Mark92131

Looks like there was a Vin number at one time, just ground off. 1973 block with piano pistons and a replacement E12 head. @Conserv will know more. Mark92131

BMW E30 Steelies? Yes they will. Mark92131

I see some nice new rear subframe mounts, so in order to get those installed, the subframe needs to be dropped. This is not hard, but lots of opportunities for scope creep. At a minimum, you need to drop the muffler, undo the rear brake lines, pull the emergency brake cables, unbolt the drive shaft from the differential, disconnect the rear shocks, unbolt the differential hanger and undo the nuts holding the subframe mounts and straps. The whole rear subframe should drop down in one piece. After that, it is just a matter of how deep you want to go. New differential mounts? New trailing arm bushings? New rear brakes, (shoes, wheel cylinders, drums)? New flex brake lines? New emergency brake cables? New rear axle bearings? Paint or powder coat the subframe and trailing arms? New spring pads? New bump stops? Rebuild the CV joints (disassemble, clean, new grease, new boots)? Service the differential, (new rear gasket and seals, gear oil)? New sway bar bushings? If you get stuck, plenty of people here to help. Take pictures of your progress and have fun... Mark92131

Hopefully, someone has one of these in their parts stash. Yes, they are available new, but stupid money for what they are. Lots of parts to trade if you need something. Thanks for looking, Mark92131

I was in the process of installing the "original" steering shaft into the column so I could move it around the shop. When I pulled it to remove the subframe it was wearing a Nardi wooden steering wheel and the horn was not hooked up. I was planning to swap it out for a 320I Sport steering wheel, so I removed the Nardi and hub and tried to figure out what exactly I am dealing with. On the steering shaft, low to high, I have a circlip retaining ring, a cup, a spring, a washer/spacer, a frozen bearing/ring, and two canceling rings stacked on top of each other. There may be a snap ring between the washer/spacer and the frozen bearing/ring. but I can't get the frozen bearing/ring off to check. I did manage to get the bearing/ring to spin a little with effort, but it is pretty gummed up. How well should this bearing/ring spin? I think the only thing I am missing is the slip ring for the horn connection. The sport wheel has a carbon pin installed, so I am assuming I just need to find a slip ring, connect it to the horn wire and install the sports wheel. Does the slip ring just sit in the hole between the upper and lower steering column covers, or does it mount somehow? Thanks, Mark92131

I have a spare set, OEM in original packaging. Mark92131

Bottomline, both directions will work. I prefer the edges pointing towards the front of the car with the rubber bumper circled in red tucked up against the lip of the hood. Mark92131

Yes, the yellow seal edge points to the windshield, but the red tucks closer to the lip. Here's a picture. Although the second picture of the unmolested hood shows the red seal flipped over. Mark92131

I had same issue with white BMW clips. The passenger side of my car is messed up because I tried the jack nut fix for the white clips, didn't work. Ordered black clips from Maximillian before they went NLA. Haven't tried them with the MVP rocker trim yet. Watching this post for other ideas. Mark92131 A Proper Rocker WWW.MAXIMILLIANBLOG.COM Tired of your stainless rocker panel trim falling off? Don't want to install unsightly screws in the trim? Have you discovered that the white clips sold by BMW don't work effectively? We have the solution: CORRECT and original OEM clips to properly hold the shiny stuff to your rocker...

Paul, Isn't there a difference in the number of controls (3 vs 4) between old and new boxes? I believe the dash mounting for the control levers is different between the older and newer cars. Nothing you can't handle. Mark92131

It's complicated. A 1976 with a engine swap in CA typically requires the same class engine (# of cylinders) and include the appropriate emission equipment. Then you need to go to a referee center to pass a initial inspection where they determine if the motor you swapped in includes the appropriate emission equipment. If you pass this inspection, you need to pass a emission test based on the smog requirements for the donor engine, and if you pass that, you will receive a BAR Referee label for your engine compartment to permit testing every 2 years at your local smog station. Mark92131

When I installed my S14 into the front subframe, I originally used the square driver's side motor mount. The weight of the motor and trans when not supported seemed to twist this motor mount at the top. I swapped it out for the round one and the motor and trans would sit in the subframe without twisting. Unfortunately, viewing the pictures, I realized that I installed the metal cup backward with the metal top facing the subframe support. Just one more task in a sea of endless tasks. Also make sure that the stud fits on the driver's side subframe support will seat at the bottom of the slot. I welded in the IE bracket on the driver's side subframe support and it was preventing the stud from seating all the way down. A little work with a file fixed this issue. Mark92131

Thank you for your insight on getting this right. I ordered the alignment tool from @halboyles. The only other issue I may need to solve is the bolt on the back of the trans support rod is touching the driver's side trans mount. I may need to use a low profile Allen Head bolt and some trimming to get the clearance I need. Thanks again, Mark92131

Thanks Andrew, let's see what he comes up with. The dude's garage looks like a machine shop, lathe, mill, typical retired mechanical engineer. Best, Mark

OK, I installed my subframe with the S14 Motor and Getrag 245 transmission and found that the crossmember I was planning to use was to short to span the mounts (stock mounts that were cut off and moved back for the Getrag 245). So I will fabricate a new, longer crossmember, but had some questions on how to position the trans in the tunnel. Right now the trans sits on the driver's side of the tunnel. As I lift the back of the trans and push it up, I can shift it so it its more square to the tunnel. I am using the shifter kit from Blunt and the lower bracket for the support rod interferes with the position of the crossmember support mount, (the bolt head touches the mount). When the trans is square to the tunnel, the shift platform is on the extreme right side of the gear shift hole. In order to complete the assembly, I have some questions. I was told that the foam donut is installed inside the gear shift cup in early cars, is that correct? How close does the shift platform come to the top of the tunnel, touching or a few mm's lower? Does the gear shift sit in the middle of the hole, or can it be offset when the trans is centered in the tunnel? The PO was either using a modified 320i shift platform or an IE platform that doesn't use a support rod when welding the crossmember mounts. In order to avoid the lower bracket hitting the crossmember mount, I would need to shift the trans further to the passenger side, which may not be possible. Any thoughts? When the trans is centered in the tunnel, the shift platform is not sitting square with the top of the tunnel, is this problematic? When adjusting the length of the support rod, how tight should it be pulling on the shift platform and the bracket on the transmission? I need to have the trans sitting pretty high in the tunnel to avoid having the passenger side idler arm hit the S14 exhaust manifold while turning. I'm trying to avoid installing this wrong and have squeaks, rattles and buzzing once this motor fires. Could you take a look and provide some feedback? Thanks, Mark92131

So last blog post tracked the issues relating to the first test fit in the 1600 and a whole bunch of stuff that needed sorting after that test fit. As you may remember, the lips on the inside of the frame rail was preventing the S14 header and the steering box from clearing and lifting straight into the engine bay. So while I was waiting for the injectors to arrive from the UK, I decided to use my angle grinder to notch the inside lips of the frame rail. When you do this procedure, it requires you to weld the top of the frame rail back to the inside of the frame rail to insure a solid structural connection to the front subframe. I borrowed my brother and his welding equipment to complete this task. Not pretty, but structurally sound. The injectors from UK finally arrived and I went to work on removing the old injectors from a motor that has sat for quite a while. They did come out with some effort, but left some residue in the injector ports that I cleaned up with some Q-tips and acetone. I bought a new 3 Bar fuel regulator to replace the original one and cleaned and painted the fuel rail. Re-installing the new injectors was simple and straight forward with a little silicone grease on the o-rings to help slide them in place. Now the fun part, lets install the subframe for good. My brother came over for support. We installed some guide pins in the back bolt holes on the body, (bolts with the heads cut off and slotted for a screw driver), raised the body up, slid the motor and trans under the car, jacked up the motor and trans on the modified motor cycle jack until it was high enough to work under, and lowered the body down. The whole assembly passed straight between the notched frame rails and up into the engine compartment as we carefully guided the strut bearings into their holes. We locked down the strut bearings and continued lowering the body until the guide pins hit their holes in the subframe. We pulled the guide pins, replaced with bolts and washers and torqued the subframe bolts to 52 ft/lbs. The transmission mount turned out to be an issue. The 1600 had been modified by the PO for a Getrag 245, with the original transmission mounts cut out and moved back. The cross member I was using for the Getrag 245 turned out to be for a 320i and was too short to span the transmission mounts. I sent my brother home with the dimensions and he with fabricate a new cross member to fix this issue. Some other issues appeared during the motor install that will require so creative thinking. First is how the transmission sits in the tunnel. When you press the transmission up into the tunnel, should it be centered, or does it naturally sit to one side? Even with the transmission pressed all the way up into the tunnel, there appears to be a clearance issue with the passenger side idler arm and the S14 header. I also noticed that I have a clearance issue with where I placed the EDIS module on the firewall, it interferes with the vent hose connector on the valve cover, I'm going to need to put it somewhere else. Lots of work remains to finish the wiring, but with the subframe in I can finally take it off the lift and roll it around. Thanks for checking in! Mark92131

The fuel injector you referenced is designed for top-feed, but you have them mounted under the carbs? They also appear to be EV6 style. Would it be possible to machine your injector bungs to accept EV1 style injectors and then find the appropriate flow rate for your application? The longer EV1 injectors should protrude farther into the air flow and may help with your pooling issues. I am assuming the SDS ECU is driving High impedance injectors. So if you want 20lbs, maybe a Bosch 0-280-150-503 is a high impedance EV1 injector that will flow 20.15lbs at 3 bar. Lots of EV1 options to help you dial it in. Published Injector Data - Injector-Rehab INJECTOR-REHAB.COM Published Fuel Injector Data Just a thought. Mark92131

The support rod is part # 25111201238, you will need the support bracket on the Getrag 245, part # 23411466145. The Guibo bolts are M10 x 61, you can order a set from Wallothnesch or Belmetric. Mark92131 Rubber disc for prop shaft screw set for all models from 1969 up manual gearbox (set of 16 pieces all original yellow zinc plated) you need 1 for 1 car WWW.WALLOTHNESCH.COM Rubber disc for prop shaft screw set for all models from 1969 up manual gearbox (set of 16 pieces all original yellow zinc plated) you need 1 for 1 car Hex Bolts 12.9 M10X1.5 Coarse DIN 931/933 - BelMetric BELMETRIC.COM Bel-Metric sells metric hardware & specialty automotive supplies nationwide. Visit our website to purchase metric fasteners, nuts, bolts, Time-Sert kits & more.