Preyupy

Well that was exciting, We should all feel good about that (unless you are in the market to BUY a Turbo)

I would sure check it. you don't even have to do it on a running engine. just pull the hose off the vacuum T and hook up a known good gauge along with it and pressure it up. Most of the reasonably accurate factory gauges have .5bar/7.5psi in the upper 1/3 of the green area. I had sensor hooked up to the manifold when I had 1004 on the dyno and recorded the run.

The factory boost gauge reads very high. The car is only making .5bar at maximum. It is the original KKK turbo not the reproduction.

Yep, E21 4 speed. if the bleed screw is aimed up, the slave cylinder is mounted up-side-down. The screw should be aimed down.

WOW a 3266cc M10! probably won't make power past 5000 rpm but it will have a ton of GRUNT!!

We just use the standard units. Most of the older cars just use a standard Blue coil and some kind of rev limiter(Pertronix,MSD, Micro Dynamics etc). They also work really well as a trigger for other ignition systems.

I have found over the last 10-15 years that the quality of ignition points ( Bosch, Lucas, GM, Ford and especially the aftermarket brands) have taken a turn towards the worst. It was not uncommon for 4 cylinder points to stay stable well past 7000rpm so the only reason to change to some other kind of ignition triggering device (even WITH points ignition is still electronic) I frequently have to try 4-5 sets of points now to find one that does not start to “float” and scatter the spark at 5000rpm and even lower. 6 cylinder BMW’s used the same points as the 4 cylinders and start to float even sooner. Using something like the Delta Mk10 does not change this, it does lower the amperage through the points and as such they do not “burn” as quickly but it makes no difference when they start to float. We run Pertronix igniters in over 80% of our race cars ( not just BMW’s) and have never had a failure. They are also dead stable to well over 11,000rpm on the Cosworth BD and M12 BMW engines. I have also adapted them to work in vintage 12 cylinder engines amongst others.

There is no difference in the snout between the 6 bolt and 8 bolt cranks. If it is touching it is more likely because the plastic cover is distorted because of heat and time (this is very common on Tii's) There is no reason not to use a 6 bolt crank if you can deal with the flywheel/pressure plate issues. Just make sure you use NEW flywheel bolts, Loctite and the proper torque on the bolts.

The problem with trying to get an OIL temp reading at the back of the head is there is no oil FLOW in that location. It is at the very end of the oil system (which is a great place to check for pressure) all you will really get is the temperature of the cylinder head at that location. The best locations are either in the oil pan or in the oil flow path (the oil filter housing as shown above is a perfect location). You have to know that the actual temp reading you get in either location is just an average number. There are places in the engine that the temp is much higher and others where it is lower. Wherever you put the sending unit you just need to get used to where it runs under NORMAL conditions and know that if it changes suddenly ( usually UP) you need to pay attention and figure out why.

I’m confused here. When you say driveshaft are you talking about the connection between the transmission and the differential? Just looking at the picture of the gearbox you posted it looks like the Input Shaft from the JH box is longer than the BMW 235/5 input shaft as well as the difference in the spline ( but that is easy enough to deal with). The only other thing you should need to think about is the transmission main shaft. What is the output spline like? Can you just remove the JH drive flange and used the old one from the BMW transmission? It looks to me like the JH gearbox does not have the “Pilot” snout that would keep the driveline centered when using a Guibo coupling. This is not a good idea!! If what you are asking is “will the main shaft from a 235/5 BMW gearbox fit in a JH 235/5”? Then I don’t know as I have never had a JH box apart. The only way to know is completely disassemble both boxes and compare them. If you have a good main shaft this might work. At this point you might also check to see if the gears on the input shafts are the same as well. If you have a good BMW input shaft in your pile of parts you might be able to exchange it as well as the main shaft and wind up with a “real” BMW box when you are done.

Also check with them to see what the turn around time is. Amazingly enough most of these guys got swamped this last year. It seems like everyone that was stuck at home because of COVID-19 took their car apart and sent things like injection pumps out to be rebuilt. I got 1 quote for a 230SL pump rebuild that included a 9 month wait to get it back.

That is an aftermarket "enrichment" device that was used by some people that had tried to use the stock KF pump on a modified engine. Something with a bigger camshaft and maybe header etc. If you tried to "turn up" the pump to deliver the amount of fuel needed at full throttle the mixture was too rich at idle and this just pulled on the arm and acted like the cold start system but only at full throttle. It is a very crude way of trying to get the mixture right. If you have a stock engine now it needs to be taken off and thrown in your neighbors pool.

I had a chance to buy a set almost 20 years ago for about $500 and didn’t even think about it. I know they are original etc but I don’t care for the look of them at all. That why in addition to the correct Stock steel wheels I have a set of Minilites and ATS Classics both with 1974 manufacture dates to run on the street. Good luck buying them.

They are rare, they are unique turbo parts and as such I’m sure if there was a bidding war the number would get crazy. If you have them and are trying to sell them $1000 each would be a good starting point. If you found some and are trying to buy them I’m sure anything less than $250 each would be an insult or the deal of the century.

The real question is what kind of return on investment will you get for anything you do to the car? If you spend $2000 on fixing the rust will you get more than $2000 more for the car than what it might sell for "as is"? Especially if you are into the car on the high side of the market already it is possible the least amount of money you will loose might be spending nothing on it and taking what ever you can get.

It is quite easy to replace the output shaft seals with the diff in the car. I am fairly certain that the side carrier bearings are not the cause of your "silvering". The shirring sound is most likely caused by a problem with one/both of the pinion bearings. It is best to remove the differential, take the back cover off and inspect it. If it has been run low on oil it is very possible the pinion bearings or even the gears were damaged.

You need #2

No. Description Supp. Qty From Up To Part Number Price Notes 01 Holder 1 11811245456 $110.76 ENDED 02 Hose 1 11811245459 $29.03 03 Self-locking hex nut M6 2 07129922705 $0.27 04 Cover 3 11811245366 $3.46 05 Ring 4 11811245365 $14.46 06 Washer 2 11811245436 ENDED 07 Hex bolt M10X25-8.8 ZN 1 07119913834 $0.71 08 Holder 1 11811245354 $110.76 ENDED 09 Engine damper FA.BILSTEIN 1 11811245364 $289.23 ENDED 09 Engine damper 1 11811246770 $80.17 only in conjunction with -- Ring 1 11811245365 $14.46 -- Ring 1 11811245570 $4.60 ENDED -- Ring 2 11811246374 $1.25 10 Rubber mounting right 1 11811245353 $111.56 11 Set bolt 10 M10X20 2 07509064062 ENDED

The opening in the spoiler to the right of the oil cooler opening does not connect to the air cleaner intake. There is a hose that runs to the air duct under the turbocharger. It just blows air AT the turbo. I’ll dig out the part number fir the hose.

Sure there is, the stock Turbo diff ratio was 3:36. I tried it in my ‘70 with the 245/5 gearbox on a drive to Portland years ago. The climb from Fife to Hwy 18 @ 70mph was a struggle. I’ve now got a 245/10 and a 3.45 diff in it. It will be interesting to see what I can pull going through turn 1 now.

They are defiantly 45's they have the set screws for the chokes and Aux venturies. The old 40 mm carbs did not have these. You are right there are a lot of old DCOEs that don't have the correct covers on them.

The original TiSA carbs were 45 DCOE 15/16. They were exactly the same carburetor except for the throttle linkage arms. You could buy new carbs in the '70s directly from Weber so the chance that these actually came off a TiSA are really small. The numbers on the carburetors indicate their original purpose. The difference in the actual carburetor bodies is the number and position of the idle circuit progression holes only everything else just specifies the jetting, Aux venture and choke sizes and type of throttle arms installed. So back when you could order them they came jetted and set up exactly the way BMW specified them. Now when you order a new 45DCOE all you can get is a 152 which is a generic body with I believe basic 2 liter SOHC Ford Pinto jetting. You then have to buy all the correct stuff for what ever you are planning on using them on. Those are correct NK manifolds but if you don't see TiSA cast into them they are just Ti manifolds. Hopefully they are 2000Ti and not 1800Ti as the port shapes are quite different. Unless someone did some port matching to make the 1800Ti manifolds work. I also hope they matched the inlet side of the manifolds to the 45 MM carburetors, the original Ti manifolds were designed for 40mm carbs.

That’s not out of a 235/5. It’s the reverse idler gear from a Mk 4-9 Hewland. Someone has not been careful shifting from 1st-2nd and nicked Reverse a few times. It belongs in your neighbor’s pool.

Pack it carefully so the shift shaft does not get bent if they drop the crate.

I don't see how a "Salvage" title should make any difference on a 40+ year old car. The only consideration is the condition of the car. Why should a car that was "totaled" for what ever reason sometime in it's life, then repaired correctly, be worth less than a car that was never officially "totaled" but sat out in a field and rusted so bad that someone had to replace most of the major structure and panels to put it in the same condition as the "salvage" car? You can debate the value of #'s matching engine and chassis, original specification or modified engine, transmission, suspension, interior, or even body (flairs, spoilers, color etc). If you want a nice 2002 do your homework, find a good one, and BUY IT! There might be 30 Virgin 2002's left in the world, all of the rest of them have a past! There was a time when they were just a 15 year old German box on wheels probably in the hands of their 3rd or 4th owner, quite possibly an 18 year old with their 1st car. Worrying about Salvaged titles is for cars that have not hit the bottom of their depreciation. I purchased my 1970 1600 when it was 4.5 years old with 43000 miles on it for less than 45% of it's original cost, 2-3 years later if it had been in an accident that cost more than $600 to repair they would have totaled it. Now it costs $300 to put a new windshield in it.