stone02

i have one for sale it already spoken for what is a fare price? thanks stone

Hi, after many years of lowering and then raising cars for customers i have found that most of the time the front is not the problem. if you raise the rear 1/2" on your car with a thicker spring pad the car will lean forward onto the front springs and push it down just enough. if you cut the springs you cant go back. MOOG makes a progressive spring for our cars rear CC 827 which starts with the car 1/2" above the original height. when you add tools and junk in the trunk the car will come down nicely. these can be cut down 1/4 of a turn untill you get the stance you want. good luck stone

Hi, also try to disconnect the starter overnite. many times the solenoid gets old and hangs up a bit. when this happens the battery drains very fast. if the starter turns slowly then this is a good indication that it should be replaced. good luck stone

Hi, how many would you like? send me the shipping info. no charge. stone

OKAY the solution, this became a little test for me. i knew i had missed something very easy. so i called the previous owner(PO) and told him that i was on my way over. 20min. later i am in the driveway at PO (nealf) house. i said you drive it and tell me what you are feeling. hey sat down and said that something was very wrong. the drive made him more concerned that he had sold someone a problem car.(not true) well we get back to his house and i get the work light and start looking at all the mounts again. i push hard on the motor from left to right side and the motor moves just enough to see that the driver side block mount is MISSING A BOLT. how could i have not seen this the first time. well actually you can't see it unless you have your head down on the fender next to the brake fluid res. which was what i was doing. fine go home and install the bolt..... NO,,,,, the bottom bolt was in there but it was loose. so i put in the top bolt that was missing and remove the WRONG bolt from the block. install the new correct bolt and the block is STRIPPED. clean out the block and fill it with locktite then install a new clean bolt for the night. NOON, start the car. WTF WTF still vibrating. now pissed off. motor running, under car(don't try this at home),looking around with two work lights and an angry attitude. what do i find. on the passenger side on top of the sub frame jammed into the greasy grit is the missing bolt from the other side of the engine from its location behind the subframe. the top side of the bolt is squarely supporting the motor on the OILPAN. more cursing, even after i had just come home from church. jack up the running motor on a block of wood and dig out the bolt, which was also the wrong size. so now the motor is as smooth as it was a week ago. the owner was very happy and i took the afternoon off and played with my kids at the city pool. 25 years and i still find some new stuff every once in a while. stone

Hey, first i will answer all the replies: plugs firing? yes motor runs well. to much fuel? no, the car gets great mpg 25 or26. bad motor mount? well i checked them the first time around and they were fine. that was a clue. bad water pump? no it was fine and not loose. broken fan? nope it is almost new. right side limit bracket? is thought that this might have been the problem, but it was missing, so i found a good one, but didn't get it installed yet. fan backwards? no it would still work if it was reversed i have seen this. trans mount? i thought about this too, but it is new and oil free. plug wire fried? nope i checked them and they were fine. Exhaust manifold bad? i looked at it but wrote it off as not part of the problem. i will post the solution in next reply. stone

"is the vibration above 3500 the same whether the car is sitting or moving? does it have the trans/exhaust braket? do you feel vibration through the shifter? the steering wheel? have you replaced the steering guibo?" yes the vibration is there moving or stationery. exhaust bracket in place. vibration also in steering wheel. guibo for steering good. good questions that i looked at also but not the problem. keep trying. stone

Hi, well the car was dropped off on sunday a week ago. i picked at it all week. the problem a hard vibration above 3500RPM and the previous owner sensed the vibration at idle, he owned it for ten years. so all week i searched, i replaced the alternator that had ZERO bushings in it. a changed all the bad battery cables, i checked the exhaust, the drive shaft, the motor mounts, the throttle rod from the firewall to the carb. i put in 10 dollars of gas because the test drives burned up all the feul it had when delivered. the shifter was tight. no broken down pipe from the cast iron header. clue!!! check the obvious again!!! so now i want tho hear some suggestions as to the possible cause. i am now going to deliver the car back to the owner fixed. the answer when i get back in two hours. good luck stone

align/mark the drive shaft so that you can reassemble. heat the nut on the drive shaft to red hot. then loosen. the heat will not effect the shaft. this is the only way that i am able to seperate the halves. loctite the nut upon replacement. good luck stone

i am interested in the cylinder head cover. contact me thru the e-mail on the board. thanks chris

check that , me i'm a parts changer!!!! not mechanic stone

Hey, i will be going to V@V and will try to catch you guys along the way. send me your tracking info for times and locations. thanks stone

Hi, one thing that no one has mentioned or may not know. all the latches have a small pair of washers that go between the outer and inner shells that make up the latch assembly. they go on the shaft portion where it goes thru both pieces. when someone opens this assembly and they are not careful the washer/spacer falls out unknown. then you cannot tighten the hardware enough to keep the window tight. this aslo bends the latch so it won't close all the way. good luck stone

yes the cv axles can be used end for end they are universal

jonathan hello, chris isaacson here. i don't want to seem like a buzzard. but, i just saw the post about your new car and would like to know if the tii is available as a salvage purchase, or am i too late to harvest the parts for donor stuff. please contact me stone02@verizon.net 215.520.6718 thanks

Hi, when the glass is all the way up in the door there are a few things to look for. first is the glass tight in the track felt/ fuzz. if not you need to hold the glass tight to the fuzz and retighten the slider that has two rollers on it and also a plastic slider. this part needs to be forced hard against the aluminum track and the glass rotated also so that when you release it all the window doesn't slump down. if that is good then there is a stop on the back edge of the glass to track attachment that's adjustable up and down to allow the glass to travel just a little bit higher. now for the hard part, if you want to reset the entire window in the opening of the door shell this might help to square the window in the body opening. this requires the loosening of all the hardware on the vent window frame so that the bottow of the track at the front can ride back in its mount and the entire vent and window rotate together in the door shell to raise the trailing edge of the glass up. also as mike mentioned make sure that the window regulator is rotated as far as possible in its three point bolt patern so that you get the most up travel possible. take a picture and post it please. good luck stone

Hi, it is a very washed out verona. my question is where is the original body VIN plate? check the inner fender stamping for the vin. and check the motor for the vin. and check the dash pad and make sure you are getting a car that matches the title. good luck stone

Hi, it is a very washed out verona. my question is where is the original body VIN plate? check the inner fender stamping for the vin. and check the motor for the vin. and check the dash pad and make sure you are getting a car that matches the title. good luck stone

Hi, if the hood feels like it has no support or that it is pulling itself down then the hood support is probably on side for side the wrong way. or the aluminum end have been swapped with each other. the actual fitment of the hood is not actually a concern. just the cross bar. a few trail removal and refits will give you a hood that stays in the up postiton. good luck stone

Hi, well 12 years ago i was delivering a car to a friend, after a driveline rebuild, in NM. it was dark and very late. i deceided to slowly press it to the floor. well the 5 speed and the 3.64 gears with the tii stuffed full of cam and pistons got the needle to point straight down for almost 10 min. In the year 2002 we drove from philly to the show in Keystone CO. my friend neals car tossed a bumper part to the side of the road and i deceided to grabb it. well the tractor trailer got it flat before i tossed it into the back seat and took off to catch the caravan. the targa has a very strong motor and 5 speed with a LSD rear so i ran it all the way up till the needle was on the underside of the rest pin for the zero. that used a 1/4 tank of fuel to catch them. i say the first run in NM was 120+ and the run on the way thru KS was 120+ for 25 min. thats all i will addmit to because i am still stupid most of the time!!!!! good luck KEEP THE SHINEY SIDE UP stone

signatu8re check

Hi, dan i am in center city and will come knock it loose for you. just let me know were and when. i can usually come by after 6pm any nite. 215.520.6718 stone stone racing co

Hi, the button is a pedal stop for regular gas pedal use. when you really mash the pedal it drops down farther and allows the downshift cable to actuate. don't remove it. good luck, stone

lube with AFT