Mark92131

The fuel injector you referenced is designed for top-feed, but you have them mounted under the carbs? They also appear to be EV6 style. Would it be possible to machine your injector bungs to accept EV1 style injectors and then find the appropriate flow rate for your application? The longer EV1 injectors should protrude farther into the air flow and may help with your pooling issues. I am assuming the SDS ECU is driving High impedance injectors. So if you want 20lbs, maybe a Bosch 0-280-150-503 is a high impedance EV1 injector that will flow 20.15lbs at 3 bar. Lots of EV1 options to help you dial it in. Published Injector Data - Injector-Rehab INJECTOR-REHAB.COM Published Fuel Injector Data Just a thought. Mark92131

The support rod is part # 25111201238, you will need the support bracket on the Getrag 245, part # 23411466145. The Guibo bolts are M10 x 61, you can order a set from Wallothnesch or Belmetric. Mark92131 Rubber disc for prop shaft screw set for all models from 1969 up manual gearbox (set of 16 pieces all original yellow zinc plated) you need 1 for 1 car WWW.WALLOTHNESCH.COM Rubber disc for prop shaft screw set for all models from 1969 up manual gearbox (set of 16 pieces all original yellow zinc plated) you need 1 for 1 car Hex Bolts 12.9 M10X1.5 Coarse DIN 931/933 - BelMetric BELMETRIC.COM Bel-Metric sells metric hardware & specialty automotive supplies nationwide. Visit our website to purchase metric fasteners, nuts, bolts, Time-Sert kits & more.

The slave cylinder should have a hose connection that runs to the brake fluid reservoir and a threaded bleed nipple. The click sounds like it is coming from the slave cylinder push rod action, you can see it hitch as it retracks into the slave cylinder. Not a lot of maintenance beyond cleaning and lubricating the push rod and connections. Mark92131

Those stickers are very hard to duplicate. They have tamper proof perforations and feature the manufacturing date and VIN Number. You might try searching the FAQ. I remember someone duplicating these with fake perforations. Mark92131

Here's my writeup on the MVP Rear Bumper install. I can't comment on the BMW2002Stainless set. Mark92131

1968 BMW 1600 US Model Mark92131

Maybe save this one... Mark92131

Bill Holmes of Bavarian Rennsport in Ramona, CA would modify the K-Fish pump for people looking to use performance Cams in the 2002 Tii. Don't know if he is still offering this service, but maybe worth contacting. Mark92131 14054 Mussey Grade, Ramona,, CA, us. (760) 789-2002

La Jolla Independent used to carry these. You could e-mail Carl Nelson and see if he has an ETA for more. Mark92131 2002 tii Fuel Injector Tube Set | La Jolla Independent WWW.BIMMERDOC.COM Currently out of stock, please email to reserve a set in advance. Complete set of four (4) fuel injection tubes for your 2002 tii.

Wrong valve cover, that one is for a carb. The Tii cover has a short breather connection. Mark92131

It's all a matter of how you plan to balance the subframe and motor on the jack. Most, I believe, jack up the car, slide the subframe and motor under the car, then use a cherry picker to lift the subframe into position. If you don't have a cherry picker, maybe use a 2x4 across the front strut support and a couple of straps to help support the motor and subframe while you jack it up. Best to have beer drinking friends over for this procedure. Another useful trick is to cut the heads off a couple of M10 bolts, slot the ends for a screw driver and install them in the car's body to act as guide pins for aligning the subframe. Mark92131

With the bare subframe sitting on the floor with the engine installed using stock motor mounts, the distance from the bottom of the subframe to the top of the valve cover is approximately 24.25 inches (+/- .5 inches). What clearance are you concerned about? The main issue with those weld-in reinforcement plates is cutting them so the plate doesn't interfere with the nut and threads for the driver's side motor mount and welding them in so the motor mount stud can sit all the way down in the subframe notch. Mark92131

Yes, +1 on the MVP Gas Tank from IE. Here's a write-up on the installation on my Blog. Installed an E30 318IS Fuel Pump in mine, fit and finish was very good. Mark92131

No worries, you'll find one... Mark92131

You want the top one connected to your advance pod (ported vacuum above the throttle plates), the lower one is manifold vacuum. Ported vacuum doesn't pull vacuum at idle, manifold vacuum pulls vacuum idle to WOT. So at idle with ported vacuum, you are running static timing (no vacuum advance). If you switch to manifold vacuum, (the lower fitting) you will be running static timing + whatever advance is produced by the manifold vacuum at idle. This all assumes that you have removed the distributor cap, wrapped your lips around the hose connected to distributor advance pod, sucked really hard and verified the points plate moved. Otherwise, bad distributor advance pod and your distributor is only running static advance. Mark92131

I have 3 used ones on my desk, a little crusty but would clean up with some elbow grease. Mark92131

So, after sorting out the S14 flywheel, clutch, pressure plate clearance issue with the Getrag 245 transmission debacle, I decided that it would be wise to test fit the motor/trans and subframe installation and see if any adjustments would be needed. Well, turns out adjustments are needed. First off, while lifting the subframe, motor and trans on the motor jack while subsequently lowering the car it turns out that S14 header and the steering box hang-up on the inside lip of the frame rails on both sides. Now I could have suspended the motor from the top with the engine hoist and tilted the whole assembly to clear the frame rail lip, but it might be easier to just trim the lip on both sides to clear these components. So that is my plan going forward. I reached out to @jimk with some questions on how he was running his coolant lines without the stock reservoir and he provided the answers I needed to make the conversion. Basically, you need to remove the pipe that primes the water pump from the reservoir and replace the hose from the thermostat to the water pump with a straight hose (like the 2002). The 8mm hose that runs from the back of the head to the reservoir needs to be rerouted by removing the pipe that runs to the back of the head and adding a hose from the fitting at the front of the head to the radiator. He also provided his schematics for the custom radiator he designed and built to provide the fittings needed for this change. I sent an inquiry to C&R Racing to build the same radiator for my installation but $1,249 was beyond my budget. My original plan was to run a BMW 320i radiator for cooling, but with plastic tanks and no way to run the 8mm line to the radiator, this was going to be a problem. On a whim, I sent a message to an E-Bay manufacturer in China (winner_racing_radiator) that builds aluminum radiators for the BMW 2002. Their stock BMW 2002 dimensions are way off and in some cases too thick for the S14 conversion. I asked if they could do a custom radiator and they said yes, they could build me a custom radiator and ship it to my door (DHL) for $350. OK, lets take a chance! So I started measuring the radiator support opening, original mounting holes, top of the radiator support, thickness target, and connections and bungs required to build a custom radiator and produced a drawing for them to use. The only thing we changed during production was the fitting for the head drain (moved to the filler neck) and the height of the top tank (reduced to 60mm) so we could use a larger core. The BMW 320i radiator originally had an electric fan attached directly to the radiator using a zip tie kit. While waiting for the new radiator to arrive, I fabricated a more elegant solution for mounting the fan using a couple of strips of 3/4" aluminum stock. The radiator arrived today and I did some test fitting. Everything lines up exactly as expected. I elected to not have the manufacturer drill the mounting holes so I could finalize placement, but it seems to fit perfectly. I'll report back when this engine has fired for feedback on any cooling issues I experience. When I was removing the 8mm pipe to the back of the head, I noticed that it looked like the stock injectors were installed. A little creative camera work confirmed this fact. I did some research on the specs for the stock and injectors and their use with aftermarket ECU's. Turns out that MicroSquirt has 2 injector drivers, each capable of driving 1 Low Impedance injector or 4 High Impedance injectors. The stock injectors are Low Impedance, so they need to be replaced with High Impedance replacements with similar flow characteristics. I went through the Bosch catalog and came up with multiple high impedance injectors that flowed near 240CC/MIN. Lots of these were super expensive or out of stock. I eventually ended up with new 0 280 150 728 Blue Tops that I ordered from AutoFirma in the UK at just over $27 each. Here's the specs... PART NUMBER: 0280150728 BLUE TOP. INJECTOR BODY: METAL & COMPOSITE PLASTIC WITH FACTORY FITTED UPPER AND LOWER O-RING SEALS. DESIGN: BOSCH EV1 STATIC FLOW RATE: 24LB/HR @ 43.5PSI OR 248CC/MIN @ 3.0 BAR ELECTRICAL CONNECTOR: EV1 2 PIN. LENGTH: 3 inches, 74 mm DIAMETER: 24 mm O RINGS: Top and bottom, 14.5 mm RESISTANCE: 14.5 Ohms/HIGH IMPEDANCE FILTER DESIGN: BASKET FILTER AT INLET Lot's of work remaining, but making progress. Thanks for checking in. Mark92131

John: In the first picture, it looks like the vacuum advance pod is clocked to the back on the distributor and I can't tell if it is hooked up. It does appear that it is running a Pertronix module or some variation. Santawillis: That fuel filter should be on the line before the pump, to keep crap from entering the pump. Those fuel filters only partially fill, so what you are observing may be normal operation. It is always a good idea to insure you are getting fuel from the tank to the carb without any restriction, so checking this is a good idea. I would also check the operation of your ignition. The advance pod on your distributor should be connected to the vacuum advance port above the base of your Weber carb facing the passenger fender. You can test the vacuum advance pod by pulling the distributor cap and sucking on the hose attached to the pod, the points plate should move slightly. If you have a timing light with advance feature, verify the degrees of advance at idle, 1000, 1500, 2000, 2500, 3000 RPM and report your findings. If you don't have a timing light with advance, set the RPM to 1500, stick the timing light down the flywheel viewing port and turn the distributor back and forth until you can see the flywheel "Ball" in the viewing port (25 degrees BTDC). Lock the distributor down and use the timing light to observe the timing marks on the front pulley at 1500 RPM. Increase the RPMs to 3000 and you should observe the timing mark change at the front pulley, this means your ignition is advancing properly beyond 25 degrees BTDC and should be all in at 3000 RPM. I suspect there may be a few things pulling down your performance (sticking caliper, vacuum leaks, clogged fuel delivery, ignition issues, jetting, etc.) but all these are cheap fixes that we can help you with. Part of the fun of 2002 ownership. Mark92131 P.S. I used to sail against SDYC back in the day, never saw that car in the parking lot.