Preyupy

I have found that the later blocks have a much more consistent cylinder wall thickness. If I am going to try and bore a block to 92mm or larger I always have them sonic inspected to make sure there is enough wall thickness. The early blocks have shown to have some core shift in the castings and they can get a bit thin in places if you are not careful. At anything under 91mm I would still choose the later block just because of the weight (for race engines). If you are cracking a block something else is wrong.

The oil pressure relief happens AFTER the oil filter/oil cooler adaptor as well as the oil pressure sensor. There is no chance your adaptor is causing you any trouble. What weight oil are you running? 100+psi on a cold engine is not out of the ordinary. There is the possibility that you have a restriction in the bypass tube that runs down the front of the block from the oil galley to the pressure relief valve in the pump. The spray bar is not a direct connection to the oil galley, the camshaft has slots machined in the center journal that opens and closes the oil passage way as the cam turns. The oil flow from the spray bar pulses and flow is restricted. There is also the possibility that the banjo bolt may have been over tightened at some point and the tube is crushed limiting the oil flow.

Speed costs $$$$$ How fast do you want to spend?

If you have not personally confirmed your timing marks are correct (OT mark on flywheel lines up with the flat edge in the bell housing window WHEN the #1 & #4 pistons are at TOP DEAD CENTER) you are making assumptions you should not be making. Also check the timing mark on the camshaft as well. If you are making maximum TORQUE at 45 deg BTDC with a M10 something major is wrong. I have spent the last 40+ years building M10 & M30 street and racing engines. Everything from stock 1600s to 390hp 3.5l Group2 CSL race engines ( with 2002 TURBO engines as well). NOTHING has ever wanted more than 38 deg ( and that was a 6.9:1 compression ratio stock 2002 TURBO OFF BOOST!) Running retarded will raise temperatures and running too much advance will cause detonation, blown head gaskets and burned pistons.

Have you actually checked your timing with a light? I have NEVER seen a M10 engine that wanted 45 deg of advance! I know your 123 app says 45 deg but you need to confirm that the distributor is installed so that 0 degree is REALLY 0 deg. Lock it at 25 deg and put a timing light on it and you should see the ball on the flywheel .

Just a few suggestions: If you are not running a heater core, running the hose open just recycles the hot water from the back of the head into the water pump and it never goes through the radiator. If the heater core was there with the valve open the water would go through the heater ( its just a radiator inside the car) and if you turn off the heater it shuts the valve so no water is coming out of the head. Don't use a S14 head gasket, the water passages/water flow through a S14 head is different than a M10 head even if the blocks have the same passage ways. The water flow path in a M10 head has the majority of the water coming out of the block at the back of the engine on the exhaust side and flowing forward through the head past the exhaust ports and exiting at the front of the engine on the intake side. The water flow through a S14 head has the water coming up into the head on the intake side and across the head where the water leaves from ports in-between the exhaust ports and into a manifold that runs externally along the side of the head. If you use the S14 gasket the water is allowed into the head on the intake side and then just runs forward and out of the head. There is greatly reduced water flow around the exhaust ports and combustion chambers (the hottest spots in the head). If you are going to run a MLS head gasket the block and head surfaces MUST BE MIRROR SMOOTH!! If you can run your finger over the surface and feel anything it is too rough for the metal gasket to seal. Even Copper seal isn't enough to keep it sealed. If there is white smoke and fluid in the booster I would start there. Are you loosing water?

My guess is it is not a problem with the "Button" it is a problem with the wire running from the button to the contact in the hub or the contact between the hub and the ring in the steering column. I have never looked at a Grant hub so I don't know how the contact is held in place. The 2002 should have a spring loaded pin coming out of the hub that rides on a ring in the column. If the spring is bad and the pin is not being held in contact with the ring the horn will not work. The same thing happens when the pin is loose in the hub. There are a lot of cars out there that have been converted to the E21 style of horn contact (because they have been easier to find since they stopped building 2002's 46 years ago) this has the ring mounted to the hub and the contact pin in the steering column. It's a really simple system, should not be hard to figure out.

I have built a couple of original 1800TiSA engines over the last few years that still had the gear type oil pumps. I had to shorten the oil pump chains because I could not find the short ones any longer.

That is the chain for the early "gear" style pumps that have not been used since around 1971-72. I know the listing says it is for all of the M10 engines but the listing is WRONG

Loosen all of the bolts and then try and turn the pump. Very lightly start tightening the bolts in a cross pattern and try turning it again. There are no alignment dowel pins so a very slight misalignment on the bolts will bind the pump. It might take a few tries but you can get it to turn freely. They are a 6mm bolt into Aluminum threads, be careful.

The physical dimensions of the 245/10 are exactly the same as the 245/5 OD box. The only modifications you would need to do is make a bit of room for the clutch slave cylinder and relocate the rear transmission mount (unless you use the special one I have seen that attaches to the stock 4 speed mounts) but you would need to do this for the 235/5 as well. The 245/10 is a stronger box than the 235/5 and much less expensive to work on when they need synchros. I just had 3 of each apart within the last 2 months.

It does help if you have a working knowledge of BMW/Getrag gearboxes but to do this you don't need to disassemble any of the gear clusters, it's mostly about getting the input shaft and front counter shaft bearings out of the housing as you pull the housing off. Don't forget to remove the shift detent plunger and spring BEFORE you try and remove the bell housing.

You can take the bell housing section from a M10 245/5 OD box and swap it with the bell housing on this box and have a 245/10. You just need to make sure you shim the bearings correctly but it is quite an easy swap. This gearbox is called a 245/11 because it is for the M20/ M42 engines. Yes this would be a great gearbox if you are putting a M42 in your 2002. Close ratio as well as a mechanical drive for the speedo.

I have seen many DCOE carburetors with cracked bodies because someone did not understand the loads put into the mounting ears when they are un-supported when you use the soft mounts. The worst thing I have seen about solid mounting them on 4 cylinder engines is in the old days of BRASS floats we saw a slight increase in the failure rate of the floats. In 40 years (probably about 250K miles) of running DCOEs on my car I have replaced 2 brass floats. Depending on the type of throttle linkage you are using, soft mounts make it very hard to keep them in Sync.

I agree with Toby. Usually the centrifugal advance is not stable around 1000 rpm and a 2-4 degree difference can make a 200-300 rpm change in idle. Put a timing light on it and see where you are at idle then rev it up a little and watch how quickly the idle speed settles down while you watch what the timing is doing.

Yes the S14 is a Siamese style block, mostly because of the 93+mm bore on a 100mm bore spacing. With less than 7mm between the 2 cylinders if they left room for water there would be no wall thickness left. The primary difference is the water flow path through the heads.

I put a dab of sealant right at the joining point of the front timing covers and the block/head. I put the head on and torque it to 20-25 ft/lbs then install the chain and gear on the cam and install the upper timing cover. Make sure it lines up with the top of the head flush and tighten the 6 bolts holding it to the head. Then install the 2 bolts into the lower cover and just snug them down lightly. Not torque the head to full spec and then do a final tighten on the 2 bolts into the lower timing cover. I have never had an oil leak here with a MLS gasket.

If you are going to try an put it on a 2002 you will need to deal with the horn contact. The 2002 wheels have a single spring loaded contact that rides on a ring contact on the steering column. The E21 has the ring mounted on the wheel (look at the last picture) and the single contact is on the column. €400 is about right if it is in great shape but it’s not a “bolt on” for a 2002.

What year is your car? What oil are you running in the transmission? The 4 speeds were not designed for the lightweight oils that we use in the later gearboxes. If you only hear the noise at idle, in neutral, with the clutch engaged (foot NOT on the pedal) and the engine and trans at operating temperature you are probably just hearing the back lash of all the gears inside the transmission and it is completely normal. If you think about what is going on inside the transmission in neutral, every gear is spinning , the only thing not moving is the main shaft but all of the gears are spinning on it. If it makes noise when you are in gear and moving and it changes depending on which gear you are in and/or if you are on or off the throttle then you probably have a bearing starting to go.

You need part number 07 11 9 906 393

I have come across the engine block from 2761679 that was in a repair shop in the Seattle area. I have no idea how long it has been out of the car or even if the car still exists. It is still standard bore 89.0MM If the car still exists I would be more than happy to reunite them. It is a long block, with Crank, Pistons, Rods, Tii Front timing cover, oil pan (and I assume oil pump) No head, flywheel, crank pulleys or injection pump. I have not removed the pan and inspected the crank, the bores look like the will probably clean up at .5mm overbore. Otherwise I'll just toss it in my spares collection and use it for a future engine project.

Transmissions in race cars are "consumable" items. They all wear out at some point. Their interface with the organic component can make a significant difference on their life expectancy. Street car based transmissions can have issues with the heat that comes with racing. The 235/5 and 245/10&11 boxes have gears that are just pressed onto the counter shaft without any splines or keys. If you get them hot enough and supply enough torque through them you will spin the gear on the shaft, do that ONE TIME and the only way to fix it is to weld the gear to the shaft (there are no replacement parts!!!) . Remember the street car boxes were designed with a 140 HP 6400 rpm engine in a 2200lb car with 168SR13 tires in mind. It needed to be quiet and easy to shift even when it's below freezing in the winter and go 30,000 miles between oil changes. 200+ HP, 8000 rpm and 10" wide slicks are all MAJOR factors in the failure of a gearbox, Then add in a driver with a bad case of RED MIST and you better have a spare in the trailer. At some point the vintage racing organizations are going to have to allow aftermarket gearboxes when the supply of correct 50 year old gearboxes finally dries up. Getting someone to make new replacement gears is possible but the costs are prohibitive unless you can find few hundred other people that are willing to step up and write a check.

The bell housings are the same as the early 4 and 5 speed gearboxes used on the M30 6 cylinder E3/E9/E12/E24/E28 cars as well as the E30 M3. I have a few with and without the crank sensor mounts. They are not impossible to find.

What a great loss. Paul was a true enthusiast and we had many great conversations over the years. It was always a joy to meet up with him on either side of the border. He will be greatly missed. Go have a good drive in your 2002 and think of Paul.

Those are not factory marks or anything I have seen before. It is probably a regrind of some kind, I might even suspect it is a copy of the 300deg factory cam. It is possible to regrind a stock cam and get the 300 deg lift and duration by undercutting the base circle of the cam. This is just a guess but without running it on a Cam Doctor you won't know exactly what it is. Looks like Mark might have figured it out.