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stone02

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  1. stone02
    Hi, i have removed the pump and the filter housing both together and seperatly. it is an easy job but is very slow and it gets tight in there. i use 1/4" drive and short handled wrenches to do the job. from start to finish 3-4 hours, including alot of cleaning and scraping. take your time and make sure that NO dirt gets into the motor or the oil line to the pump. good luck stone
  2. stone02
    Hi, i have been fixing 02's for customers for 25 years and this job is not for one day. i would just buy a new spring, push piston, and crush washer. then read the repair manual twice and then do the job. you only need to take off the valve cover to do the job. maybe replace the valve cover gasket also. post more questions if necessary. good luck, stone
  3. stone02
    Hi, the speedo drive from a 4 speed will fit. the auto trans stuff usually doesn't work. that gear has to fine a tooth type and the large part is always aluminum like the case. if you know where the 5 speed came from the speedo drive stuff is usually stuck to the speedo cable. good luck, stone
  4. stone02
    Hi, Bill_Riblett in Arlington, VA , is exactly right. this is a very common occcurence on my customers cars. the grond from the alternator to the motor gets old and the ground from the battery to both the starter and the body corrode. once this happens the starter looks for a draw from anything to help it spin. i have even seen parking brake cables heat up in the tube under the car when a battery is rear mounted and the ground is insufficient. I save out this portion of harness from every car that i salvage. replace this harness from the inner fender area with a good used one, then replace the positive and negative cables with factory wires. also, check the battery for boiling over and test the alternator for over charging. good luck stone
  5. stone02
    Hi, don't have experiance with troy built blowers , but there yard equip is solid. my blower is from 1970 and still knocks it out of the park every time i fire it up. Ariens Brand. can eat small shrubs and drink wet slush. only the drive system is not so advanced. rock hard rubber on steel rims. i just push it through the big stuff. good luck in the snow, i love the white stuff!! stone
  6. stone02
    HEY, i am supposed to work on that car some day and i don't want to have to thaw it out first. but, i'm sure the pup likes the frosty paws. chris
  7. stone02
    if you look at the visable body structure you can see that it is from an e30 as it says, in the add. apparently the outer shell is placed over the e30 chassis. terry sather did something similar to this with an 02 and an e36 m3. stone
  8. stone02
    Hi, the hub is factory bmw. the caliper is ATE brand. stone
  9. stone02
    the vw above is a Harrlequin golf only 260 or so made. that is a collector piece.
  10. stone02
    HI, mars give me a call i have an auto 02 that is a solid candidate. plus cash. stone 215.520.6718
  11. stone02
    don't waste your time on a rebuild look in the parts section for a used trans. $100 is a good price for a known trans.replace the clutch, pilot bearing, throw out bearing and crankshaft rear seal. you'll be back on the road soon.
  12. stone02
    Hi, you should post the area that you live in, so that people who work on 02's in your area could respond. if you are within the philadelphia pa area i could do the job for you. the sub frame is easy to change out. the part is 100 dollars plus 5 hours work. I charge $40 an hour. many members here could do this for you in a weekend. good luck chris
  13. stone02
    Hi, that car has a storied history. i have kept three customers on the road as daily drivers before it was sold about three years ago. first owner died, sold as estate car second owner held for 2 years sold third owner drove for 5 years sold fourth owner drove 9 years, three engines, two auto trans' sold went to CR wholesale, at carlisle two years ago for sale. i think it wnet to Ohio then ? now florida. engine was a door prize that i bought from someone and disassembled and rebuilt. it had over 50 accorns inside it. good luck, stone
  14. stone02
    Hi, well i have seen this in many customers cars with the exact same symptoms. i have found that in many cases the heater valve is the culprit. when you operate the car in short cycles the engine builds and disipates heat and pressure. the car starts out with 0 psi in the radiator and builds up to the release pressure of the cap. then the cap releases the coolant. most caps hold 15 psi which allows the engine temp to rise up to 235F approximately. well the heat and pressure find those little o-rings in the heater valve and push coolant past them. the coolant doesn't flow past the o-ring it is nearly vaporize and cant be seen. you may see a small indication on the top of the heater box that looks like calcium deposit. so you can do a few things. change the heater valve, loosen the cap, or BEST replace the cap with a low psi release like 7-9 psi this will protect the o-rings and the old radiator from blow-outs. good luck post the results stone
  15. stone02
    Hi, i just wanted to know if you read my post and if the fan blade cover is behind the fan instead of on the front? i will check the post again in the morning. thanks chris
  16. stone02
    hi, i am not sure BUT the third picture shows what appears to be the fan bolted through the clover plate and then thru the pulley and finally into the water pump. this may sound strange. the fan needs to have the large round cover plate on the front of the fan not behind it. see realoem picture in the engine section then cooling then 11-51. the exploded view shows that the large cover plate goes in front of the fan blades. i have seen this mistake before on cars that had the water pump replaced and then the radiator punched by the blades. ALSO, REPLACE THAT CRACKED FAN IT WILL SHATTER AND SEND PARTS INTO THE RADIATOR AND WHEN UNBALLANCED WILL WEAROUT THE PUMP TOO SOON. GOOD LUCK STONE P.S. post if this helped please
  17. stone02
    Hi, i expect that you are talking about the mounts that are out by the wheels. these can be removed one at a time. the long bolt that comes from the body pan can be drifted up onto the back seat area and then reinstalled with a good body sealer. just take out the back seat and clean inside the crevice (sp.) that it was in. i do it this way for customers cars, and it is also easy to dismantle a car buy the same method. good luck stone
  18. stone02
    Hi, yes you can just replace the rotor. just make sure the face of the hub is clean and flat. you don't need to regrease but if the grease looks or smells burnt then use a paper towel and clean away as much of the old and replace with alot of new grease. finally don't take out the bearing on the inside unless it is suspect. a new seal should only cost $3 if you want to remove bearing and seal. good luck stone
  19. stone02
    Hi, the starter lock out feature is not in the tumbler, it is in the electrical portion of the column. when you pulled the key out of the running car and then returned did you re- install the key in the inverted positon as it was when you took it out? if the tumbler is out of the car the key should have no restricted movement. you most likely put the key in upside down and now need to reverse it to have the tumbler turn free again. good luck stone
  20. stone02
    Hi, i use a drive line shop here near me. they are Rebuilt Parts, of Pensauken NJ. Henry is a perfectionist and the parts come back painted and indexed so you can disassemble. call him and inquire about cost.(856) 662-2419 good luck stone
  21. stone02
    hi, when you install the 4 (four) clips that hold the motor in the housing it will not move. if the clips are installed incorrectly the motor can twist in the housing. the clip must loop into the metal part of the motor body and then rest in the indent on top of the cage. take better pictures and post them. to show the clips. good luck stone
  22. stone02
    Hi, put something over the hub area so that it touches the part in line with the face of the drum. now hit ti with a 6 or 8 lbs maul. straight thru to the ground. i think that you can reuse the hub. just re- tighten it properly. good luck stone
  23. stone02
    Hi, just my little rant. i thought this might work for me because i am 45 and have NEVER bought a new car. most of the stuff that i drive has at least 250K miles. as it turns out i don't qualify for this either because everything i operate ,read 10 vehicles, are to old to be junked. that just ain't right. i would love to get rid of the 84 suburban, or the 84 300d. both are good cars but the money toward a high mileage car would help me over the edge. the clunker thing should have been for vehicles over 15 years only and meeting all the other requirements. i think that both my wife and i would have gotten new cars then. stone
  24. stone02
    Hi, the guides do remove. sometimes more than one set of guides get stuck in the block and head. just remove ones that oppose eachother.
  25. stone02
    Hi, i would be interested in the rear sub-frame complete from rotor to rotor. including uncut brake cables, and the differential. if you would like to sell some or all call me or e-mail. thanks stone 215.520.6718
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