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About rstclark

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  1. Yes this was mailed Monday Should take about 5 days
  2. Reminds me of the old commercial where the customer asks the mechanic What does the Thwap Thwap Thwap sound like to you ? To which he responds " Sounds like two weeks in Waikiki to me" Glad you found the problem before it got much worse
  3. PS you can actually set the static at zero and let the distributor do all the work. Get a good smooth idle with a low base static advance, ie 2 degrees and play with this You will be really safe with a total of not more than 36 maybe 38 degrees advance. With a stock motor compression of most likely 8.3:1 you won't get pinging . BTW in my car with higher compression I use 91 octane California blend so-called gas and this works Your set up will be different so keep tweeking things If you have a usb type 123 distributor , you can set two curves and try a second test set up against the base curve until you are satisfied by the laptop or the butt dyno that you have a really good tune Have fun You're definitely on the right track
  4. TodB Remember that a lean mixture. Like Idle and cruise takes longer to burn so the spark has to happen earlier- more advance. People complain about a stumble at mid range. With a vacuum curve the motor is ready to run when you accelerate so it’s really beneficial I think you will be happy with the 123 tune with the vacuum curve
  5. @Cr4tic jetting formula mains. 135 Air. 180 Idle 50 Etube F66 this is at sea level good starting point for a 38/38
  6. I’ll look up the jet settings when I get home
  7. OKAY Try this Mechanical 700 6 1500 18 2000 23 2500 28 4000 34 6000 32 --- MAP 0kp 0 29kp 0 30kp 10 50 kp 10 60kp 2 75kp 0 100kp 0 200kp 0 Take the vacuum off the manifold under the carb rather than from the carb. Just be sure the vacuum is from under the carb throttle plate Static can be set low like 2-4 degrees because the mechanical and map kick in early Find a good idle and go from there. BTW I have an electric choke 38/38 (jetted down) on a 9.5 :1 compression motor with a 284 cam etc. I really like the 38/38 for good low end torque and great colds and idle. So I wouldn't talk you out of a 38/38 but it well worth a try of a Sync Link especially if your 32/36 is running well Good luck with this project. Good luck with your project
  8. Just running mechanical advance is often misunderstood as high performance, which it is if all you do is drag race at full throttle when there is no vacuum. But that's not how we drive our cars - most of the time. For overall driving there is real value in having vacuum advance that comes in at idle and cruise speeds.I can send you a mechanical curve with MAP settings that I can guarantee you will be happy with. It's on my laptop so I'll look it up and forward it to you in a subsequent post.
  9. + 1 with VicLeonardo1 It's well worth a try with a sync-link on your 32/36 Especially for a stock motor A 38/38 is intended for a 6 cylinder It's a lot of carburetor. Even on a modified motor a 38/38 needs to be jetted leaner Regarding 42 degrees of total advance. that's way too much. If you have a 123 tune, put in the Tii curve with a little vacuum advance and max the total advance at 36 degrees or less around 3500 rpm. Spend some time reading the lengthy threads on 123's by searching before you burn up your motor
  10. I’ll pack them up and send on Monday
  11. Okay thats fine I'll use a small Priority Mail box to protect it. I can't get an estimate to Canada with the online calculator but it looks like maybe $10 If it more I'll take care of it so $35 total PayPal is [email protected] Rob Clark 760-710-1189 cell/text
  12. Good question. Shipping to Canada can be a pain I believe the best method is FEDX ground. They hand off to Canada post and can be tracked. I'm guessing $15 to $20. At the most
  13. How's $25 sound ? I get some pictures for you if you like
  14. Adams Autosport has very nice reproductions if you want new I have a pair of driver quality and can send photos if you like
  15. Have you checked to see if the cold start valve is spraying any gas on a hot start up ? Thats the typical problem when the cold start box fails and sprays gas at every start hot or cold

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