 years so I have no idea what the process is like with other companies.

If they are 10mm my guess would be either from the starter bolts (through the block and bell housing) or driveline bolts (through the Guibo) they are about the only 10mm bolts that I have seen that were self locking. If the HEX is 10mm (with nothing to compare it to we can't tell exactly what size they are, a lot of people refer to fastener size based on the size of the wrench instead of the size of the thread) Some people use them for valve cover nuts and or for the 12V+ wire connection at the back of the alternator.

If it is stuck just getting it to turn over is not going to save you from rebuilding it. Even IF you can get it to turn over trying to start it or even spin it over to make some oil pressure (if it will) will do more harm than good. The only reason to try to get it to turn over is so that you might stand a chance of getting the pistons out of the block with less effort once you take the engine apart.

Wish I could make it. Have a great time.

If it's not dripping brake fluid on the floor then it's most likely the master cylinder.

This is assuming you have a 1971 Nevada 2002 and not a 1600. 2002's had hydraulic clutches and 1600's had a strictly mechanical system. The pedal goes down and returns on it's own when you lift your foot? I'm guessing Mike is right and the master cylinder and/or the slave is shot.

What valve springs are you running? The stock/replacement rockers are barely good enough for a stock engine (stock cam, stock valve springs AND stock REDLINE!!) Any valve float at all and you risk braking a rocker. If you were part way through an endurance race the heat build up in the valve springs could have easily dropped 30-40lbs from the spring rate. If you were close to float with cold springs this could have caused the problem. The reasonable $$$ option are the IE race rockers for a cam that mild and <7500 rpm revlimit.

Exactly my thought. The correct color is whatever was in the gun on the day it was built.

My air box was in great shape when I got it so I just polished it up and had it scanned. I have paint but I don't have a formula based on anything other than a Job number from our local paint supply. I'm sure mine was never painted before I got it. It would not surprise me if there are different colors throughout the run. Their were different shades on the airboxes used in other cars over the years