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About 72Golf

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  1. Am I the only one to notice that this car must be somewhere in Europe? Look at all the license plates, this ain't Connecticut. What the hell do any of us here in the states know of values there? It would take an absolute moron to sell this car for $500, just looking at the grilles, kidney, turn signals, seats, wheels and steering wheel, I see an easy $1500 even selling to us tight asses here on the FAQ.
  2. My '73 is my primary drive since I moved from Minnesota to North Carolina in December. Here, the snows are polite and leave in a day or two and the roads clear off without salt in a few hours. Back in Minnesota it was another story as the roads were piled with salt and you could never get it off of your car. There, I parked all of my "classics" in the garage from Nov-May and drove a beater Ford Ranger in the winter. If you live where they salt the roads, park your '02 for the duration because they love to rust out.
  3. About two months ago, like a lot of us, I blew out the rubber seal on my Wix oil filter and dumped most of my oil on the ground. I rooted around in the trunk and found a new Fram filter and, being attracted to bright objects, I grabbed that one instead of the drab, black Mahle filter next to it. All was well until about two weeks ago when it started taking a long time (about 30 seconds) for my oil pressure to jump up and the oil light go out on a cold start. The pressure would go to about 1 Bar, then drop back down, then jump up to about 5 Bar and then operate normally, settling down as the engine warmed up to about 1 Bar at idle. Then, it started to drop below 1/2 Bar and the oil light would flicker at idle. WTF, I'm starting to have bad dreams of shot main bearings. I decided to swap out the Fram, thinking that maybe it got plugged up or something, a long shot but what the hell. Put in the Mahle and, damn, immediate pressure and nice 1.25 Bar idle at operating temp. again. That's it, I'm done being a cheap skate and never going to use anything but the Mahle filters from now on!
  4. Sounds great! What kind of quantities per tank? Full containers of salt and TB cleaner?
  5. Damn! Chrome those bumpers, dude!
  6. While getting ready to move south and get away from these Minnesota winters, I had to park the '02 outside for a couple days to pack up my spare parts. I went out to start it yesterday, 7 degrees and windy. Fired right up but I could hear this "squish" "squish" sound and I noticed the oil pressure was only about 1 Bar, then the oil light came on. Shut it down and opened the hood. Seal on the oil filter was pooched out and about 2 quarts of oil on the driveway. Not the most fun on Thanksgiving morning, cleaning up toothpaste viscosity oil and freezing my a$$ off. I run 10W-30 Valvoline racing oil but had a cheap (Wicks?) filter. Replaced with a Mahle filter and topped the oil off and all is well now. Why did this happen? Cheap filter? Thick oil? Damn cold?
  7. Just what you are looking for: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=280571510401&viewitem= Not mine, no affiliation, just happened to see it. Good hunting!
  8. Names. I have always named my cars. There's Sadie and Bennie, the Mercedes'; Butzi and Stu, the Porsches; Fritz, Dieter and Gert, the BMWs and then there's old Buzz, the Ford Ranger. Yes, I have a serious car Jones.
  9. I think Godzilla kicked a couple of these off the mountain.
  10. Pint of paint, quart of reducer and a few tablespoons of hardener.
  11. Nick, Glad to hear the girls are going to be fine. Send that girl to Nursing School, us old geezers need more like her!
  12. Pushing the horn button grounds the circuit that energizes the horn relay. When the relay energizes, a pair of contacts close supplying voltage to the horns and then to ground completing that circuit. Since the relay energizes, you need to check for voltage at the terminal #30, it should be a red wire and hot all the time. If you have voltage there, check for voltage at terminal 87 on the relay with the horn button pushed and the spade connector removed. If no voltage, relay is bad. If voltage is present, problem is between relay and horn, bad horn or no ground at horn. Got a meter?
  13. Depends. Let's say you have the test lead on the Neg. battery cable end in your hand (chassis ground still connected to body) and, say the light switch pulled on and you touch the other test lead to the appropriate fuse terminal at the fuse panel, you would read continuity. You have a complete path: thru fuse, thru switch, thru bulb filament to ground you are holding in your hand. If you get this with the switch off, you have a short between the fuse and the switch or switch is shorted.
  14. The only thing all events have in common is the headlight switch. I would suspect that sucker is shorting direct to ground. Get another one.

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