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About 02dag

  • Birthday 12/22/1968

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  1. 02dag


    This car was delivered new to an owner in Norway in september 1968. After that it had 10 more owners before I bought the car mostly in parts in 1987. It has stayed with me ever since. Put the car together and drove it a couple of years until it had a major brakedown in 1992. Striped it down to bare metal and after that money ran out. It rested in a barn until 2007, when I finally had the motivation to start the restoration. Had it running and MOT in 2015. Currently undergoing some modifiications. turbo, intercooler and different things which is severely delayed because I decided to build
  2. If you have a two circuit brake system shouldnt this have been a part of the standard setup? I ask because I got a leak in one of the two circuits, and the result was no brakes at all. I was a bit surprised actually, because when I grew up in the 70's and 80's I read a lot of car brochures and some of them had two curcuit brake system as a security sales point. They claimed that one circuit would work when the other failed. When I bought a bmw 2002 for the first time in 1987 I saw that it had two circuits and I thought then that I was safe. But it is not safe
  3. No offence, but the MOT guys will probably die of laughter when they see your parking brake wire "shims"
  4. you can use the brake lines from a golf mkiv as well. The last part on a golf with the banjo fitting is long enough to connect to where the 02 line connects to the trailing arm.
  5. Regarding shaft play. this is often caused by a loose screw inside the shaft. This holds the shaft tight. Very often it is only needed to retighten this and the shaft play goes away. What I want to say, do not throw away your distributor check that screw first. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
  6. I actually did it just for testing purposes. It runs steady at 800 now, but with a slight misfire now and then. This doesnt bother me, but I will try to adjust the timing a bit better. Problem is I have this getrag 265 tranny and the hole for checking the timing is not correctly located to the flywheel. Can only use the pulley in the front and there is no 25 degree mark, and I do not have a timing light with adjustable advance.
  7. Dlacey, you are right. Finally got my car to work again. Here is what I did: Tried to use another coil, this time a coil pack from Maxx performance. This coil have a lot lower primary resistance and therefore I managed to fry my hot-spark ignition. This meant that I was forced to go back to points, but I kept the newest coil that I had bought. adjusted dwell to 60 degrees first, and then set the timing correctly. then adjusted idle on carburetor. I have no problems now, but there is a slight misfire, and the engine is a littlebit difficult to start cold. But it runs at 500 rpm without problems. what I think happened from the start: 1. points or carburetor or coil were bad. My guess probably carburetor, because it was full of gunk when I later cleaned it. 2. Changed to hotspark, and this unit was already bad, It died on idle rpm, hence the timing light and the rev counter. that is my conclusion now 3. Changed coil which maybe didnt do anything 4. cleaned the carburetor which at that point didnt help because of the bad hot-spark. 5. Fried the Hot-spark, and changed to points 6. Engine works again I could have added "a lot of swearing" in there somewhere.
  8. I have changed between many different plug and coil wires. and I have also changed plugs. I had the car running all fine until two weeks ago. A slight misfire now and then on low rev full throttle. The car had points at that moment. One day when out driving, the engine suddenly stalled when approching traffic lights and so on. I guess it has been more or less like this ever since, but it is now not drivable as it was in the beginning of this. In the meantime I have changed to a new coil from another new coil. changed coil HT wire and plug wires several times, changed plugs, changed to the hot-spark ignition, cleaned the carb, recharged the battery, refreshed battery connections to ground. The rev-counter needle just follows the engine and goes straight to zero as the engine dies. Seems to me that it is the HT side of the coil. I could go down to the store and get a new coil, but I am then starting to think that there is something that eats coils in my car. I had a coil last autumn, but I suspected it to be faulty, and I changed it. So it was actually almost brand new. When this trouble started I didnt want to leave something untouched so I bought another one, different type this one with primary resistance of 3,3 ohms and no ballast resistor. It seemd at the time that it became better. The timing light dies and the engine follows together with the rev counter. I am considering to switching back to points just to check that once more.
  9. I have tried with two coils, One with a ballast resistor where the coil itself has 2 ohms, and the resistor 1 ohm giving a total of 3 ohms. the other coil have a primary resistance of 3,3 ohms. There are no ballast resistors in the electrical system connected to the ignition or starter. The Hotspark says that it would rather have a coil with primary restistance of 3,3 ohms and recommends a Beru coil with exactly that. Hotspark does not need a condenser as far as I know so I am running withouth it. I will check the battery voltage this evening. I am considering converting to efi and wasted spark.
  10. Done some more testing today. the engine now dies even if it is cold. Runs better though when cold, and doesnt need that much rpm, but still at 1500. I have the distributor without vacuum. The rev counter is attached on the LT side of the coil. I have found out now that it is the HT side that stops working. I have observed that the voltage across the coil LT side is at 13,7 volts when the engine is off. When starting the engine the voltage drops to 5,7 volts.When lowering the rpm from 1500 towards normal idle the voltage increases a bit to about 6,1 volts and the engine suddenly stops. There is no change in voltage when it does so, but when it has died the voltage increases to 13,7 again. It is the HT side that dies, and I can see this with the timing light as before mentioned. the timing light stops and the engine follows through. I have tried to attach a wire from the positive terminal directly to the coil to rule out a bad ignition switch. No difference. My guess is that something is wrong with the voltage on the coil and that makes it stop producing the high voltage spark in some way.
  11. I have cleaned the entire carburetor and I am not using choke. The car is in a heated garage. After the initial coughing when starting it goes fine until it gets warm. Then it suddenly dies. I will change the coil cable and have a close look at the distributor cap Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
  12. This is an m10 with single carb. Using hotspark ignition from http://hot-spark.com but have the same problem with points. The engine starts and runs very nice when cold. When getting warm it is only possible to maintain a running engine with high rpm. I would say at least 2000 rpm. When going below this the engine stalls. I am using a timing light and this suddenly stops and then the engine stalls. Looks to me like the coil stops working. I am not sure if the problem is on the ht or lt side. The coil is brand new. I will place a bulb between coil+ and ground to see if it is the lt side. I can't understand that it is the coil though. Maybe the cables? They are also new. Only thing that is not new is the distributor cap. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
  13. Thanks for many answers. In fact I want to cure both wheel interference and rear sagging. I have to use my BBS wheels due to the fact that I have converted the rear breaks to discs. the calipers doesnt fit under other wheels unless I go for 15 inch wheels. i dont want that just yet. i will buy completely new rubber inserts since the ones I have can be 47 years old. I have the motor boat stance now although I have cut the front springs 1 turn. I have another 1/2 or 3/4 left before the spring will fall out and the road worthyness inspection will fail. I will do that also. I cant really figure out if the moog cc827 are a common name for many products in many different shape and sizes or if it means one type of spring that is an almost exact match to the 02s springs. Are they stiffer?
  14. I have always had the problem with my car that the rear end is sagging. I have tried different rubber insert in the springs without success. I have also tried different springs too. None of the solutions have been any good. The problem reached a climax here the other day, when going hunting, I decided to drive the old lady. Circumstances happened so that in the end two of my buddies had to ride along with me on the way home. With full gear and equipment for three guys this wasn't fun with my e21 et13 bbs wheels. Anyone out there with a suggestion for new springs that hold up without welding in some metal bars?
  15. Thanks for the heads up on getting them back on. I have tried once more now, but the seals are stuck. I am afraid to damage the top of the valve guide, so I haven't used full force. Thought of maybe using a sort of slide hammer, if you know what I mean?
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