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  1. Yeah my neighbors pool is full of bits of my car thanks to CD's advice I have taken over the years. Thanks to Him big time for the knowledge being shared along with many others.
  2. Just to update those interested...goes to show you that suddenly replacing hot spark, plug wires, coil, plugs, wiring, voltage regulator etc... the old KISS system rears its head. Turns out the PO broke a key off in the ignition and then replaced with a new one. In doing so he apparently hooked the lead to the coil up to the ignition switch on the wrong spade so as soon as the key returned into running position it would cut the power to the coil. Good news is at least all of those parts are spanking brand new and all have backups now! Car starts and runs now just need to adjust valves set timing and tweak the carb and then start on brakes, suspension, blah blah
  3. My son and I have been going through the 76 he bought last month and this weekend the bumpers came off. They are in good shape if any one is interested. Anyway, when I took the rear bumper off I noticed the chrome exhaust pipe, see pic. At closer inspection see second pic. Find the funniest things on these old cars
  4. Thanks for the quick info from all, I'll update as to how this all comes out.
  5. ok that makes sense...now I have a switched power wire that connects to the electric choke see in photo...is that correct? If so that comes directly from fuse 12 so I should be able to tap that to connect the solenoid in question correct??
  6. OK, there is the gem I have been waiting for...the existing red wire from the solenoid is connected to what looks like the bottom of the manifold...I'm certainly no genius but that sucker does not have power going to it. Where "should" the wire going to that solenoid be connected?? That may be the bigger of the issues. Help me out with that if anyone knows...direct to ignition as is the coil?
  7. I'll check tonight on the vacuum leak...thought I did all of that also but have been know to miss details... but my question...do I have an IDF series Weber and should I buy the jets with that in mind?
  8. Hi, Well my son (16) now has the affliction and bought a 76 that when purchased 3 weeks ago was not running. Now it will fire with carb spray as a starting fuel and I can keep it running so long as I mash the accelerator, as soon as I let up, it dies and appears to be flooded as it will cough and backfire through the carb as we try to restart. Can see a nice puddle of fuel rippling on manifold when looking through carb throats. Car will not idle at all. History, installed: new hot spark along with coil recommended by the hot spark system. New rotor button, new cap, plugs and wires. cleaned and check all grounds ran fresh wires to coil etc... changed oil, fresh gas in tank replaced all fuel hoses from front to back with new clamps, tank looks new, sender looks new etc... I have taken loose the fuel line connecting to carb and cranked car to be sure the fuel pump was indeed working and works exactly as my 73. Now to the carb...it is new looking 32/36 (a little crusty around the edges as you can see in pics) but all the jets look shinny and new along with the filter inside the housing at the inlet. Took all out cleaned with carb cleaner including needle valve. Here is where I am going and need input. This is an electric choke carb, but the idle jet is connected to a solenoid looking deal as seen in the photo with a red wire connecting to it and then attaching under the manifold on a sensor. I want to use the famous and great working prescription CD recommends as it is great on my 73 (thx CD). I just don't know which carb series I have to buy the jets recommended as the ones that are in it are much larger than they should be based on the CD method. My float is a double that according to FAQ is an IDF series...should I get all of my jets with this series in mind? If you have read through all the previous nonsense please let me know if I am on the right track or should be throwing things in my neighbors pool, my son has already been tossed in...
  9. I added the ground but it seems to make no difference, when my parts come in I'll update.
  10. This car was purchased with hot spark installed (don't think it ever started with it, looks brand new) so I'm trying to figure out what PO did. I have new set of plugs wires and rotor coming in from Blunt so I am trying to eliminate as many issues as I can while waiting for the parts...
  11. ok...so are we all saying ground from that lower stud to engine block...right?
  12. thats what I thought too, ground wire from the lower stud to engine grounding location?
  13. Take a look at this pic. The only wires you see going to the back of this alternator is the 3 prong plug (top right) and the power to the top left stud. There is nothing attached to the lower stud...is this correct? My son just bought this 76, it won't start, getting power to hot spark coil, then to distributor, but nothing at the spark plug wire ends. Trying to figure this out with minimal knowledge. Battery checks out as good but engine turns over very slowly...
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