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About H_Krix

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  1. Which side are you hooking up to the anode and which to the cathode?
  2. Well, I spent some time last night with another slew of attempted fixes. In case anyone happens to dig this out of the archives on a search in the future, here's my catalog of attempts: First, pin #2: I tried running this through a capacitor and into the tach input. For reference, Pin #2 is a diagnostic pin (called the IDM) which sends a signal to the ECU. The IDM signal is triggered by the flyback voltage of the coil being fired. The following was taken from http://www.dainst.com/info/edis/edis.html The EDIS module processes this into a 512us pulse on the IDM line during operation. When the engine is stopped, but the Key is turned on (KOEOff), the EDIS module emits a 64us pulse every 262.144ms to indicate proper operation. Because of this, any tachometer operation from this line must filter out the 64us pulses. Short version, I tried 10uf, 22uf, 47uf, 100uf, 500uf and 1000uf caps. 22-100 all sent signal, but the tach was about twice as bouncy as in Colin's vid. 10 and 1000 would both register nothing on engine revs. In my research, I also found out that pin #11 on the EDIS-4 module is the "Clean Tach Output Signal" and that some Volvo guys have been able to run this straight into their tach without issue. Not the case with mine, unfortunately. I tried the capacitors on this line as well with similar results to the above tests with pin #2. Last ditch, I went out to the junkyard and yanked the tach out of a Mercury Tracer. The backside is as simple as ours: voltage, ground and input - even labeled on the circuitboard too. Plugged it up to pin #2 and got a smooth clean arc, but the engine rev count was incorrect. It seemed to "slow" as the tach got towards 4k or so, and the needle wouldn't move past 4500 even as the engine was revving to 6k. Swapping to pin #11 had the same results. I don't know if this is an issue with my EDIS, the tach, or god knows what else, but I'm goign to comb through the junkyard again next weekend to yank a couple more EDIS modules and Ford tachs to see what I can find out. Has anyone just used a universal VDO tach with EDIS? I think that's my next move if I can't get this sorted out soon.
  3. Hm, what you've got going on there is pretty much the same thing I have running the #3 set up above - most of the bouncing is on decel but the tach works well on the upswing. Is this the kind of tach response most people are getting out of the EDIS?
  4. Nice, that's worth a shot! I have a ton of spare caps sitting around too. Took a look at the tach chip schematic, its essentially 2 crossover resistors across the diodes without the zener diode in the circuit. Tried this as well, tach jumped straight to zero any time the engine revs rose from idle.
  5. Hey guys! Geez, its been like a year since I've been on here. My little '02 has been sitting patiently in my garage waiting for the day when I'd have the money to pick up the project again, and I'm happy to say I finally have a small slice of disposable income to hopefully get things going again. My new year's resolution is to get Phoenix on the road, and I'm really hoping I can make good on things. So today was spent chasing down electrical issues, mostly with the gauge cluster. I'm running MSII in my car, and while tuning has a while to go, I spent some time trying to get the tach up and going. Poked around on the forums, read about some of the various ways people have gotten theirs to work, and ended up trying out a bunch of different variations on a breadboard. Attached is a pic of each one of the schematics I tested. #1: Lots of bouncing on idle, needle would peg to zero when engine is revved #2: No output #3: Bouncing on decel, full 7500 RPM range otherwise. This was the "best" solution thus far #4: Needle pegs to zero when engine is revved #5: Same as #3, Bouncing on decel, full 7500 RPM range otherwise. Seemed slightly more sluggish on decel, but hard to determine #6: Idle revs show zero, doesn't register RPM until 2000 or so, then jumps quickly to 5k. No bouncing. So... anyone have any suggestions on ways to nail this bug down? I'm hoping I'm not more than a couple months off from getting Phoenix back on the road, but the last little nagging bits are always the biggest headache. Thanks in advance!
  6. necrobump, wow. I have no idea what I have left. This listing was from 2 years ago. I need to go through and get rid of some parts but that will be in another thread.
  7. I believe they were unpainted aluminum. I've seen remanufactured ones that were flat/satin black. I painted mine silver
  8. You're a braver man than I. Love the short bumper though
  9. After the past 7 years of working for a graphic design and advertising firm (a job I got 2 weeks out of college) I'm leaving the company at the end of June. I don't have a regular job lined up; I'll be hopefully filling the space between with freelance graphic design and custom replica prop builds. I've worked for some of the bigger gaming companies out there (Valve, Bethesda, Irrational, Bioware) and hopefully I'll be able to float myself by making cool sci-fi guns for viral marketing and convention promotions.
  10. Almost too well. While running I'm getting 14.5-15V across the alternator. Now I just need to figure out whats draining my battery when I leave the car off (losing about .5V/day) and I'll be on to finally getting the engine tuned.
  11. Just an FYI to anyone else that stumbles across this thread in the future: LED bulbs WILL make it so that your alternator does not work, as the voltage they require to illuminate is one-directional. You might be able to use this to your advantage if you're running MS, like I am, as placing the LED the correct way will negate the need for a run-on diode to be placed in line with the alternator lead.
  12. Awesome, thanks for that link Tommy. Worse comes to worst, I guess I can just toss 12V switched/fused to that line and it will engage the alternator. Charging light won't work on the dash anymore, but I suppose I can live without that.
  13. Thanks for this Mike - I'm having the exact problem with my blinkers as well.
  14. I believe so, will check tonight to make sure. It does come on when running. By this statement, does that mean the alternator will not function if the gauge cluster is not plugged in? I did replace my cluster lights with LEDs, which will only be able to feed voltage in one direction. Sounds like a longshot, but do you guys think swapping back to an incandescent bulb will alleviate the issue?
  15. I have a Bosch 85A e30 alternator mounted in my car, which is currently not charging anything. With the engine running, the battery stays at whatever it startup voltage was - yesterday I checked and after starting, the car idled showing 11.4V Things I have checked: • Idle speed: I have revved the engine past 2,000 RPM in order to engage the internal voltage regulator. No dice. • Grounding: Recently added 4GA ground strap to alternator. No change. • Voltage: Shows battery level voltage at alternator, no voltage drop. • Blue wire: Checked continuity between blue wire at back of alternator and gauge pod plug. Wire checks on both ends with no breaks. • Voltage regulator: Old one removed and unplugged. Old leads snipped clean • Belt Tension: Good • Alternator: Brand new, not a junkyard find After tracing a few things on the schematic I found that the blue wire goes to the light on the gauge pod, which feeds to a wire going to the ignition switch and ultimately ending at the coil. My car has a MS & EDIS conversion, so all coil lines have been trimmed and capped off. Do I need to ground or run a connecting wire to switched 12V in order to turn on the voltage regulator on the alternator? Where does that blue wire actually go... and what should it be showing at idle? Thanks in advance.

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