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stone02

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  1. stone02
    Hi, more than a week ago someone posted the availability of LYNX mani- folds. i was not smart enough to book mark the post. does anyone have this info/ thanks stone
  2. stone02
    (nt)
  3. stone02
    Hi, well i do agree about the shift boot. but i am sure that you have the insulation on correctly. there are more than two shots of the under side of the hood in the blue manuals that depict the placement of these pieces. i have installed these pieces in the same fashion for many years on cars using the pictures in the book. the pictures are usually taken during pre- sales of the car, when the factory is performing breakdown and reassembly for instructional information that is given to the mechanics. it is also then incorporated into the manuals that customers and dealers have on hand to repair there cars. i learned this actually from a book about how the factory figures out charge times for service repairs, from a neighbor who worked at a factory in the 60's. he was one of those guys that was trained to work anywhere in the factory line and was a manager at the plant. i don't know if you can dispute the points but you should take a manual with you to the show just in case. i have a few old cars in the shop i will check and photo for you if you would like. good luck stone
  4. stone02
    Hi, you can send it out to H&R fuel inj. they are on long island. 631.589.1600 i think it is this number. they are in bohemia ny on knickerboker ave hans is the man. factory trained in the50's Bosch Germany is his largest single customer turn around is 4 days cost for pump and injectors is about $600. this is a gaurenteed no brainer to eliminate the fuel injection as a problem. good luck stone stone racing co phila pa
  5. stone02
    before the first 2002; i am 44 now, bought the first car when i was 12 1965 lincoln the rest of the list up to the first, two '65 lincolns 63 t bird 65 t bird 73 cutlass X3 76 toyota 77 k car 79 celica 69 spyder conv. 68 cutlass conv 69 cutlass conv 67 cougar 67 405 peugeot held part ownership with family in these, 67 fury 76 granada 66 xke 4.2 part ownership with school friends 76 colt wagon 71 beetle 75 scirocco first 2002 in nov 1983 70 02 auto since then; 49 chevy truck 65 lincoln still 54 ford f-350 approx- 80 2002's, more than 30 in storage. 84 300 d MB 84 suburban 2002 toyota 4-runner 89 iX 250K still running 72 2002 targa 73 2002 targa 76 MB truck L407D 94 525t 95 530t 76 R90/6 74 ct90 56 sedan delivery chevy 74 fj 40 51 6100 coe truck 91 suburban 60 vw transporter 64 vw transporter 79 honda accord 88 M3 91 318 is 84 GTI VW what a long list of autos that have run through my life. i know that there must be a few more but it does not matter. rite now i have 8 cars legal on the street and two motorcycles, and three trailers. i'll just quit now, it makes me feel like i just need to finish 1 project and be happy.
  6. stone02
    Hi, if you are having problems with the fuel filter you should remove the pressure regulator. then you should put CLEAR in line filters before and after the pump. the filters are for VW bugs and they cost $1.25 each so buy a box of ten at napa and keep them in the trunk. once all the junk is cleared out then run some Lucas fuel injection cleaner thru the tank and the rest of the system. the clear filters have been used for years and are a good why to keep an eye on the condition of the fuel. good luck stone
  7. stone02
    Hi, i only have a recommendation for getting a lift. i called a few local lift service shops and asked if they had any used lifts. most did have at least two choices. and the average installed price was $800. i now have an old hoffman lift, which appears to be almost new. try this way and you may get a great deal. good luck stone
  8. stone02
    Hi, the most likely culprit is that the radiator is restricted on the inside. but, you should also check that the front of the radiator is not plugged with dirt or leaves. curtis ingram on this board has the only good radiator replacements. you may need to send him yours because most automatic radiators have a cooler in them. good luck stone
  9. stone02
    Hi, i need the ignition switch which is in the collumn. it is very easy to remove. a small jewlers screwdriver is what is used to back out the red painted head of the flat screw type set screw. it has a white plastic connector above the collumn that pulls out. let me know thanks chris stone02 at verizon dot net
  10. stone02
    Hi, once you have bleed the clutch system of it's air bubbles, you usually will not have more problems. this is because the clutch slave cyl. is fed from the top and therefore the bubbles travel back to the master cyl. then from there out of the clutch master and up to the resevior(sp). the other problem related to clutch drift is when the pilot bearing begins to fail or bind up on the input shaft of the transmission. if the clutch armature moves 17mm and stays there and the car begins to roll then i would bet the cost of the bearing that this will be your next repair. so when you are in there change the clutch, throwout bearing, pilot bearing, the rear main crank seal, and the oil galley crush washer. good luck stone
  11. stone02
    Hi, have you replaced all four (4) flexible brake lines? if you have not then do this first. next make sure that the brake pedal ACTUALLY does return all the way. also check the return spring in the foot pedal box behind the pedal mounting point. if this spring is not tight then reset it . also make sure that the pedal box is empty behind the pedal armature and below this area inside the box also. i have seen junk slide back and forth under the brake lever. next loosen the bolt that the two pedals are secured with only one sixth of a turn. then under the hood behind the booster is a bolt that is part of the brake linkage. loosen this also 1/6 of a turn. both these bolts are affected by heat and moisture.these are tricks that i have used for years to find brake problems. once you find the point of binding replace or clean and reset all the parts that you have messed with. PLEASE post a followup. thanks good luck stone
  12. stone02
    Hi, have you replaced all four (4) flexible brake lines? if you have not then do this first. next make sure that the brake pedal ACTUALLY does return all the way. also check the return spring in the foot pedal box behind the pedal mounting point. if this spring is not tight then reset it . also make sure that the pedal box is empty behind the pedal armature and below this area inside the box also. i have seen junk slide back and forth under the brake lever. next loosen the bolt that the two pedals are secured with only one sixth of a turn. then under the hood behind the booster is a bolt that is part of the brake linkage. loosen this also 1/6 of a turn. both these bolts are affected by heat and moisture.these are tricks that i have used for years to find brake problems. once you find the point of binding replace or clean and reset all the parts that you have messed with. PLEASE post a followup. thanks good luck stone
  13. stone02
    Hi, if in fact your car has the original rear diff. it is a 3:45 rear. this was used because the 72 has more power and therefore could pull the car with a taller rear ratio. it also allows the car the have a faster top speed. if the rear is the original you should look into using the ring and pinion in a LSD diff. if you don't want it, i would buy it if it is still in usable condition. good luck stone
  14. stone02
    Hi, you may find that a few people are located just outside dc in arlington and fairfax county. i have a small shop in philly if you need something e-mail be back if you would like too. stone
  15. stone02
    Hi, usually this rough run is a sign of the points slipping. unless of course you have an electronic ign. so take the cap off and reset the points. even if you think that they are fine reset them WITH a feeler gauge. it takes two minutes and then you can eliminate this as a problem. most of my customers poor run conditions result from slipped points in the distributor. good luck stone
  16. stone02
    Hi, i have installed many of these sets for customers. you are in fact missing a bushing that goes on the shaft. when i got them they were always loose in the packing and not yellow- chromate coated, just plain mild steel, about the outside diameter of a 13mm socket. look around and then call them about the piece. good luck stone
  17. stone02
    Hi, the oil that you see is coming from around the exhaust stud. the stud appears to be too far threaded into the head. remove the head cover and check to see that the stud is flush with the inside of the head. you can remove the cast iron header and clean the stud hole, after taking out the stud in the cylinder head, with brake parts cleaner and the put Lock-tite thread locker/sealer on the stud and reinstall it. wait overnite and put the manifold back on. good luck stone
  18. stone02
    i should have more than one in the shop. call me and we can search the place. 215.520.6718 stone stone racing co center city phila pa
  19. stone02
    Hi, that is an old Zender kit from the 80's.
  20. stone02
    i either need a welding hat or a hair piece to protect that patch of exposed skin. DAMN THATS BAD stone......
  21. stone02
    Hey, your in my scrouge zone. it sounds like you may have some good stuff. post the inventory please. if you change your mind or need help, let me know. thanks stone stone racing co philadelphia pa
  22. stone02
    Hi, all that a relay does is carry power from the battery or other source to and item that needs power. the relay usually has a fuse on the control side and or the ground side. additionally, the relay should have a fuse on the hot side of the input for the relay. that being said, follow the wires from the relay to where they go and write it down. then you should be able to test the relay and reconnect the wires and install the burnt fuses. this relay was most likely wired to the pump for safety and then the radio was added later. i would seperate these two items permanently. also check the radio fuse and ground for simpathetic burnout when the spark shower started. remember, the electrical wires hold in the smoke. when the smoke is let out then you have to reset the system so the smoke can replenish itself.(joke)
  23. stone02
    Hi, yes there is a paper gasket under the aluminum holder for the rear main seal, it is a horse shoe shape. also buy a new oil pan gasket. additionally, under the flywheel there is an oil galley plug that has a crush washer that you should change. check the crankshaft for a wear line in the mating face between the rear seal and the edge. if you have to you can reset the depth of the seal slightly to rub in a different location. some green loctite on the flywheel threads will stop any oil from getting through. when you remove and replace the oil pan, make sure that you undimple the bolt holes in the pan so that it compresses the new gasket evenly. more questions? keep asking!!! good luck chris
  24. stone02
    stone02@verizon.net try this, its the same as in the profile. thanks
  25. stone02
    stone02@verizon.net try this, its the same as in the profile. thanks
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